Subwoofer project using a 12" Peerless 835017 (or better) - diyAudio
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Old 2nd May 2013, 05:20 AM   #1
shmb is offline shmb  Australia
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Default Subwoofer project using a 12" Peerless 835017 (or better)

Hi all,

I'm looking to possibly take on a subwoofer project. Nothing special, just a standard vented design.

I'm currently looking seriously at the Peerless 835017 12" driver.

There are 2 different datasheet links below on this driver which vary a little in T/S parameters for some reason.
http://www.tymphany.com/files/XXLS-P...0Rev%201_0.pdf
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-1114s.pdf

Basically, I would like to build a sub that will go down flat to the low 20's (-3db point) and hopefully without any eq.

Using my old fashioned (possibly inaccurate) T/S formulas from 20 years ago, it seems that an enclosure of 115L tuned to 22Hz will theoretically achieve that, however these days with PC modeling, I would appreciate it if someone would be able to possibly recommend the correct enclosure and tuning and do a more accurate simulation to find out whether I can achieve my goal with this driver or if not, perhaps recommend me a different driver?

A large enclosure size is not much of an issue, ....however I'll eventually have to draw the line somewhere.

Any help appreciated.

Last edited by shmb; 2nd May 2013 at 05:23 AM.
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Old 2nd May 2013, 05:43 PM   #2
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Hi shmb,
1st datasheet -2010
2nd datasheet - 2009 (preliminar?)
Very good driver for BR or TL enclosures.
BRs from 63-165 L.
ideal PEERLESS XXLS-P835017, VB = 107.0 L, FB = 18.1 Hz (F-3 dB/26 Hz)
PEERLESS XXLS-P835017, VB = 107.0 L, FB = 21.4 Hz (F-3 dB/23 Hz)
PEERLESS XXLS-P835017, VB = 125.0 L, FB = 21.0 Hz (F-3 dB/22 Hz)
PEERLESS XXLS-P835017, VB = 150.0 L, FB = 20/21.0 Hz (F-3 dB/20 Hz)
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Old 3rd May 2013, 03:58 AM   #3
shmb is offline shmb  Australia
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Ok, so seems like I wasn't too far off then.


A few more questions:

I must say 150L with an Fb: 21Hz, f3: 20Hz sounds impressive and tempting.
But can you go too large? (from a sound quality perspective only)

You also say a 107L with Fb: 18Hz, F3: 26Hz is ideal?
Why is this considered ideal?

On top of that, I guess whats most confusing is that some recommended enclosures for this woofer are around 75L vented.
Obviously F3 will then suffer even more but is there a 'sound quality' reason to use a 75L over these larger up to 150L enclosures? Or is it purely for practicality reasons?

Thanks.
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Old 3rd May 2013, 11:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmb View Post
Obviously F3 will then suffer even more but is there a 'sound quality' reason to use a 75L over these larger up to 150L enclosures? Or is it purely for practicality reasons?

Thanks.
Yes, if you do the alignments (simulations) you know what I mean.
Let's just say that the ideal is the ideal alignment (not talking about bad subs or artificially equalized subs with DSPs and LTs). It means is not so abrupt with less low-end but the link room-gain/speaker is better achieved for "standard room dimensions". So I would never go 150L or 75L unless you put it inside your car.
A professional high-end monitor might have F3 close to 30-35Hz for your info.
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Old 5th May 2013, 01:15 AM   #5
shmb is offline shmb  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inductor View Post
Yes, if you do the alignments (simulations) you know what I mean.
Let's just say that the ideal is the ideal alignment (not talking about bad subs or artificially equalized subs with DSPs and LTs). It means is not so abrupt with less low-end but the link room-gain/speaker is better achieved for "standard room dimensions". So I would never go 150L or 75L unless you put it inside your car.
A professional high-end monitor might have F3 close to 30-35Hz for your info.

Ok thanks, I'm really gonna have to learn how to do this computer modeling.

Any simple effective design software I can download?

Thanks.
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Old 5th May 2013, 02:47 AM   #6
publius is offline publius  United States
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win isd pro

LinearTeam

i believe that driver or similar is used in an svs 12" ported sub, nsd12 or something like that. also in the genelec quad driver subwoofer that costs something like $10k. :-)

3.5 cubic feet tuned to 21hz has a nice smooth rolloff that would work well.

best,
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Old 6th May 2013, 10:02 AM   #7
shmb is offline shmb  Australia
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Great thanks, seems to work a treat.
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Old 6th May 2013, 06:43 PM   #8
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Great. Post results and impressions.
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Old 13th May 2013, 08:02 AM   #9
shmb is offline shmb  Australia
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Ok, so assuming I'll go 107-110L, I have a few more questions. Actually a lot.

I'll be using MDF, .....what sort of thickness do I need? I'd rather go overboard than the opposite.
Was thinking maybe 2x18mm MDF sheets glued together (36mm) with shelf bracing in 2 places. (ie approx every 25cm.) Maybe a cross brace from top to bottom too. Approximate external size will be 40cm x 55cm x 85cm (yes it is big)

A pic below is attached, ........after I did this rough drawing however, I realised the 300mm woofer has to mount somwhere so I guess the bracing will have to be spread differently to what's there. No top to bottom cross brace in the pic either.

Can the shelf braces be just 18mm thick? (not 36mm) Is that considered ok?
How many round holes in the shelf brace will do? Diameter of hole? Don't want to make it too weak but don't want to lose too much volume either.

Is it bad to mount the driver in the centre of the baffle? I'm thinking for a subwoofer it doesn't matter as they only work below 80Hz or so?

Regarding Ports and tuning, whats a tried and true method of reducing port noise? Obviously flared on both ends is a start, but is there an ideal diameter or is it just the bigger the better?
Or is there maybe an ideal position on the baffle for it to be? I'm hoping to put it near the bottom with driver in the middle. I read somewhere it has something to do with air speed and velocity? Is it predictable at all?


Finally, (although I can worry about this later) where can I find a decent sub amp (or 2) with a continuously variable phase adjustment. Most just have a switch.

Once again any help on these matters will be appreciated.

BTW: I'm now actually thinking of building 2 of these. It should be enough for a 4.5m x 5.7m room.



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Last edited by shmb; 13th May 2013 at 08:08 AM.
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Old 14th May 2013, 05:50 PM   #10
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Question #6 (paragraph):
Ideal diameter first is related to the tunning frequency and is such that doesn't give air speed noise at the power/SPL you gonna use.
There is a maximum of air speed usually used for the ports that is theoretically acceptable. From there you have your min. diameter or cross area and then calculate the length. (I can help you with that, if you give me the tunning frequency) look in WinIsd.
mh-audio.nl - Home
Minimum Port Diameter
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