I've spent many hours reading up on the sonotube and transmission lines in general. Like most things DIY and hi-fi, there are many variants on how to do it "right." A given speaker sounds fine to person A, sounds like crap to B. Speaking of just the simplest tube speakers (that is, those that are only the subwoofer stuck in the end of a straight pipe, possibly with a floor base), I have seen few, maybe none that used the Bose Cannon formula: driver 1/4 of the way in, or two tubes one L = wavelength/4 and the short one L/3, depending on how you look at it. I think I understand the basic idea behind the simple 1/4 wave tube, but have yet to grasp what the "short" tube does for you.
I am still sourcing materials. I have found a local "hose" supplier (Tampa) that will sell in small quantities. Once woofer is in hand, I will visit store and see what kinds of hose it jams into best. I will probably go for the thickest but still flexible tubing. Of course it all comes down to cost; if not a huge difference I will try the hose (16' total), other wise it's the Sonotube (12' and 4') or equivalent.
I am still sourcing materials. I have found a local "hose" supplier (Tampa) that will sell in small quantities. Once woofer is in hand, I will visit store and see what kinds of hose it jams into best. I will probably go for the thickest but still flexible tubing. Of course it all comes down to cost; if not a huge difference I will try the hose (16' total), other wise it's the Sonotube (12' and 4') or equivalent.
At a time when 'subs' typically only existed as basement IBs in extreme horn systems to handle the few RTR tapes with < ~42 Hz output, my 16 ft BP-TL 'sonic cannon' occasionally got me a 'disturbing the peace' visit and it only had a high Qts 8", so I often wonder how some folks can play action movies at > THX reference without incurring a similar response because for sure that 8" was loud, but not >115 dB/listening position loud and didn't get within 1-2 octaves of their bottom end simply because there was no signal below ~27 Hz.
GM
GM
Car subs broadcasting over several square city blocks have raised the threshold considerably.
It is interesting to think that a "performance" automobile sound system may have as much power as the Hanley sound system (using similar speakers as your avatar) that provided sound for nearly half a million people at Woodstock '69.
More on hose for the enclosure.
Hardly original, but it seems fairly unexplored territory using pipe, especially flexible material, in making a speaker system. Maybe there is some kind of losses in flexing of the "box" or maybe it is just a visual horror.
Lots of men are justifiably proud of building stuff out of wood. For me, even the termites eating the dead guts of a eucalyptus (future diggeridoo) will make a better product than I could.
And my time is a piece of wax, fallin' on a termite
That's chokin on the splinters
-- Beck, "Loser"
Maybe I can advance the art of making stuff that makes sound that requires no cellulose.
Why not a full range driver in a tube, sized to the right Fs? If tube is flexible then shape tube to taste and perhaps glue in position.
But what do you expect? I have sank so far into the cessspool of audio dereliction that I often try to make my purchases of old Bose 901s coincide with my travels, so I can pick up and save on shipping. In my own defense, I once did that for quality (Conrad Johnson amp) but that was years ago before the dark side won me over
Hardly original, but it seems fairly unexplored territory using pipe, especially flexible material, in making a speaker system. Maybe there is some kind of losses in flexing of the "box" or maybe it is just a visual horror.
Lots of men are justifiably proud of building stuff out of wood. For me, even the termites eating the dead guts of a eucalyptus (future diggeridoo) will make a better product than I could.
And my time is a piece of wax, fallin' on a termite
That's chokin on the splinters
-- Beck, "Loser"
Maybe I can advance the art of making stuff that makes sound that requires no cellulose.
Why not a full range driver in a tube, sized to the right Fs? If tube is flexible then shape tube to taste and perhaps glue in position.
But what do you expect? I have sank so far into the cessspool of audio dereliction that I often try to make my purchases of old Bose 901s coincide with my travels, so I can pick up and save on shipping. In my own defense, I once did that for quality (Conrad Johnson amp) but that was years ago before the dark side won me over
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Soldermizer (-: I read your iNuke posts in another thread along with all of the ummm... "subtle" "hall monitor" tweaking. Much, much, much humor 
You sir are part of a dying breed. I will come out and say it. Real men. .......who are not scared. Welcome to Amerika my new friend and indeed and sadly, I probably will see you in camp. We will no doubt be building something incorrectly, from parts available. Something needed desperately, while being watched helplessly.
