I am building a sub for a friend of mine who is putting in a home theatre. The room is 26/14/9 and he has installed Dayton in walls for a 5.1 system. I have a Dayton RS315HF-4 for the driver and a bash 300 amp. I need opinions on what size enclosure i should use to sound the best with his HT. Also would you go sealed or vented?
3cuft is about right for vented. F3=23Hz
You can go for a 3cuft Closed Box if you don't mind a higher F3=36Hz.
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Hi, guys.
It's my first impression that Dayton Audio 12" woofer RSS315HF-4 is well adapted for a sealed sub enclosure with that mentioned amp. (Just as a side note the 400W max. can not take the woofer to max excursion in a BR that would need close to min. power ~900/1000W@4/3.6 Ohms). This combo amp+driver (sealed) is just perfect. I would probably start with a sealed ~100L/90L(QTC = 0.707) enclosure, as was referenced (85L) in the previous post.
100L = 3.5315ft³
85L = 3.0017ft³ (Michael Chua)
The VB ~120 L/FB ~ 22.0 Hz for a BR, low tunning frequency and monstrous enclosure (you have to add here to the net int. vol. all the space for the big vents and all) doesn't make it a good BR practical candidate, instead it's good performance and low F-3 dB=20 Hz. The problem is again is the power RMS needed for such a monster Pmin. 698.2 W@4.2 Ohms to 818.3 W@3.6 Ohms (22/164.3 Hz), for it's max.excursion, when 400W is the spec RMS and amp specs (Bash 300W) are "300 watts RMS @ 0.5% THD into 4 ohm load".
A quarter wave is also a great performer for this driver.
It's my first impression that Dayton Audio 12" woofer RSS315HF-4 is well adapted for a sealed sub enclosure with that mentioned amp. (Just as a side note the 400W max. can not take the woofer to max excursion in a BR that would need close to min. power ~900/1000W@4/3.6 Ohms). This combo amp+driver (sealed) is just perfect. I would probably start with a sealed ~100L/90L(QTC = 0.707) enclosure, as was referenced (85L) in the previous post.
100L = 3.5315ft³
85L = 3.0017ft³ (Michael Chua)
The VB ~120 L/FB ~ 22.0 Hz for a BR, low tunning frequency and monstrous enclosure (you have to add here to the net int. vol. all the space for the big vents and all) doesn't make it a good BR practical candidate, instead it's good performance and low F-3 dB=20 Hz. The problem is again is the power RMS needed for such a monster Pmin. 698.2 W@4.2 Ohms to 818.3 W@3.6 Ohms (22/164.3 Hz), for it's max.excursion, when 400W is the spec RMS and amp specs (Bash 300W) are "300 watts RMS @ 0.5% THD into 4 ohm load".
A quarter wave is also a great performer for this driver.
Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm - Subwoofers - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components
Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm High Fidelity Reference Series 295-464
Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier 300-750
Dayton RSS315HF-4 in passive mode link:
Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" (2) PRs and Bash 500 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm High Fidelity Reference Series 295-464
Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier 300-750
Dayton RSS315HF-4 in passive mode link:
Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" (2) PRs and Bash 500 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
Thanks for all the posts guys. I am starting the build this weekend and am going to do a 3.5cu ft ported with 2x3" ports. I am having a carpenter build the box as it is going to be disguised as an end table type thing and painted to match the existing cabinetry. I will post some pics when i have them.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Before you go too much further- has your friend considered infinite baffles?
Zalytron has their woofers on sale, the 1201PL is $99.... for a case of 12, solid 12" woofers. They would work nicely in an infinite baffle (in-wall) setup, with 8 of them, you would never be wanting for output or power handling.
Zalytron has their woofers on sale, the 1201PL is $99.... for a case of 12, solid 12" woofers. They would work nicely in an infinite baffle (in-wall) setup, with 8 of them, you would never be wanting for output or power handling.
You may want to ensure the box is sufficiently braced and the joints are well sealed.
My friend is too concerned about looks and wants the cabinet to match her built ins as much as possible. Nice idea though. Thanks.
I am going to install a number of of cross braces and seal the inside of the cabinet with silicon before closing. I thought I would leave.the bottom panel accessible for the future using a gasket and screws. This would make port adjustments easier.
My friend is too concerned about looks and wants the cabinet to match her built ins as much as possible. Nice idea though. Thanks.
Sorry I wasn't clear enough. What I meant was the join itself. Carpenters may not be aware of what's important in a loudspeaker box. You want all the joins to be tight. Simple lap joins with biscuits, a liberal spread of Titebond and clamping will give sufficient strength in the joins. After that, you can line the inside with silicon.
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