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Old 16th January 2013, 03:56 AM   #1
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Default Help with sub box build

I am working on a new sound quality home theatre/music system.

My previous high end audio experience was with an IASCA sound quality vehicle, completely different to the home I know but would like to achieve something similar in my home. I watch movies and listen to music 50/50, my music should sound like the concert is right in my living room with good sound staging and life like natural sound, no artificially added brightness.

I would like to use the two IDQ D4 v2 10" subs that I currently own from my former SQ vehicle. Spec sheet is attached.

I also have a Bash 300 watt plate amp.

I am thinking of a dual 10" sub box with the plate amp installed to power them.

I have access to a full workshop but I am totally new to this.

How big should the box be? sealed? would interior bracing be required, if so how much? How much foam is required? How do I wire the two subs into the amp and what parts are needed? Any other key points would be appreciated.

Based on the given size do I have to take into account the space occupied by interior bracing and the amp to maintain the amount of required space?

Is there an ideal box shape? Is there an ideal direction the subs should fire since they are car audio, would indirect vs. direct matter?

Thank you for expertise,
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File Type: jpg IDQ10 D4 V.2 Spec Sheet.jpg (68.6 KB, 160 views)
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Old 16th January 2013, 05:29 AM   #2
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The spec. sheet you have, has all the information you need.

Are you talking about a typical car subwoofer box? OR something more at home in your livingroom?

The BASH 300 appears to be a stereo input/mono output Sub-amp. It only has 1 pr. of output leads.
Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier 300-750

Nothing wrong with that. Most modern music has mono bass anyway. However 60's - 70's music often has very different L & R bass tracks.

You'd connect the 2 drivers either in parallel or series, depending on your design, But the sound will be mono.

If this is your 1st. adventure with a subwoofer, then a car sub box will work fine. Later you might want to consider a stereo subwoofer, or 2 separate sub enclosures.

MLStrand56
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Old 16th January 2013, 05:30 AM   #3
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BR or sealed.
Specs show for a sealed enclosure 0.55ft³ = 15.574L.
2x Woofers need twice (2x) Int.volume (32 L).
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File Type: jpg IDQ10 D4 V.2 Sealed vs. Ported Calculator.jpg (46.8 KB, 156 views)
File Type: jpg IDQ10 D4 V.2 Spec Sheet_box.jpg (96.8 KB, 155 views)
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Old 18th January 2013, 03:56 AM   #4
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This will be for at home in my living room home theatre for movies and music. Music will be mostly rock, indy, alternative and electronic.

2 separate enclosures will cost too much at this time and I have the plate amp so I would like to stick with dual.
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Old 20th January 2013, 08:23 PM   #5
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A 0.7ft³ = 20L (each driver/volume) large enclosure looks better because the free space F3 is 44Hz (vs. F3=48Hz with 0.55ft³ = 15.5L for the normal vol. of the enclosure specifications).
So, for home, building a large enclosure with minimum size (note that this is the interior volume not counting with the extra volume for driver and interior bracing) 40L as in specs sheet would be better, make it 50 or 60L (1.7/2.1ft³) (2xdrivers) to take advantage of the low extension.
In your case also an isobaric would not be a bad idea.
Look at isobaric systems and 4th order bandpass systems (SUBS).
I am convinced that the best musical system is the sealed one but you need the large box.
"El Uglito" - a 4th order bandpass system
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Old 20th January 2013, 09:13 PM   #6
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Thanks Inductor thats really great info, I will build to the 2.1 cu.ft. sealed and braced with subs on opposing ends, plate amp on the side.

Hope to complete it this week.
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Old 21st January 2013, 01:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
with subs on opposing ends
In this case simulate first (software) or have somebody with more experience to tell you how to connect the correct phase (+/-) to the drivers. It's said that the wave on 4Pi gets nulls.
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Old 21st January 2013, 05:29 AM   #8
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With opposing subs I was advised to wire them each for an 8 ohm load, wire them in parallel and connect them to the 300w bash amp with speaker wire.

The wiring is not my area of knowledge but I have a retired electrician friend who I will be relying on to help me with this once I give him this info...
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Old 21st January 2013, 12:19 PM   #9
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Great you are getting some help...
MonsterSub | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
What I meant was that if you are mounting one woofer in the back/side "" with subs on opposing ends, plate amp on the side."" test it (one) with inverted polarity also. The back wave it's said to make nulls. You can test one woofer same polarity and inverted to compare. It depends very much of the distance of the wave and enclosure dimensions.
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Old 21st January 2013, 01:39 PM   #10
bjorno is offline bjorno  Sweden
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Hi,All

FYI:
I dug up an old simulation attempt using 2 of the IDQ D4 v2 drivers in a OD ML-TL box:
If the flared port at the input/output is substituted using a straight tube, then the max output power for the box is ~cut in half and limited by
the Port Air Velocity.

b
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File Type: jpg IDQ10-D4V2.JPG (490.9 KB, 86 views)
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