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Old 10th April 2013, 02:36 PM   #21
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Thank you,

Tapped horns seem to be more complex and have smaller vents though?
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Old 10th April 2013, 04:32 PM   #22
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Yes i meant 140 @1m !! lmao In terms of measuring my music, ive tried various genre's and most of them will reach down to around 34hz.
I've seen a bunch of measured dub type music that hits 27 hz (and sometimes but rarely even lower). If you only need to get to 34 hz that opens up the options, there's a bunch of horns that can do 35 (IIRC).

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Tapped horns... ill have to have a good read up !!
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Tapped horns seem to be more complex and have smaller vents though?
What exactly do you want to know? If a horn of any type meets your frequency response and max spl goals it doesn't matter much what type of horn it is. You can look further into the other specs like group delay and phase but I seriously doubt your audience is going to care what type of horn they are listening to.

Tapped horns are no more complex than any other horn, in fact they are simply a clever variant of back loaded horn (which is a variant of ported box). The mouth is smaller than front loaded horns because a large mouth gives more efficiency higher up in frequency, which tapped horns trade for small size.

Seriously though, if you want to study the physics behind tapped, front and rear loaded horns, sit down and have a good read but it's going to take a couple of years to really understand what's going on. A good simulator like Hornresp can speed up the learning curve exponentially. Or you can just pick an existing design that meets your frequency response and max spl goals and not worry about the details.

The Othorn tapped horn is probably fine in a stack of 4 (I'll sim a stack of them for you if you chose it) and will easily meet your stated goals but if you stack 8 of them the lower frequencies are going to start to get overwhelming and the higher frequencies won't be able to keep up. That's when you want to start looking for front loaded horns that were designed to be used in large stacks. THIS is why I relentlessly tried to make you state your goals up front. THIS is why you can't just pick a random design and keep adding more and more cabs until it sounds the way you want. Eq can help a bad situation but it's better to start with a good system design (as opposed to a good single cab design) in the first place.

And I'm still a bit worried about your power situation. Do you have 17000 watts of amp power and a way to power those amps out in the field? If not you might want to think about using more cabs, larger cabs (probably front loaded horns) to gain efficiency instead of relying on amp power to achieve your spl goals. This is why it's important to state your goals and limitations from the start. Otherwise all we can do is guess and you might end up extremely disappointed.

Last edited by just a guy; 10th April 2013 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 10th April 2013, 05:00 PM   #23
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Furthermore.... i have just bought a load of http://www.diy.com/nav/build/timber/sheet-materials/Temperate-Hardwood-Ply-L-2440-x-W-1220-x-T-18mm-9276281

is that overkill or ideal? i know some ply can just fall apart :/ and MDF sucks !

Click the image to open in full size.
This will be fine if it's void free, although it's extremely expensive because it's got a decorative veneer on it, which you are probably just going to paint over anyway. I don't know what baltic birch costs there but that would have been my first choice and it's probably cheaper than this stuff.

If this stuff is not void free you could have just used this and saved a bunch of money.
Oriented Strand Board Exterior (L)1220 x (W)607 x (T)15mm, 5022652560409
Or any other voidless sheet material. (Personally I would never use mdf though.)

Other than void free, the most important thing is that the sheet goods match the material thickness in the plans that you build. Otherwise you are going to have to make adjustments to the plans and that won't be any kind of fun.

Last edited by just a guy; 10th April 2013 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 11th April 2013, 10:06 AM   #24
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If this stuff is not void free
Thanks for the helpful information what exactly do you mean by void?
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Old 11th April 2013, 03:51 PM   #25
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Thanks for the helpful information what exactly do you mean by void?
Voids are holes.
Check the edges of the plywood, if you see gaps (voids, holes) the plywood is not good for building speaker cabinets- the voids inevitably end up where a mounting screw should go.
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Old 11th April 2013, 04:11 PM   #26
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Even if you don't use screws the void could contain a knot (or other particle) that could become loose and rattle. This is not common but if it happens you will wish you had used void free material.
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Old 11th April 2013, 04:23 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by just a guy View Post

The Othorn tapped horn is probably fine in a stack of 4 (I'll sim a stack of them for you if you chose it) and will easily meet your stated goals but if you stack 8 of them the lower frequencies are going to start to get overwhelming and the higher frequencies won't be able to keep up.
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And I'm still a bit worried about your power situation. Do you have 17000 watts of amp power and a way to power those amps out in the field? If not you might want to think about using more cabs, larger cabs (probably front loaded horns) to gain efficiency instead of relying on amp power to achieve your spl goals. This is why it's important to state your goals and limitations from the start. Otherwise all we can do is guess and you might end up extremely disappointed.
I can see that you are still not the least bit interested in defining your goals and limitations beyond the most basic level - 140 db/1m in an open field and you may or may not own dsp, amps, and may or may not have anywhere to plug your electronics in for power, and these theoretical plugs may or may not be able to handle anywhere near the power you will need.

I'm not sure why you don't want to discuss these things but from what I've seen so far you clearly need as much help as you can possibly get.
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Old 11th April 2013, 05:14 PM   #28
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I can see that you are still not the least bit interested in defining your goals and limitations beyond the most basic level -
Some things never change .
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Old 12th April 2013, 08:54 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by just a guy View Post
I can see that you are still not the least bit interested in defining your goals and limitations beyond the most basic level - 140 db/1m in an open field and you may or may not own dsp, amps, and may or may not have anywhere to plug your electronics in for power, and these theoretical plugs may or may not be able to handle anywhere near the power you will need.

I'm not sure why you don't want to discuss these things but from what I've seen so far you clearly need as much help as you can possibly get.
You seem to be broadening this beyond what the topic is about. I have plenty of power and im using Digital amps, see this as more of a 'im bored and want to try horns out for once' type of project.

You seem to be going into WAY too much detail, though i appreciate this of course.

Sarcasm and 'kind words' will not help me out at all ....... i didn't come onto this forum to get spoken down to and patronised...
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Old 12th April 2013, 01:28 PM   #30
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You chose a 52 hz horn for dubstep, that's the basis of my comment that you need as much help as you can get.

WRT the power comments, it might not be completely obvious that it's not easy to get 17000 watts out in a field, you can't get that much from a single household plug, and generators can destroy amps because that's not really what they are made for. Extension cords would have to be thicker than garden hoses (probably 1/0 awg or better) to go the distance from the available plugs that I'm picturing in your open field scenario without burning half your power in wire resistance.

Also I've been trying to point out that stacking horns (or any alignment) changes their basic response, the more you stack the more it changes.

As far as I'm concerned I'm going into the absolute minimum amount of detail to get a working system that meets your basic stated goals.

Since there's no other way I can think of to make you understand that a large system needs to be designed as a system, I wish you good luck and good bye.
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