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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Someone has asked me if I'd be able to do this for them, its a 128mm thick panel, needs a roundover on both sides, so about 60mm radius.
How would/could I go about doing this? One MASSIVE issue, is that its currently installed in a car, can't be removed, and has to all be done vertically..... Any ideas? he wants it done in the MDF, whereas I suggested PVC pipe (maybe filled with expanding foam) thanks!
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
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Pretty sure you would kerf something of that radius.
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Vlaanderen
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can you reach both sides freely?
Any tool that removes a lot of material will do then. Even a rasp. If this thick panel isn't made yet, you can glue them in a way each of them is a bit further, can't think of a better way to say it.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Don't even bother. You'll generate literally pounds [1] of dust and never get it all out of the car, so the customer will complain about that.
[1] I got 5 pounds from a 30 mm roundover on a 6 foot tall cabinet. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Its already in the car, and glued in, not removable, and one side of the panel you have to sit inside the box to do it....
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Farmington Hills, MI USA
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Tell your buddy next time he needs to do the fabrication BEFORE the installation! It sounds like a subwoofer box...is this radius job essential to function or merely cosmetic? DSP-Geek is right, this will generate so much dust and shavings that he'll never get the inside of the car clean again. You need to work on a Plan B!
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Kevin(ahcc20)...I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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its to flare the port on a subwoofer box, but its the entire thickness of the baffle.
My suggestion was to remove as much material as possible with a jigsaw, then belt sand and flap disc it. However, I'm wondering if it would be easier, and neater, to remove as much as possible with a jigsaw, without worrying too much about how neat it is, then make a template to use bog to build the level back up! |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Line the interior of the car with auto painting plastic masking paper. Tape it down everywhere, including the headliner. Wear proper eye protection and a respirator. Also, buy a cheap tyvek painters suit. When you're ready to remove the plastic and dust, spray it down with water in a windex spray bottle.
The rounding over can be accomplished with 3M 24 grit paper on a long board, with stepping up through the grits as you get close to the right contour. As you get close, switch to a soft rubber backing for the paper. I think it will go faster than you think on MDF. You can get your materials at any body shop supply wholesaler. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal
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a bevel is nearly as good, and you can do it with a lot less dust with simple tools (circ saw, CAREFULLY). DO mask the vehicle if you ever want the dust out.
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
With a full radius on the port there is separation of flow before the flow gets more than half way around the radius. Just like with exhaust systems, angle of more than ~22 degrees causes separation of flow from the surface of the expanding flare. Dave
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<---My Transmission Lines from a prior life Top one Tweeter...Bottom one definitely a Sub |
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