Compact and Efficient Portable Subwoofer

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a 24" x 18" x 18" cabinet would be ideal. Small and portable.

this will give me 3.84 cu. ft. internal if I use 1/2 inch Birch ply.

subtracting for basket and port etc. I could end up with around 3.2 cu. ft.

a 3.2 cab tuned to 48hz will give me a flat response down to an F3 around 44hz.

Not bad for a small cab. What do you think? SPL would be good with 200 watts?

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according to my calculations I should be able to get around 115db/1M with only 150 WATTS.

Not bad for a $100 woofer and a $125 amp in a small vented box.

I might as well get the 300 WATT amp for $20 more. The driver can handle 500 watts RMS.

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according to my calculations I should be able to get around 115db/1M with only 150 WATTS.

Not bad for a $100 woofer and a $125 amp in a small vented box.

I might as well get the 300 WATT amp for $20 more. The driver can handle 500 watts RMS.

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My spreadsheet shows the driver running out of excursion a bit over 100W with that alignment, but my spreadsheet does tend to be a bit conservative in its predictions.

Looks like a good simple design that should deliver as expected.
 
a 24" x 18" x 18" cabinet would be ideal. Small and portable.

this will give me 3.84 cu. ft. internal if I use 1/2 inch Birch ply.

subtracting for basket and port etc. I could end up with around 3.2 cu. ft.

a 3.2 cab tuned to 48hz will give me a flat response down to an F3 around 44hz.

Not bad for a small cab. What do you think? SPL would be good with 200 watts?

>

I think you're underestimating how effective a 1000w generator is. A honda eu2000 was enough to power my system to full output - a nu6000dsp, adcom gfa-555 (class A/B), plus the dj's traktor rig. You should have no problem with a ~1000-1500w single sub amp and a 200w/ch stereo class-d amp for the tops on a 1000w generator. I would think a long throw neo 15" or even a 18" would possible in that size box, although considerably more expensive.

I did model the 12lfc extensively and agree it has an excellent combination of sensitivity, extension, box size, weight, and price, but with fairly limited output/excursion.

For outdoor use, I would recommend a peaking response above tuning as opposed to flat, since there is no room gain.

Also, that duracell generator is crap. Seriously consider spending the $$$ on a honda eu series.
 
according to my calculations I should be able to get around 115db/1M with only 150 WATTS.

Not bad for a $100 woofer and a $125 amp in a small vented box.

I might as well get the 300 WATT amp for $20 more. The driver can handle 500 watts RMS.

>

Note that Eminence recommends a smaller box with higher Fb, likely for better power handling through the passband.
 
Keep in mind the weight and how serious you and your friends are about moving them around. My subs are 55 lb each (24lb driver, 31lb 1/2" ply cabinet w/hardware), comfortable 2 hand carry, and I've carried them 100 yards or up 3 flights of stairs, but wouldn't want to do any more than that. I'm very glad I didn't use 3/4" ply and that they don't weigh 70 lb.

Having a 10lb neo driver in a 25lb box would make a really easy to carry 35lb package, or you could cram a neo 18" into your box size and still have it easily come in under 70 lb. Or anywhere in between.
 
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I think you're underestimating how effective a 1000w generator is. A honda eu2000 was enough to power my system to full output - a nu6000dsp, adcom gfa-555 (class A/B), plus the dj's traktor rig. You should have no problem with a ~1000-1500w single sub amp and a 200w/ch stereo class-d amp for the tops on a 1000w generator. I would think a long throw neo 15" or even a 18" would possible in that size box, although considerably more expensive.

I did model the 12lfc extensively and agree it has an excellent combination of sensitivity, extension, box size, weight, and price, but with fairly limited output/excursion.

For outdoor use, I would recommend a peaking response above tuning as opposed to flat, since there is no room gain.

Also, that duracell generator is crap. Seriously consider spending the $$$ on a honda eu series.

So a peaking response would be better outdoors? Why can't I try to keep it even?

I threw out the Duracell generator as an example. I'm sure it can handle my setup. 120-150 watts for the sub, 75-100 watts x 2 for the tops, 75 watts for DJ equipment and maybe a couple 40 watt lights = 505 watts total.

I'm luck to have a friend that rents out Honda generators and I can rent any of them for free.
 
Keep in mind the weight and how serious you and your friends are about moving them around. My subs are 55 lb each (24lb driver, 31lb 1/2" ply cabinet w/hardware), comfortable 2 hand carry, and I've carried them 100 yards or up 3 flights of stairs, but wouldn't want to do any more than that. I'm very glad I didn't use 3/4" ply and that they don't weigh 70 lb.

Having a 10lb neo driver in a 25lb box would make a really easy to carry 35lb package, or you could cram a neo 18" into your box size and still have it easily come in under 70 lb. Or anywhere in between.

that Eminence 12" driver weighs 14 lbs. The 300 watt amp weighs 4 lbs. The 1/2 inch plywood around 25 lbs. Should come in around 43 lbs.

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Bump. I briefly reviewed my old models and it may be worth checking out the Eminence Eminator 2512, it is very similar to the 12LFC, but will play slightly lower in a smaller box, with a nice rising response.

Eminence Eminator 2512 12" High Power Car Subwoofer 4 Ohm 290-705

I personally like the rising response around tuning outdoors because there is no room gain helping you out, and it's nice to get that extra put of output in the low end naturally with the box vs. eating up headroom trying to boost it. Indoors it seems to be fine too after placement, nodes, etc. Also at max output there is usually port compression around tuning so that cuts some of the peak.
 
~$10 cheaper 290-466
 

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