On topic that sounds to me like a very viable "30 minute" extremely powerful sub. Gorilla tape, some kind of huge tube and Hornresp to model and a saw to tune, start long and too low test with sweep to verify audibly and cut till you have the half octave you are looking for. Bozo already did this humongous "flute" sub as you know and hell yes it works.
You sir are part of a dying breed. I will come out and say it. Real men. .......who are not scared. Welcome to Amerika my new friend and indeed and sadly, I probably will see you in camp. We will no doubt be building something incorrectly, from parts available. Something needed desperately, while being watched helplessly. On topic that sounds to me like a very viable "30 minute" extremely powerful sub. Gorilla tape, some kind of huge tube and Hornresp to model and a saw to tune, start long and too low test with sweep to verify audibly and cut till you have the half octave you are looking for. Bozo already did this humongous "flute" sub as you know and hell yes it works.
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Hmmm....
Here is a possible full range
4-1/2" Replacement Speaker Full Range, Mid Range, Paper Cone, Foam Edge, 8 Ohm
Quarter wave of Fs very close to 36"
Might go to what, maybe 60 Hz.
Here is a possible full range
4-1/2" Replacement Speaker Full Range, Mid Range, Paper Cone, Foam Edge, 8 Ohm
Quarter wave of Fs very close to 36"
Might go to what, maybe 60 Hz.
Flexible pipe design has been mostly limited to ‘sub’ duty venting AFAIK, but probably worth pursuing with high Qt drivers since a lossy cab will damp its 'ringing', though tuning to Fs isn't a good plan IME unless driven with a high output impedance.
Rigid tubes OTOH are actually well explored both DIY and commercially; you apparently missed the cardboard tube ‘craze’ of the ‘90s – early 2000s that was triggered by Hsu Research’s inexpensive Sonotube sub, though me and some others have been using them since at least the mid ‘60s and at least one manufacturer was using them for TL loading a small ‘FR’ driver in a two way back in the ‘50s, which is where I learned of it, though at this late date I don’t remember which brand and/or model.
Glued up drain pipe pieces is the most popular though since it’s so easy.
GM
Cool! I will continue to "source" the tube (or hose) for my 12" sub build ... your info is a validation of "try flexible" unless cost is too much. Yes, I did miss the cheap tube sub craze, which is amazing because (1) I'm cheap and (2) I would do something like that. I didn't fall into the "rabbit hole" of online audio porn until the early 2000's, perhaps that is why I missed it.
I'll admit I'm confused on the output impedance/Fs thing...this is an aspect of electronics I don't understand much. In any case, I am "immune" to too much theory, as I freely admit that I am just an experimenter, a dabbler really.
Here is a link to how NOT to be a carpenter. On YouTube just enter "Mad TV Paul Timberman":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKX1orBiaCI&list=PL44A8FF39BE3A2115
I am attracted to the tube sub idea because it is the rare "speaker" project that requires absolutelly no wood-working skills. That well suits someone like me who has few tools and fewer skills. For those of more talent, go ahead a whittle a ten-foot totem pole for your full range TL or whatever. For the klutz like me, there is duct tape. In a pinch I know people who can cut wood without risking my own fingers
I'll admit I'm confused on the output impedance/Fs thing...this is an aspect of electronics I don't understand much. In any case, I am "immune" to too much theory, as I freely admit that I am just an experimenter, a dabbler really.
Here is a link to how NOT to be a carpenter. On YouTube just enter "Mad TV Paul Timberman":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKX1orBiaCI&list=PL44A8FF39BE3A2115
I am attracted to the tube sub idea because it is the rare "speaker" project that requires absolutelly no wood-working skills. That well suits someone like me who has few tools and fewer skills. For those of more talent, go ahead a whittle a ten-foot totem pole for your full range TL or whatever. For the klutz like me, there is duct tape. In a pinch I know people who can cut wood without risking my own fingers
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Since it was primarily just sub systems, you would have had to frequent home theater forums since subs weren't, and to a great extent still aren't, considered necessary [not to mention worth the extra cost/complexity] for HIFI apps.
