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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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I am in the process of building a small passive sub for a PC system. It will be powered by a DTA-1 T-Amp. I can design the box, I can build it, etc. But, when it comes to electronics I need some guidance.
I want to go from the L/R speaker output on the amp, to the sub, then the signal continues from the sub to the speakers. I know I need a High Pass filter, so only signals under 120 Hz go to the sub. The speakers is no problem, because they are full range (2-1/2" Dayton Audio ND-65-8 FR drivers). How do I do the internal wiring for the sub? For connection I will be using spring terminals. Have not calculated the HPF, but there are plenty of calcs for that. Basically, how do I wire from the spring input terminal to the HPF, then to the sub driver, and how do I go from there, or from the input terminal, to the output spring terminal, while keeping everything 8 Ohms? |
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#2 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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Quote:
Quote:
Many times the "old" type subs you mention where 4th Order Bandpass Systems with two subs drivers. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Fortunately, most bass is mixed mono, so operating the sub from only one side of the amp is not a problem. If your sub had dual voice coils, you could use both sides of the amp. You also need to filter the lows out of the 2.5" high speakers or they will distort. At minimum you will need an inductor in series with the sub, and a capacitor in series with each of the high speakers. There is a sticky on making passive crossovers on the multi way forum. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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No I didn't. You have to learn on how to operate the 4th Order Bandpass Speaker system from the point of view of the natural/acoustic filter roll off.
![]() Using dual woofers (or dvc) and matching then the satellites it's easy... (this is if that's what you're looking for). |
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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By the way, speaking as someone who had to design them, passive sub crossovers DON'T WORK.
Not really. The impedance peaks at the resonances of the sub and satellites interfere to much for any simple passive design to function as designed. Yeah, you can kind cut out some low bass from the satellites and some highs out of the sub, but it will be a very crude approximation. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Devon UK
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Quote:
In car audio amplifiers, often one channel has the signal inverted and the outputs labelled according to the phase. This allows for easy bridging of the amplifier outputs. The speaker connection is just moved from one connection to the other one to bridge the amplifier. So it stands to reason that if the stereo amp has one input signal inverted by use of a opamp (or transformer!) then the amplifier can be bridged in the same manner. It is then possble to run a pair of stereo speakers in normal mode but with one speaker connected in reverse to re-correct the phase, and a single speaker in bridged mode. There are issues with the overal impedance loads that the amp must tolerate, and the sub especially must be not to low an impedance, but it does work (crudely)
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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