$325 Lab 12 based PA tapped horn. ~35hz extension - Page 15 - diyAudio
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Old 21st April 2013, 10:07 PM   #141
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Duratex is the bomb!

When I was doing my BFM cabs I put them in and it turned out mint. I also bought a small bucket and only used 1 coat.

I did it in 3 steps:

1. Use oil based primer to seal the wood and provide a good base boat
2. Use latex flat black for second coat
3. Use Duratex for final coat

I liked using oil based for my first coat as it seems to stick better than latex
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Old 22nd April 2013, 12:52 AM   #142
djlivex is offline djlivex  United States
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Just finished this with Duratex base mixed with Scott Paint Acrylic Violet 16oz. Took 1/8 of the mixed Duratex to finish both BFM SLA Pro but 3 coats of paint no primer.
Will be using same finish with the Tuba 24's (2X10"BP102). Great stuff made it look professional cabs.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6053613...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6053613...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6053613...n/photostream/

Last edited by djlivex; 22nd April 2013 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 23rd April 2013, 01:35 AM   #143
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Those look good! With the kinda purple tint.

Got the second one almost all finished. Getting close to taking more measurements on the pair once they're finished, and I will do so with the big qsc mx2000a

Click the image to open in full size.

Also made a ramp to help roll these in and out of my basement, with steep stairs.
Coated the ramp in duratex of course
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 23rd April 2013, 11:13 AM   #144
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man you're loving that stuff
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Old 23rd April 2013, 02:49 PM   #145
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Yes sir!
Well the ramp, at the steep angle I have it, without a coating was super slippery. And that's dry. If there were some rain it would have been more like a water slide for me and the subwoofer cabinet as opposed to a ramp lol
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Old 23rd April 2013, 04:41 PM   #146
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Appalachia, in the middle of nowhere.
Default Dura-Tex and drywall mud

The thing that I really like about Dura-Tex is that they recommend using regular drywall mud to fill in screw heads and any little imperfection.
I would have not believed it, but the instructions say to NOT use Bondo, water putty, epoxy or other wood fillers.
.
The instructions say the Dura-Tex will not stick to these fillers.
.
Then sand, of course repeat, and then just paint over the whole thing with Dura-Tex.
.
I painted a sub with Dura-Tex, right over sanded drywall mud and it has lasted 9 months now without any cracks at all.
And I really flog that cabinet.
.
I just finished another set of cabinets and primed them with "Kilz" before coating with Dura_Tex.
That saves allot of the more expensive Dura-Tex.
I had the paint guys at Lowes put some Black coloring in the Kilz so it covered up with the black Dura-Tex easier.

Dave
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<---My Transmission Lines from a prior life...Top one Tweeter...Bottom one definitely a Sub
..In space, you can't hear my sub
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Old 23rd April 2013, 05:23 PM   #147
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadydave View Post
The thing that I really like about Dura-Tex is that they recommend using regular drywall mud to fill in screw heads and any little imperfection.
I would have not believed it, but the instructions say to NOT use Bondo, water putty, epoxy or other wood fillers.

The instructions say the Dura-Tex will not stick to these fillers.

I had the paint guys at Lowes put some Black coloring in the Kilz so it covered up with the black Dura-Tex easier.
Dave,

The instructions just downloaded say use drywall spackle or Bondo for best results, avoid rubbery fillers.

Black Kilz, good tip!

Art
Attached Images
File Type: png Duratex.png (239.3 KB, 627 views)
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Old 25th April 2013, 12:49 AM   #148
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Here's the super compact midbass I started on. Sims well for what I want. Large peak from 120-200hz then it slowly falls. I'll be using the 2x15" midbass with the pair of PAL12's. midbass/low midrange ran up to 500hz.
Click the image to open in full size.

Will be loaded with Celestion 15" drivers, and braced well.
Specs are 67L internal volume, (2) 4" ports, tuned to 80Hz.
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Old 26th April 2013, 01:39 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m R g S r View Post
I also got most of the stuff I need to complete the system.
(4)18 sound 1" HF drivers
Dayton 10" round waveguide
(4) eminence sealed back midranges
(4) celestion 15" for midbass

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Looks sick! Do you have a thread going on the total system?

What are your thoughts about the output of the tops vs. subs, it seems like a single sub (or even two) on each side won't be enough to keep up with the kick/mid/tops, unless I misunderstand the configuration? Building more?

Last edited by turbodawg; 26th April 2013 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 26th April 2013, 03:53 PM   #150
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Well it looks like ill be able to get right around 125db for one PAL12 (down to 36-38Hz or so) and about 130db with a pair.
That's more than many other subs put out. I think it'll be fine for the time being. I can just run the rest of the system not all out. Will have some headroom there.

Besides, with a louder midbass section, it may "hit you in the chest" harder giving the illusion that there is actually more sub bass.

It's nearing completion, hopefully within the next few weeks. It's been an expensive last month or so lol
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