My sub for this challenge:
B stock Skar Audio VVX-12 $140
Behringer NU1000DSP 258
12"x48" Sonotube from HD or Lowes $10
1 4x8 3/4 sheet of MDF from HD or Lowes $35
4"x24" pvc pipe from HD or Lowes $6
1 tube silicone sealant $6
1 bottle Gorilla Glue $6
10 ft 12 gauge speaker cable $8
32 ounces Polyester stuffing from walmart $10
$479
Cut a 26" section of sonotube to act as your enclosure.
Cut two endcaps for your sonosub per this video that will also serve as feet.
Cheap and Easy Subwoofer - Build Your Own - YouTube!
Cut a 17" length of pvc tubing to act as your port. This will tune your enclosure to 24 hz. Mounting depth on the sub is 6.5-7 inches depending on how you mount which will leave you 2" between the end of your port and back of your woofer. Flare both ends of your pvc pipe per youtube vids. Glue your polyester to the walls of the tube as best you can.
Glue and seal everything together run your speaker cable out of your port.
This sub ends up being 44.48 liters and roughly 12x26 plus whatever shape you make your endcaps to use as feet.
You end up with 113db from 23-100 hz anechoic at 600 watts. Models extremely flat. I have measured 125 db at a listening position about 5ft away using my behringer esp4000.
So 44.48 litres or 2.7cu ft, 113db at 25 hz 4pi, with 600 watts.
No cheating anywhere, all of this can be had at these prices today.
B stock Skar Audio VVX-12 $140
Behringer NU1000DSP 258
12"x48" Sonotube from HD or Lowes $10
1 4x8 3/4 sheet of MDF from HD or Lowes $35
4"x24" pvc pipe from HD or Lowes $6
1 tube silicone sealant $6
1 bottle Gorilla Glue $6
10 ft 12 gauge speaker cable $8
32 ounces Polyester stuffing from walmart $10
$479
Cut a 26" section of sonotube to act as your enclosure.
Cut two endcaps for your sonosub per this video that will also serve as feet.
Cheap and Easy Subwoofer - Build Your Own - YouTube!
Cut a 17" length of pvc tubing to act as your port. This will tune your enclosure to 24 hz. Mounting depth on the sub is 6.5-7 inches depending on how you mount which will leave you 2" between the end of your port and back of your woofer. Flare both ends of your pvc pipe per youtube vids. Glue your polyester to the walls of the tube as best you can.
Glue and seal everything together run your speaker cable out of your port.
This sub ends up being 44.48 liters and roughly 12x26 plus whatever shape you make your endcaps to use as feet.
You end up with 113db from 23-100 hz anechoic at 600 watts. Models extremely flat. I have measured 125 db at a listening position about 5ft away using my behringer esp4000.
So 44.48 litres or 2.7cu ft, 113db at 25 hz 4pi, with 600 watts.
No cheating anywhere, all of this can be had at these prices today.
8 'J-Audio' generic car subs @$40 each: $200
8 x LM 3886 wired for 1 ohm speaker duty: $100
MDF 8x4: $20
Wood for frame behind baffle: $25
Rockwool stuffing: $40
Cables, carpenter's fees and misc: $100, give or take.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I cheated by using a ceiling loft that was to be converted to a set of closets, but used one 9 cu ft space for the sub instead (other, bigger spaces still got converted and those are to the left and right). I also cheated by using tons of PSU components, heatsinks and cables I had in my junk collection.
There's a 4-legged frame holding this thing from jumping off the wall. It's fully sealed because driver data was non-existent so I just stuffed these in the loft and prayed. I did have a full return guarantee on the drivers, but the woodwork and stuffing was pretty pricey so I was really keeping fingers crossed.
The sub is controlled and equalised by Audyssey in my receiver, and it shows flat to 23Hz in-room in the EQ settings. This is a sim run very kindly by Oliver while I was trying to design this (that's a plot at 1W, not full power): http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ivers-vs-single-driver-sub-5.html#post3163311
The amp should be good for 200W into this load at a very conservative estimate. I don't have measurements though I have run high power sine tests. After reaching -12dB I can't turn the volume up because everything in the room starts rattling. During normal use you really can't reach reference 0dB levels because the room isn't good enough (messy bachelor den) though I get very satisfactory results even at -15 during daytime use. Nighttime levels are obviously much lower, to the tune of -42 and the bass even that those levels is clear and articulate. I guess because all the woofers and the amp are operating so far below their threshold levels that distortion is never a problem.
Working on a grill to hide the butt-ugly drivers.
