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Old 7th February 2013, 12:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Eckhardt View Post
Maybe for nothing, but I think you'll have to bury that thing in dry sand or the walls are going to get knocked to the next beach over by those drivers.
Walls of what? The cooler? I'm building an enclosure from 1/2" Baltic birch inside the cooler. With very light bracing, it should be more than sufficient.
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Old 7th February 2013, 12:36 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Brian Steele View Post
What sort of filtering options does the deck have? You could tune the cab to have a peak at Fb, then set the deck to feed the sub with a signal that's high-passed at or near Fb. This should flatten the passband response and eliminate the possibility of over-excursion below Fb.
That's just it, I can't set any "subsonic" filter with the pioneer head unit. It will only allow you to high pass the non sub channel. And that is only selectable from 80-120hz I believe.

The alpine PDX amp just has a simple 15/30hz subsonic filter switch on it. So If I'm not going the sealed route I'd have to do the 30hz filter.

I think it was not a problem before because the ss15 throat added some compression
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Old 7th February 2013, 12:43 AM   #33
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Wasn't aware of plans to make a complete box. In that case, I'd be tempted to remove the liner and gain the most voluminous inch or so..
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Old 7th February 2013, 12:45 AM   #34
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Yeah sorry if that wasn't clear. I waiting on getting another sheet of 1/2" Baltic birch.

And I was planning on removing some of the inner liner, where it sort of steps inward. I do not want to ruin the integrity of the outside of the cooler and the built in plastic handles, so I won't really be modding the outer blue plastic too much.
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Old 7th February 2013, 01:06 AM   #35
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Would you happen to know the B+ quiescent current on those amps?
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Old 7th February 2013, 01:18 AM   #36
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I'm not sure i even know what that is lol

After port displacement and driver displacement I calculated 2.25 ft^3, (2) 3" ports at 11" each. The port will end About 1.75" from the back wall, tuning to about 35hz.

Last edited by m R g S r; 7th February 2013 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 7th February 2013, 01:34 AM   #37
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No signal current draw at 12V. If it's specified at 14.4, it'll be somewhat proportionally higher at the lower voltage because of switching regulator action. Also, glad to see the Pyles go. They might beam less at top frequency, but by the time you get 100hz above the resonant peak, you'd probaby be at around 500 Hz or so on the bottom... Shame not to let the 8A's handle that, and maybe a few more octaves..
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Old 7th February 2013, 01:43 AM   #38
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Wouldn't that current draw only matter if I had it connected to the batteries but the amp powered on? Or would that current draw be with the amp connected but the remote power signal not feeding 12v as well?
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Old 7th February 2013, 01:53 AM   #39
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Yes, it only matters if the amps are live, but it's important because it means no matter what you're playing, you're drawing at least that much current. It sets a hard upper limit on battery uptime. Throw in head unit load as well. All together you might have somewhere between 5 and 10 Amps. It would be handy to know exactly.
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Old 7th February 2013, 01:57 AM   #40
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Ahh got it! I figure head unit load won't be much (I know it's still there) if I'm not using the units internal amp.
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