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Old 16th March 2013, 11:06 AM   #11
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Just to show how outclassed the 4 little 6" morels (with only 4.2mm of travel) will be by the labs here they are in a standard ported box.Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by mr. doom; 16th March 2013 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 16th March 2013, 11:32 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rullknufs View Post
I set the cabinet size to ~50l.

So you think sealed 50l per sub will be fine enough for me? I still see excursion being the main problem. But maybe I'm just doing it wrong.

So would this be good bang for the buck? I guess the drivers in total will be ~$300 including shipping. If so, I'll buy them.
I'm saying you could go down to 30L per sub, and apply a Linkwitz Transform to pick the SPL/f3 you want. You won't lose any SPL capability until you drop below 30L:

Small sealed cabinets resist the movement of the cone more than larger cabinets. So, more power is needed to make the cone move by a given amount.
So long as you reach Xmax, you are getting the most you can from the drivers.
It will take more power to reach Xmax in a smaller cabinet.
30L is as small as you can go while still reaching Xmax, and staying within the power rating of the driver.
Therefore, 30L is the smallest cabinet volume that you can use, while still getting everything the drivers have to give.

Note: this doesn't take into account the thermal de-rating introduced by small sealed cabinets, but given that music (or movies) rarely has continuous bass output for long enough to shift the temperature of the whole motor structure, I think you'll be fine.
I would be worried if, in your room, you ran these flat out for any length of time, except to see what happens.

Chris
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Old 16th March 2013, 11:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. doom View Post
Just to show how outclassed the 4 little 6" morels (with only 4.2mm of travel) will be by the labs here they are in a standard ported box.Click the image to open in full size.
Just to add they run out of excursion at 50hz with as little as 20 watts to each driver.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 16th March 2013, 12:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris661 View Post
I'm saying you could go down to 30L per sub, and apply a Linkwitz Transform to pick the SPL/f3 you want. You won't lose any SPL capability until you drop below 30L:

Small sealed cabinets resist the movement of the cone more than larger cabinets. So, more power is needed to make the cone move by a given amount.
So long as you reach Xmax, you are getting the most you can from the drivers.
It will take more power to reach Xmax in a smaller cabinet.
30L is as small as you can go while still reaching Xmax, and staying within the power rating of the driver.
Therefore, 30L is the smallest cabinet volume that you can use, while still getting everything the drivers have to give.

Note: this doesn't take into account the thermal de-rating introduced by small sealed cabinets, but given that music (or movies) rarely has continuous bass output for long enough to shift the temperature of the whole motor structure, I think you'll be fine.
I would be worried if, in your room, you ran these flat out for any length of time, except to see what happens.

Chris
Okay, I'll buy them and put them in 30l sealed boxes. That will allow me to place them quite freely in the room since 30l is really tiny.

Will the iNuke 3000dsp be enough or do I need a bigger amplifier with more power?

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Originally Posted by mr. doom View Post
Just to add they run out of excursion at 50hz with as little as 20 watts to each driver.Click the image to open in full size.
No problems since I have a massive roomgain peak at ~50Hz of about 10-15dB.
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Old 16th March 2013, 12:22 PM   #15
scholl is offline scholl  United States
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Default Counter balance

Hi,

Take some time to consider a counter balanced design, Either push pull slot load or a woofer on oposite sides of the box. PPSL will give you the mechanical, thd cancelation plus compresion in about a 4 cubic foot box. 6th order can be used to lower F3 and reduce box size at the expense of power. The cheap INukes and other amps with DSP can make it all come together.

All in all a person can build a sub that'll have excellent output at low F3 in a reasonable box.

Later
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Old 16th March 2013, 12:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scholl View Post
Hi,

Take some time to consider a counter balanced design, Either push pull slot load or a woofer on oposite sides of the box. PPSL will give you the mechanical, thd cancelation plus compresion in about a 4 cubic foot box. 6th order can be used to lower F3 and reduce box size at the expense of power. The cheap INukes and other amps with DSP can make it all come together.

All in all a person can build a sub that'll have excellent output at low F3 in a reasonable box.

Later
Can you explain further?
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Old 16th March 2013, 05:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Rullknufs View Post
Can you explain further?
Although PPSL reduces even order harmonic distortion (which the Lab 12 has very little of below Xmax) it exposes the rear vent to the "outside world".

The Lab 12 has quite a bit of vent noise, in experimenting with PP, I found the vent noise to be unacceptable.
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Old 17th March 2013, 08:58 PM   #18
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Bought the subs today. I expect to have them on wednesday or thursday.
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Old 18th March 2013, 04:59 AM   #19
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Hi Rullknufs,

"...expect to have them on wednesday or thursday."

Great, build two sealed boxes somewhere between 30L and 70L, fill loosely with fiberfill, eq (or apply LR transform), start tuning their position in the room (and the room), and let us know how you like it. :-)

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Last edited by tb46; 18th March 2013 at 05:02 AM.
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Old 18th March 2013, 08:32 AM   #20
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Is there any pros or cons going for close to 30l instead of close to 70l? I mean sonically, not the obvious that a smaller box is easier to fit in my room.

Is this damping material okay? Visaton Damping Material - Thomann Cyberstore Sverige

As for amplier I think the Behringer iNuke NU6000DSP should be fine. It's only about €35 more than the NU3000DSP and I guess the extra power can be nice.

Does anybody have information about fan-modding the Behringer iNukes?
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