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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: massachusetts
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this will be used for home theater type uses, playing games, and listening to some music. I value sound quality over boomyness/volume. preferably good frequency response at low volume
I was planning on making the box small-ish as practical as space is at an unfortunate premium at my living arrangements around 2 feet in any one direction would be ideal but i can go a bit larger * Piston Diameter = 266.7 mm * f(s)= 29.61 Hz * R(e)= 2.52 Ohms * Z(max)= 42.07 Ohms * Q(ms)= 3.676 * Q(es)= 0.674 * Q(ts)= 0.570 * V(as)= 39.600 liters (1.399 cubic feet) * L(e)= 1.33 mH * n(0)= 0.15 % * SPL= 94.73 1W/1m * M(ms)= 319.70 grams * C(ms)= 0.09 mm/N * BL= 23.99 *Xmax= 25.4 mm Other info: LMS coil technology 3" copper clad aluminum voice coil, single wind @ 2.5ohms, aluminum cone from a GZ plutonium sub, high roll rubber surround 12 spoke 12" basket, custom motor made from a 3 x .750" Y32 ferrite stack, TC9 T yoke with a full copper shorting ring pressed over the poll, TC7 top plate @ .500" thick (spec for LMS coil). Max power on that sub is around 600wrms but closer to 1000wrms I think im on the right track? I am completely new to enclosure design |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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The ported response looks fine, as long as it is within the driver's excursion and power limits, and you are satisfied that the output is adequate with the power available to drive the sub.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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The BR looks bad on paper and my gut tells me that the closed one is better.
Now, my EBP software recommendation is sealed (43). ![]() Edit: anyway if used as a sub with it's own amp (BR) and not as a "stereo" the thing is different. More SPL on the lower end. What's the name of the driver, if it makes any difference... WTF? Last edited by Inductor; 12th January 2013 at 08:10 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: massachusetts
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the driver doesnt have any official name as it was custom made for me by a friend. those t/s specs were measured using some kind of measurement tool/software. i think he was giving a max power estimate. regardless at time of building and now still its irrelevant as im going to operate it with a 200w amp(an independant amp). im after signal quality at volumes that are acceptable to the neighbors not dB
only reference to a model is TC9/7/3hp-12-s2.5 sealed enclosure works very well for me as im nowhere near a carpenter, simple is good =) |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
)if desired.The difference of around 8 dB at 20 Hz would mean the BR would sound more than twice as loud as the sealed enclosure down that low, where your ears are far less sensitive. It would require about 1000 watts (and an 8 dB EQ boost) for the sealed enclosure to achieve the same level as the BR using 200 watts. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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FYI:
Check the T/S parameters...b
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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Quote:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: massachusetts
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looks a lot like those
ill have to find out whats up with the t/s specs unless its simple to figure out. could have been a transcription error of some kind its a little dirty as my life got busy the last few months and it was sitting around in a semi open box all that ferrite makes it awfully heavy for its size thats for sure -- he sent me a spare spider and voice coil i could take pictures of or measure if needed/wanted but i doubt that'd be useful at all Last edited by ryuji; 13th January 2013 at 02:35 AM. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: massachusetts
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Quote:
Qts = 0.43 Qes = 0.46 Qms = 6.7 Fs = 28 Res = 3.96 Ls = 4.7 Lp = 7.7 Rp = 5.1 Dia = 250 Vas = 39 mms = 280 cms = 115 bl = 20.5 SplSens = 84.5 time to play around and produce new graphs to look at i guess
Last edited by ryuji; 13th January 2013 at 03:32 PM. |
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