My first subwoofer. Peerless xls10 in passive radiator application - diyAudio
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Old 1st May 2013, 09:42 PM   #1
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Default My first subwoofer. Peerless xls10 in passive radiator application

Hi.
It's my first audio project done ever. I designed and build it myself. Inspiration was taken from few other projects.
Driver - Peerless xls10
Passive Radiator - Scan Speak Discovery 10
Amplifier - custom build 300W into 4Ohm
Built of double 18mm MDF, Faux leather, Gloss Acrylic
Capacity 20 litres!
Tune to 21Hz

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Old 1st May 2013, 09:49 PM   #2
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what are you doing to keep the PR from being pulled down by gravity?
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Old 1st May 2013, 09:52 PM   #3
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Old 1st May 2013, 09:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear View Post
what are you doing to keep the PR from being pulled down by gravity?
PR is mounted*vertically

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Old 1st May 2013, 10:16 PM   #5
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Something is facing down... I can't tell what is what from the diagram, since I can't read that language, sorry. Looks like the active driver. Regardless, whatever is facing down will not long resist the effects of gravity upon the suspension. Rotating the design 90 degrees on axis would correct that... Also the interaction with the floor may or may not be beneficial depending on the room and the floor.

Forgot to say, it is a very attractive implementation...
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Old 1st May 2013, 11:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Looks like the active driver. Regardless, whatever is facing down will not long resist the effects of gravity upon the suspension. Rotating the design 90 degrees on axis would correct that... Also the interaction with the floor may or may not be beneficial depending on the room and the floor.
Thanks. You're right and i'm fully aware of that. However down firing applications are quite common and I think my driver will keep its performance for a good while..
Clearance between floor and driver it's 85mm but will be extended to 100mm in total.
The only reson i decided to build downfiring subwoofer was to keep it in small capacity (20liters)

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Old 2nd May 2013, 01:58 AM   #7
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the volume stays the same if the woofer fires out a side that is not facing down.

the usual method is to make the woofer front firing, so that it combines properly if it is used up to the midbass... but a side will still work, and then the PR can be on the opposite side or an adjacent wall...

fwiw, the higher the mass of the cone (lower the F3) the more difficult it is for the suspension to resist the gravitational force over time... common or not it is a problem...

Also, for equal diameter PR and woofer, the PR will run out of excursion before the woofer.... so its a good idea to go at least one diameter up or two... even with the larger excursion PRs available today. That would be like a 12" woofer ---> 18" PR.

Enjoy ur subwoofer!!

_-_-bear
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Old 2nd May 2013, 09:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
the usual method is to make the woofer front firing, so that it combines properly if it is used up to the midbass... but a side will still work, and then the*PR*can be on the opposite side or an adjacent wall...
I thought about that.. but simply didn't like the idea of woofers mounted on the opposite sides.

Quote:
Also, for equal diameter*PR*and woofer, the*PR*will run out of excursion before the woofer.... so its a good idea to go at least one diameter up or two... even with the larger excursion PRs available today. That would be like a 12" woofer ---> 18"*PR.*
How about an extra weight. According to my simulation adding extra 200g should solved that problem

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Enjoy ur subwoofer!!*
Now i won't enjoyed unless i solve all problems

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Old 6th May 2013, 07:03 PM   #9
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whoops, thought I replied... hmmm where did it go?

adding mass to the PR lowers the resonant frequency, making the suspension need to work harder to keep it in place, also adding mass lowers the resonant frequency, increasing the excursion. So the combination of a 12" main driver and an 18" PR is useful since the 12" can't possibly move enough air IF it is tuned sufficiently low...

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Old 9th July 2014, 10:18 AM   #10
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how do you like this small sub ?
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