I have a corner for movies and music. It's not ideal and I'm not under any illusions about making it such. I basically have 38 inches on each side as in the photo.
My plan is to make a small pair of 2-way speakers such as Zaph SR71 on stands that I can position for best sound.
For fuller sound and movies I thought I'd build a pair of subwoofers and use outboard class D stereo amp and crossover. However, there's not sufficient room for typical shaped boxes. (See attachment.)
Will this work? The modeled size is about 2 cu ft. I could port to rear (or front) or leave sealed. I was thinking of using the Seas L26ROY
The empty part in the middle of the model would be used for equipment and a center channel. The entire cabinet would be attached to the studs about six inches off the floor and is about 20 inches high.
My plan is to make a small pair of 2-way speakers such as Zaph SR71 on stands that I can position for best sound.
For fuller sound and movies I thought I'd build a pair of subwoofers and use outboard class D stereo amp and crossover. However, there's not sufficient room for typical shaped boxes. (See attachment.)
Will this work? The modeled size is about 2 cu ft. I could port to rear (or front) or leave sealed. I was thinking of using the Seas L26ROY
The empty part in the middle of the model would be used for equipment and a center channel. The entire cabinet would be attached to the studs about six inches off the floor and is about 20 inches high.
Attachments
Good points, indeed.
My original idea was to put a single sub behind the tv with a down-firing woofer but realized how difficult was to find one that wouldn't succumb to gravity sag. Anyway, when I decided to use two small 2-way, I realized I would need to cross fairly high and stereo sub would help. My early days (about thirty years ago) built Bud Fried T-Lines and he always built in stereo.
Some other equipment will get placed behind the tv (crossover, converters, video game, etc).
But what is your opinion of the triangular boxes?
My original idea was to put a single sub behind the tv with a down-firing woofer but realized how difficult was to find one that wouldn't succumb to gravity sag. Anyway, when I decided to use two small 2-way, I realized I would need to cross fairly high and stereo sub would help. My early days (about thirty years ago) built Bud Fried T-Lines and he always built in stereo.
Some other equipment will get placed behind the tv (crossover, converters, video game, etc).
But what is your opinion of the triangular boxes?
Nothing wrong with them but as Sreten points out, you are wasting space behind the TV.
You can make a single or dual slot mounted down firing sub with the speakers vertical if you are worried about cone sag.
I can't seem to find any examples of these with a search in the subwoofer forum. The references I find in google are for auto with down firing drivers.
Any links to examples would be helpful.
Some drivers have excessive vent noise and are not good candidates for PP.
The cones may be pointed at each other flat, or in a "V". The plenum can be made smaller if the cones are pointed at each other, allowing more cabinet volume than a PP.
Using Hornresp and modeling the slot plenum as a stubby horn you can get an idea if the plenum resonance will be a problem for the desired crossover point you choose.
The example below could be elevated and down firing, or the "V" could be open to fire forward.
Art
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I don't quite get the plenum (slot loaded) area. Can this be thought of as a single driver mount? In other words, is everything that's "behind" the two drivers all one big shared space?
To simplify, if I assume a sealed enclosed with a push-pull (cones pointed to each other to reduce plenum size) then the following would work if the floating structure was sealed to the front "baffle" with a cut-out around the plenum.
And further, if that's true, then the model would be as for a single driver but twice the enclosure volume.
(Excuse the lame drawing as I never fully understood sketchup, either.)
To simplify, if I assume a sealed enclosed with a push-pull (cones pointed to each other to reduce plenum size) then the following would work if the floating structure was sealed to the front "baffle" with a cut-out around the plenum.
And further, if that's true, then the model would be as for a single driver but twice the enclosure volume.
(Excuse the lame drawing as I never fully understood sketchup, either.)
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"Push Push" cones are pointed towards each other, "push pull" drivers have one cone pointing at the other driver's magnet.
The plenum should be modeled as two drivers in an offset horn.
The cabinet can be shared or dual, sealed or BR.
I am interested in hearing more from #13 as there were failures in the PPSL thread from lack of design knowledge and I fear that as well. Can someone with experience confirm that it's safe to think of the plenum edge mounting as a single driver? In other words, seal around the rectangular edge to the baffle.
I used face-to-face which would be wired out of phase so that it would still be push-pull. The reason for this is to reduce the plenum area due to my small box constraints as recommended by #10.
I used face-to-face which would be wired out of phase so that it would still be push-pull. The reason for this is to reduce the plenum area due to my small box constraints as recommended by #10.
Not following you, the plenum exit contains the output of both drivers.
Both drivers, if facing each other, should be wired in polarity.
If they are "push pull" (which cancels even order harmonic distortion, leaving the non-musical odd order distortion) the reversed cone should be reversed in polarity.
Regarding post # 13, my isobaric PP TQWP Totem sub is quite different
.
It's that a problem of the push-pull isobarics? Can you link to some notes or paper on that issue (isobaric distortions types). Regards.
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