Can i use this driver for home theater? And what type of cab should i use? ported? bottom ported? back ported?
12" Sub-woofer
Max Power 450 watts.
Sensitivity 97 dB.
Frequency response 40 Hz to 5Khz
Impedance 4 or 8 OHMS
Magnet Weight 55 Oz.
Dual Voice Coil - ASV Aluminium
Surrounded by rubber
Digital Ready
Poly-Injection Cone
Cant find more specs anywhere...
12" Sub-woofer
Max Power 450 watts.
Sensitivity 97 dB.
Frequency response 40 Hz to 5Khz
Impedance 4 or 8 OHMS
Magnet Weight 55 Oz.
Dual Voice Coil - ASV Aluminium
Surrounded by rubber
Digital Ready
Poly-Injection Cone
Cant find more specs anywhere...
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LOL40 Hz to 5Khz is more like woofer not a subwoofer
ported? bottom ported? back ported?, its your preference.
ported,sealed,good, bad .No one can help without Thile Small parameters for ur speaker
Sensitivity 97 dB is Fake
Surrounded by rubber, Digital Ready. I would love to know, which manufacturer lists specs in such a funny way
Ya if you have it already and dont know anything about it, no sticker, no brand
Try it out in sealed enclosure for safer bet may be 1.25- 1.5 cubic feet box
You could use both in parallel for four ohms, or a single at 8 ohms, one coil on each side of a stereo amp.
Or just power one of the 8 ohm coils until it burns up, then a spare is still available
.You could use both in parallel for four ohms, or a single at 8 ohms, one coil on each side of a stereo amp.
Or just power one of the 8 ohm coils until it burns up, then a spare is still available
Ok, may be I was mistaken, the math didnt add up
4 ohm or 8ohm
8 must be series, this means 4+4 ohn
then the parallel must be 4 and 4 in parallel giving 2 ohm
and hence it should be 2 ohm and 8ohm
I dont there are 2 resistance values which sum as 8ohm in sries and 4 in parallel
May be its an old version. Cant find it on their website
Sound Barrier - Sound Barrier | | Woofers
I am sure you already know you need Qtc Qms Fs Vas, numbers like these for this sub. Then put em in the winISD free software and you get a nice box type and size simulation.
nice one, X-530 Logitech 25watt subwoofer vs Some 12inch 450watts
lets think
12 inchs will kill the X-530 and then tear its cone apart and then $#%$#^%$# the magnetic **** out of the poor no good Logitech
how you plan to power this sub
Dont know where you from but i hear ppl recommend 50$ infinity 1262 12 inch
frequently. Dayton also has lotts of really nice subs for all price range.
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You're welcome! Have you tried asking their support folks? This appears to be a car audio sub and they seem to be out of that business, at least for now. Otherwise, you'll have to measure yours.
Regardless, based on the limited info, unless it can be used in a tapped pipe or horn, it's not really suited for HT due to its high Fs.
GM
So i should forget about making a subwoofer with this, i thought at least i could make a computer subwoofer with it. or wanted to buy a plate like this one: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-782 .I tried to talk with support but no response.
Well, you could make a woofer cab that would cover all but the lowest musical notes, but it wouldn't be a true sub.
For a computer system though, I assume it will be close to you, so it won't need to play at high SPL, just low. In this case, sticking it in the largest sealed cab you have room for, then using EQ to get an acceptable response to below 40 Hz could work.
GM
For a computer system though, I assume it will be close to you, so it won't need to play at high SPL, just low. In this case, sticking it in the largest sealed cab you have room for, then using EQ to get an acceptable response to below 40 Hz could work.
GM
I agree with GM
This wont make a good Home Theater sub. But it may be fine as computer subs.
Since its a car sub , it very likely needs 1.5 cubic feet sealed box
25watts may not be worth all that trouble and the big enclosure and 12 inch speaker. Spend a little more to get SA70 70W amp
also consider a different sub, may be smaller but with better spec and lower fs
be careful with ur 25w dayton sub, it gives only 15watts at 8ohm and it not compatible with 2ohm. And math says your sub is 2ohm and 8ohm and not 4 as i said earlier.
This wont make a good Home Theater sub. But it may be fine as computer subs.
Since its a car sub , it very likely needs 1.5 cubic feet sealed box
25watts may not be worth all that trouble and the big enclosure and 12 inch speaker. Spend a little more to get SA70 70W amp
also consider a different sub, may be smaller but with better spec and lower fs
be careful with ur 25w dayton sub, it gives only 15watts at 8ohm and it not compatible with 2ohm. And math says your sub is 2ohm and 8ohm and not 4 as i said earlier.
