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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: East Coast USA
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Paul,
Thanks for the links! Very interesting read... I think I may try this sequence of events in order to experiment (well, until I change my mind - which might be an hour from now, three days from now, or basically at any time until I've actually built something 1. Build a baffle of approximately 12.5" by 40". Stuff the Vifa 8" and Vifa tweeter recommended by Linkwitz into the top. Near the midsection, put in the Peerless CSC-X 10" driver. See what happens (i.e. measure, measure, measure - correct, correct, correct - using active circuitry to tweek the thing - notch filters, various slope, low freq. extension, etc. - this is stuff I can actually do and enjoy - measuring speaker enclosures, etc. is dreary stuff to me because it smells like too much math 2. If more low end is required, add another CSC-X driver and adjust the amplification available (still have room on the large baffle mentioned above)... 3. If still unsatisfactory - replace second CSC-X with Peerless XLS and retest and align.......... 4. Depending on the outcome of (3) above - consider enclosing the subwoofer section (still easy because of the open baffle) and test various enclosure volumes, sealed vs. ported, etc. 5. If we've gotten this far and still don't have something reasonable - start perusing the adverts for used Quad, Magnapans, etc. - and stock up on beer before the bank account is depleted - i.e..............DONE!!!!..... I think eventually I'll just get started with the experiments instead of trying to analyze it all to death... Regards, Bill |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well, I sent the Email off to Parts Express about the Vifas. Unfortunately, they do not carry Capslock's M25WO47.
I sent off to ask about the symmetrical magnetic system for the following woofers: P21WO-20 MG22W009-08 TC18WG49-08 I must admit that it doesn't look good for any of these having a shorting ring or an extnded pole piece, the way a symmetrical magnetic field is achieved. The reason is that as I looked at the Parts Express website, only the XT line mentioned anything like "a low distortion optimized motor system", which sure sounds like a symmetrical magnetic field. However, the XT line starts at around $100 for an 8" woofer-more expensive than the other Vifas. I'll let you know if Parts Express responds.
__________________
"A friend will help you move. A really good friend will help you move a body." -Anonymous |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Bill,
I have two suggestions. Instead of the CSX, use the Peerless 831857 - it is only slightly more expensive and as a 12" driver won't have to work as hard as the 10" CSX. A single CSX works in a smaller vented box than the 12" but for dipole use I'd go the 12. Also I would use 2 in push pull mode as this gives lower distortion. Otherwise I think your output with one CSX in open baffle operation will be marginal, personally I wouldn't even try it. Yes the XLS does have more output but it is also twice the price, for not much more output. Happy experimenting cheers, Paul
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AUDIO BLOG | Bass integration guide My work: www.redspade.com.au web design studio |
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#14 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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For a pr of cheap subs have a look at the ApexJr 8" Subwoofer and the OEM VIFA 8" that steve has at ApexJr.
And for really Frugal-phile(tm) set of woofers nothing works as well as a set of 10 or 12" extended range drivers salvaged out of a set of dirt-cheap thrift store specials -- find some older ones where the surrounds aren't foam and you often find something decent (i've a growing collection of Corals & Fosters) dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Denmark
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Planet10, slightly OT
The drivers on the left picture, thats a coral 12L60 or something, i might have a pair lying around in the basement somewhere. Had them 15 years ago in a 125L ported enclosure giving lots of rumble. Have u tried to do anything with them yet ? cheers Andreas |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Germany
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Stay away from the Peerless CC-260 woofer, much higher distortion than the CSX257. Only advantage is a porous dustcap that lowers wind noise, but has other side effects.
I believe the current version of the Vifas is M25WO49. There were various versions over the last couple of years with essentially the same parameters. Only difference I could find was dustcap design. I am not saying they are the perfect dipole woofer driver, but if you can get them cheaply, they will do a pretty good job. Eric |
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#17 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Canada
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I have built 2 isobarik subs using the above in iso-barik config in a bass reflex 75 liters box, I ended up with an F3 at about 23 hz and clean output up to 97 db which is pretty good. Awsome with music, drawbacks are they can bottom on HT, Am using Peerless 10 inch XLS with passive in a 1 cu ft box for HT, F3 of abour 32 Hz but a lot more punch.
Cheers Dan
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HifiDan |
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