It’s only been in the past decade since the advent of ultra high power handling drivers that can be digitally EQ’d flat in room down into the infra-bass in acoustically tiny cabs, and more recently, tapped TL/horn DIY design that tube subs have finally fallen out of favor, though there may still be one ‘early adopter’ ‘DIY turned consumer brand’ using them.
For those of us who want to hear/feel all of what's on our recordings though, especial the pipe organ ones, they are mandatory.
'Dabbling' is an OK hobby, but usually leaves one 'wanting', as it did for me. For sure, those of us not formally educated in the physical sciences can make learning speaker design a confusing and even counterintuitive endeavor, but ‘scratch designing’ good overall performing TLs/horns will probably evade you until you can 'come to grips' with at least the basics of resonant pipe theory and how a sound reproduction system interacts with it.
GM
It’s only been in the past decade since the advent of ultra high power handling drivers that can be digitally EQ’d flat in room down into the infra-bass in acoustically tiny cabs, and more recently, tapped TL/horn DIY design that tube subs have finally fallen out of favor, though there may still be one ‘early adopter’ ‘DIY turned consumer brand’ using them.
For those of us who want to hear/feel all of what's on our recordings though, especial the pipe organ ones, they are mandatory.
'Dabbling' is an OK hobby, but usually leaves one 'wanting', as it did for me. For sure, those of us not formally educated in the physical sciences can make learning speaker design a confusing and even counterintuitive endeavor, but ‘scratch designing’ good overall performing TLs/horns will probably evade you until you can 'come to grips' with at least the basics of resonant pipe theory and how a sound reproduction system interacts with it.
GM
Toys have arrived.
Friday the Sonotube was picked up. Managed to make it home (~20 miles) without dumping it on the highway, despite my negligible rope-tying skills. (Hint: duct tape to the rescue.)
Saturday: How to affix the subwoofer to the end? Lacking any carpentry skills and most tools (the only "router" in my home is the wi-fi kind), I settled on 5-min. Epoxy. The tube was placed vertically outside (the only place it would fit as such), duct taped to the gutter to keep it mostly level, and then I placed the ladder next to it. I mixed the Epoxy and glued woofer to end of tube. 1st attempt fell off (in the grass fortunately). 2nd seems to be secure.
With girlfriend's help, moved it inside. Hooked it up w/o any x-over at first, via the NU3000. It does work, but not enough volume (my preamp doesn't drive the amp hard enough).
Still to check: any air leaks around the driver? Hook up via my x-over (MiniDSP 2x4). How to incorporate a 12-foot cardboard tube into a bedroom's decor (ok, that one is probably impossible.)
Friday the Sonotube was picked up. Managed to make it home (~20 miles) without dumping it on the highway, despite my negligible rope-tying skills. (Hint: duct tape to the rescue.)
Saturday: How to affix the subwoofer to the end? Lacking any carpentry skills and most tools (the only "router" in my home is the wi-fi kind), I settled on 5-min. Epoxy. The tube was placed vertically outside (the only place it would fit as such), duct taped to the gutter to keep it mostly level, and then I placed the ladder next to it. I mixed the Epoxy and glued woofer to end of tube. 1st attempt fell off (in the grass fortunately). 2nd seems to be secure.
With girlfriend's help, moved it inside. Hooked it up w/o any x-over at first, via the NU3000. It does work, but not enough volume (my preamp doesn't drive the amp hard enough).
Still to check: any air leaks around the driver? Hook up via my x-over (MiniDSP 2x4). How to incorporate a 12-foot cardboard tube into a bedroom's decor (ok, that one is probably impossible.)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or a video.
Here. Incredibly well written papers, and very easy to grasp. Truly everything that one needs to know to play with this with more than a clue. My job as a tech writer was to make the difficult to understand easier. This man almost makes relatively complex physics simple. I'm in awe of these papers.
Horn Theory
Horn Theory
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