I am working on a new sound quality home theatre/music system.
My previous high end audio experience was with an IASCA sound quality vehicle, completely different to the home I know but would like to achieve something similar in my home. I watch movies and listen to music 50/50, my music should sound like the concert is right in my living room with good sound staging and life like natural sound, no artificially added brightness.
I would like to use the two IDQ D4 v2 10" subs that I currently own from my former SQ vehicle. Spec sheet is attached.
I also have a Bash 300 watt plate amp.
I am thinking of a dual 10" sub box with the plate amp installed to power them.
I have access to a full workshop but I am totally new to this.
How big should the box be? sealed? would interior bracing be required, if so how much? How much foam is required? How do I wire the two subs into the amp and what parts are needed? Any other key points would be appreciated.
Based on the given size do I have to take into account the space occupied by interior bracing and the amp to maintain the amount of required space?
Is there an ideal box shape? Is there an ideal direction the subs should fire since they are car audio, would indirect vs. direct matter?
Thank you for expertise,
My previous high end audio experience was with an IASCA sound quality vehicle, completely different to the home I know but would like to achieve something similar in my home. I watch movies and listen to music 50/50, my music should sound like the concert is right in my living room with good sound staging and life like natural sound, no artificially added brightness.
I would like to use the two IDQ D4 v2 10" subs that I currently own from my former SQ vehicle. Spec sheet is attached.
I also have a Bash 300 watt plate amp.
I am thinking of a dual 10" sub box with the plate amp installed to power them.
I have access to a full workshop but I am totally new to this.
How big should the box be? sealed? would interior bracing be required, if so how much? How much foam is required? How do I wire the two subs into the amp and what parts are needed? Any other key points would be appreciated.
Based on the given size do I have to take into account the space occupied by interior bracing and the amp to maintain the amount of required space?
Is there an ideal box shape? Is there an ideal direction the subs should fire since they are car audio, would indirect vs. direct matter?
Thank you for expertise,
Attachments
The spec. sheet you have, has all the information you need.
Are you talking about a typical car subwoofer box? OR something more at home in your livingroom?
The BASH 300 appears to be a stereo input/mono output Sub-amp. It only has 1 pr. of output leads.
Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier 300-750
Nothing wrong with that. Most modern music has mono bass anyway. However 60's - 70's music often has very different L & R bass tracks.
You'd connect the 2 drivers either in parallel or series, depending on your design, But the sound will be mono.
If this is your 1st. adventure with a subwoofer, then a car sub box will work fine. Later you might want to consider a stereo subwoofer, or 2 separate sub enclosures.
MLStrand56
Are you talking about a typical car subwoofer box? OR something more at home in your livingroom?
The BASH 300 appears to be a stereo input/mono output Sub-amp. It only has 1 pr. of output leads.
Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier 300-750
Nothing wrong with that. Most modern music has mono bass anyway. However 60's - 70's music often has very different L & R bass tracks.
You'd connect the 2 drivers either in parallel or series, depending on your design, But the sound will be mono.
If this is your 1st. adventure with a subwoofer, then a car sub box will work fine. Later you might want to consider a stereo subwoofer, or 2 separate sub enclosures.
MLStrand56
A 0.7ft³ = 20L (each driver/volume) large enclosure looks better because the free space F3 is 44Hz (vs. F3=48Hz with 0.55ft³ = 15.5L for the normal vol. of the enclosure specifications).
So, for home, building a large enclosure with minimum size (note that this is the interior volume not counting with the extra volume for driver and interior bracing) 40L as in specs sheet would be better, make it 50 or 60L (1.7/2.1ft³) (2xdrivers) to take advantage of the low extension.
In your case also an isobaric would not be a bad idea.
Look at isobaric systems and 4th order bandpass systems (SUBS).
I am convinced that the best musical system is the sealed one but you need the large box.
"El Uglito" - a 4th order bandpass system
So, for home, building a large enclosure with minimum size (note that this is the interior volume not counting with the extra volume for driver and interior bracing) 40L as in specs sheet would be better, make it 50 or 60L (1.7/2.1ft³) (2xdrivers) to take advantage of the low extension.
In your case also an isobaric would not be a bad idea.
Look at isobaric systems and 4th order bandpass systems (SUBS).
I am convinced that the best musical system is the sealed one but you need the large box.
"El Uglito" - a 4th order bandpass system
With opposing subs I was advised to wire them each for an 8 ohm load, wire them in parallel and connect them to the 300w bash amp with speaker wire.
The wiring is not my area of knowledge but I have a retired electrician friend who I will be relying on to help me with this once I give him this info...
The wiring is not my area of knowledge but I have a retired electrician friend who I will be relying on to help me with this once I give him this info...
