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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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What model?
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Those two Beta 8As are going to be so much louder than the Kappalite in a sealed cabinet that I think you're gonna run out of power on the thing trying to keep up. However, if you model it a vented cabinet with a short vent to increase its passband efficiency (at the expense of extension of course), it might work out quite good.
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Yeah I know. Because they kept up just fine with 600rms and the two ss15's I had them paired with (300rms each ss15)
But It's all at the cost of size and portability. Ill see if I can shove a port in there somewhere. But if its too small I'd rather just do sealed as opposed to having a port chuff noise all the time
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
And I have come up with the following reasons not to use them, and just use the beta8's crossed to the tweeters. -I can bridge the amp and let the passives take care of crossover duty. Still high pass at 120hz via the head unit, or at the amp itself. -More Volume for the subwoofer enclosure, more output. -efficiency is the name of the game when running off battery power, and since a horn loaded subwoofer is out of the question, I should really be using a ported subwoofer enclosure for a few more db in the passband. Without the Pyle midranges in the way, and with a little more volume, I can come up with something useful (two 3" ports) I'm thinking of tuning slightly above 30hz, because A that's the only high pass option I have to protect the sub from over excursion (amp has selectable 15/30hz high pass) and B. a lot of the EDM has content in the 35-40hz range. I'm going to run some sims and see what tuning I can come up with with the two 3" ports and my current projected enclosure volume. I did some rough calls and I have about 2.41 ft^3 before driver displacement and port tube displacement. Ohh and the Beta8's will be run sealed in .40 ft^3 enclosures. |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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The basic layout of the box now that I will be crossing the beta 8's right to the tweeters. The waveguide of the tweeters actually separated from the driver, I will try and epoxy them back together
![]() Started cutting, cut the top 18mm birch baffle and got started on making some holes ![]() Laying out the midrange spacing
Last edited by m R g S r; 7th February 2013 at 12:01 AM. |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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![]() The corners were rounded on the cooler, so I used a heat gun and softened the plastic enough to press the wood into it. ![]() Layout is looking good! ![]() The 3" PVC that I have that I'd like to use for the ports. Obviously chopped down a bit.
Last edited by m R g S r; 7th February 2013 at 12:07 AM. |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montana Missoula
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Quote:
It is rated 600-700watts at 2 ohms, 1/2 that at 4ohms = around 350 and 1/2 that at 8ohms is 175. Am I missing something? I would not tune it below 50hz btw. |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Is a regulated amp (1-4ohms) And the 8ohms is the nominal Re is 5.3 I believe?
The birth sheet on the amp was 692rms. I know that's at 14.4 volts but still higher than rated. So I figured my estimate of 300rms in the passband is fairly close. Also, if I don't tune close to 30hz, like 35ish, then the speaker could be damaged if someone just blasts the radio and ignores the distortion etc Last edited by m R g S r; 7th February 2013 at 12:13 AM. |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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What sort of filtering options does the deck have? You could tune the cab to have a peak at Fb, then set the deck to feed the sub with a signal that's high-passed at or near Fb. This should flatten the passband response and eliminate the possibility of over-excursion below Fb.
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
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Maybe for nothing, but I think you'll have to bury that thing in dry sand or the walls are going to get knocked to the next beach over by those drivers.
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