Hmm, even at 15 W [~11.76 dB gain], this equates to a high enough peak SPL inside 1 m even down low with an inefficient speaker short of wanting to hit THX cinema reference; plus, I have to wonder if this driver will actually handle much power down below its likely 40+ Hz Fs if it's of the same quality as some similar off brand car audio woofers I have experience with that are hand grenades at even a fraction of their published power.
GM
GM
I think, for predictable results, I'd put it in a really tiny sealed cabinet, and use a 12dB/octave boost, shelving at, say, 40Hz.
It'd eat up power very quickly, but excursion should be okay until it gets quite loud.
The up-side is that you'd get a flat frequency response (regardless of driver) from 40Hz up to >100Hz (where there'd be a large peak in output - make sure the crossover is able to get rid of that).
Chris
It'd eat up power very quickly, but excursion should be okay until it gets quite loud.
The up-side is that you'd get a flat frequency response (regardless of driver) from 40Hz up to >100Hz (where there'd be a large peak in output - make sure the crossover is able to get rid of that).
Chris
I would aim for 30L sealed, no boost, but maybe a 12db 80-90hz low cut, corner loaded.
Many cheap car subs go well with around 30L sealed, they are very dependent on room gain. You can probably buy a cheap ready made cabinet at a car accessories shop or something, less work. Just stuff it full of damping material.
Many cheap car subs go well with around 30L sealed, they are very dependent on room gain. You can probably buy a cheap ready made cabinet at a car accessories shop or something, less work. Just stuff it full of damping material.
Thank you all for your responses. I have these 3 spekers in my closet, and wanted to give a purpose to them , making a subwoofer for my movie area, or something like that. I have this 10" pyramid speaker, but on the page of pyramid looks like i could use it for home subwoofer. but no specs on page: Pyramid - PW1048USX - 10'' 500 Watt High Performance 8 Ohm Subwoofer
The third speaker is a 8" Pyle, the specs are attached
The question is, what do you think is the less bad speaker for a home subwoofer?
Or what would you do with them? out of a car of course.
I dont want a harman/kardon hometheater experience.
At least the quality of a 30 watts altec/logitech subwoofer or close... to add a little low end to my music and movies.
I would like to know just an specific box/cab to buy that could do the aceptable job and make it super simple, ported, sealed, size...or what crossover i should buy.
I dont know much about speakers, boxes, freqs, etc...
When you say 30L sealed, no boost, but maybe a 12db 80-90hz low cut, corner loaded, im not really sure what it means. I understand sealed.
Some images of a recomended cab?
, making a subwoofer for my movie area, or something like that. I have this 10" pyramid speaker, but on the page of pyramid looks like i could use it for home subwoofer. but no specs on page: Pyramid - PW1048USX - 10'' 500 Watt High Performance 8 Ohm SubwooferThe third speaker is a 8" Pyle, the specs are attached
The question is, what do you think is the less bad speaker for a home subwoofer?
Or what would you do with them? out of a car of course.
I dont want a harman/kardon hometheater experience.
At least the quality of a 30 watts altec/logitech subwoofer or close... to add a little low end to my music and movies.
I would like to know just an specific box/cab to buy that could do the aceptable job and make it super simple, ported, sealed, size...or what crossover i should buy.
I dont know much about speakers, boxes, freqs, etc...
When you say 30L sealed, no boost, but maybe a 12db 80-90hz low cut, corner loaded, im not really sure what it means. I understand sealed.
Some images of a recomended cab?
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If you just install winisd and try to put those driver parameters in, you will easily be able to find several alternative solutions. I hope you are bold enough to leap into the exciting world of DIY, it is a step most of the users on this forum have been through, and a very rewarding experience. And it is not really that hard to read up on filters, getting good at filters is another thing, but usually for subs you'd use active filters, just start with finding a reasonably priced, ready to use, sub amp and you're good to go.
If you just install winisd and try to put those driver parameters in, you will easily be able to find several alternative solutions. I hope you are bold enough to leap into the exciting world of DIY, it is a step most of the users on this forum have been through, and a very rewarding experience. And it is not really that hard to read up on filters, getting good at filters is another thing, but usually for subs you'd use active filters, just start with finding a reasonably priced, ready to use, sub amp and you're good to go.
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