Great you are getting some help...
MonsterSub | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
What I meant was that if you are mounting one woofer in the back/side "" with subs on opposing ends, plate amp on the side."" test it (one) with inverted polarity also. The back wave it's said to make nulls. You can test one woofer same polarity and inverted to compare. It depends very much of the distance of the wave and enclosure dimensions.
MonsterSub | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
What I meant was that if you are mounting one woofer in the back/side "" with subs on opposing ends, plate amp on the side."" test it (one) with inverted polarity also. The back wave it's said to make nulls. You can test one woofer same polarity and inverted to compare. It depends very much of the distance of the wave and enclosure dimensions.
bjorno,
This project you posted looks awesome. I hope OP takes advantage of it with a few pictures and final observations.
Thank you Inductor
. If someone move the simulation into Sketchup or a Cad: program,the unclear ? dimensioning of the Port system would be much more clearer....Here are more on the same subject: A lot more numbers to dig into
b
Attachments
DOH...
bjorno,
I learn so much from your posts.
Things like several mistakes and bad assumptions that I made in building the first Lab 12 OD_ML_TL.
I was wondering why the stuffing material was so hard to fluff up enough to fill almost the entire line, and
I have finally come to fully understand port end effect corrections, and it is not the same as when modelling intakes on 2 stroke engines as I was thinking it may be.
Thank you,
Dave....Hmmm?
bjorno,
I learn so much from your posts.
Things like several mistakes and bad assumptions that I made in building the first Lab 12 OD_ML_TL.
I was wondering why the stuffing material was so hard to fluff up enough to fill almost the entire line
, andI have finally come to fully understand port end effect corrections, and it is not the same as when modelling intakes on 2 stroke engines as I was thinking it may be.
Thank you,
Dave....Hmmm?
Thank you for the help, the project is underway! I will post with results and pics.
Now I need to find a new receiver...
Sound quality for music is my most important requirement with easy calibration and room correction. Good Home theatre audio quality is a bonus but I am willing to separate HT entirely or sacrifice this for best music sound.
I mostly listen to rock (elvis - classic - punk - metal - alt/indy rock) and ALL types of electronic.
First a few things I would like:
- I dont want a receiver that will colour or brighten sound, natural the way the music was recorded would be ideal.
- Very good EQ to balance and correct sound within a room as needed easily.
- Cool running.
- With HT I want to make sure that I dont have to crank volume to hear voices in movies and then sounds effects are too loud (current old low end sony sucks for this). Also HT should have THX.
- Best Value for the $, my budget is $600.
- 4ohm stability. My subwoofer is two ID 10" 4ohm subs in custom box with 300watt bash plate amp so this would not require 4ohm stability. I have nice car audio ID CSX64 co ac speakers that I would like to build boxes for home. I would like to be able to use high end home audio speakers at 8 ohm in the future as money allows.
I am currently looking at the Onkyo 709, is this the best option in my budget?
Any suggestions on good receivers, and where to buy, would be appreciated.
Thanks
Now I need to find a new receiver...
Sound quality for music is my most important requirement with easy calibration and room correction. Good Home theatre audio quality is a bonus but I am willing to separate HT entirely or sacrifice this for best music sound.
I mostly listen to rock (elvis - classic - punk - metal - alt/indy rock) and ALL types of electronic.
First a few things I would like:
- I dont want a receiver that will colour or brighten sound, natural the way the music was recorded would be ideal.
- Very good EQ to balance and correct sound within a room as needed easily.
- Cool running.
- With HT I want to make sure that I dont have to crank volume to hear voices in movies and then sounds effects are too loud (current old low end sony sucks for this). Also HT should have THX.
- Best Value for the $, my budget is $600.
- 4ohm stability. My subwoofer is two ID 10" 4ohm subs in custom box with 300watt bash plate amp so this would not require 4ohm stability. I have nice car audio ID CSX64 co ac speakers that I would like to build boxes for home. I would like to be able to use high end home audio speakers at 8 ohm in the future as money allows.
I am currently looking at the Onkyo 709, is this the best option in my budget?
Any suggestions on good receivers, and where to buy, would be appreciated.
Thanks
No not really, home audio is all new to me so I am looking for some suggestions. As mentioned my previous experience is onlu with an IASCA winning sound quality vehicle.
I was thinking of using the 709 for now, my sub has a plate amp, and adding amps for other speakers using the pre outs as I get the $. Unless there are better suggestions. Any assistance is appreciated as I only wish to buy each poece once for a long time.
Thanks
I was thinking of using the 709 for now, my sub has a plate amp, and adding amps for other speakers using the pre outs as I get the $. Unless there are better suggestions. Any assistance is appreciated as I only wish to buy each poece once for a long time.
Thanks
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