8 x LM 3886 wired for 1 ohm speaker duty: $100
MDF 8x4: $20
Wood for frame behind baffle: $25
Rockwool stuffing: $40
Cables, carpenter's fees and misc: $100, give or take.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I cheated by using a ceiling loft that was to be converted to a set of closets, but used one 9 cu ft space for the sub instead (other, bigger spaces still got converted and those are to the left and right). I also cheated by using tons of PSU components, heatsinks and cables I had in my junk collection.
There's a 4-legged frame holding this thing from jumping off the wall. It's fully sealed because driver data was non-existent so I just stuffed these in the loft and prayed. I did have a full return guarantee on the drivers, but the woodwork and stuffing was pretty pricey so I was really keeping fingers crossed.
The sub is controlled and equalised by Audyssey in my receiver, and it shows flat to 23Hz in-room in the EQ settings. This is a sim run very kindly by Oliver while I was trying to design this (that's a plot at 1W, not full power): http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ivers-vs-single-driver-sub-5.html#post3163311
The amp should be good for 200W into this load at a very conservative estimate. I don't have measurements though I have run high power sine tests. After reaching -12dB I can't turn the volume up because everything in the room starts rattling. During normal use you really can't reach reference 0dB levels because the room isn't good enough (messy bachelor den) though I get very satisfactory results even at -15 during daytime use. Nighttime levels are obviously much lower, to the tune of -42 and the bass even that those levels is clear and articulate. I guess because all the woofers and the amp are operating so far below their threshold levels that distortion is never a problem.
Working on a grill to hide the butt-ugly drivers.
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How does 8 x $40 come out to $200 for the drivers? What size/model driver are you using?
Yeah they do have a 12 at about $40 (which was where the 40 came from). They also have a 15 and a 8.
I bought them from my local store (In Calcutta, India) which sometimes gets some halfway usable drivers.
You should be able to find something similar in local car audio stores or on eBay:
Boss Audio CX10 600 w 10 inch 4 Ohm Voice Coils Chaos Subwoofer 300 w RMS 791489114035 | eBay
Pyle PLW10BL 10" 600 Watt Blue Label Subwoofer New 068888720113 | eBay
The drivers only have a 40mm voice coil, no venting under the spider. They do have a very long stroke due to to double magnets and some venting behind the pole piece, but I wouldn't trust them with more than 70-80W each as they begin to fart below 25Hz. Combining a bunch of them was the only way they would be able to do anything at all in this room.
I bought them from my local store (In Calcutta, India) which sometimes gets some halfway usable drivers.
You should be able to find something similar in local car audio stores or on eBay:
Boss Audio CX10 600 w 10 inch 4 Ohm Voice Coils Chaos Subwoofer 300 w RMS 791489114035 | eBay
Pyle PLW10BL 10" 600 Watt Blue Label Subwoofer New 068888720113 | eBay
The drivers only have a 40mm voice coil, no venting under the spider. They do have a very long stroke due to to double magnets and some venting behind the pole piece, but I wouldn't trust them with more than 70-80W each as they begin to fart below 25Hz. Combining a bunch of them was the only way they would be able to do anything at all in this room.
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Bridged crown xls1000 (20% off coupon) $250, B-stock $200 1100 watts @ 4ohm
MCM 21" X2 $ $240
Cut hole in "solid door" to another room/closet or ceiling IB... cheat
OK I like this one. I'm going to give it a shot at a friend's house. It should do a nice job of fattening up his Sonus Faber Cremonas.
According to the original rules, my tub sub in #8 won, and was the only sub actually built and measured.
As far as the imaginary subs, Jbell's in post #25 is the winner of the revised rules made after the OP decided that a toy Bose sub was to be the metric of comparison, even though no actual measurements of that sub's output were presented
.
Strange, never saw the notfications, great that you guys picked a winner!!
Raise you one
It's ~200 into 2 ohms, two banks of amps and drivers. The auto-calibration reduces subs to -6dB and the max I've ever pushed it to is about -10dB (when not showing off), so I doubt it crosses 50-60W output ever.
The only reason for the massive parallelling was to ensure the chips didn't self-destruct when driving such a low load.
Nope, just 4 chips in parallel per 4 drivers, for 2 ohm driving capability. Nothing fancy.
See a far more extreme example here:
7x TDA7293 in Parallel 555W Mono Power Amplifier Board Assembled | eBay
The guy from Calcutta with the chip amp putting out over 200 watts at 1 ohm ...
Raise you one
It's ~200 into 2 ohms, two banks of amps and drivers. The auto-calibration reduces subs to -6dB and the max I've ever pushed it to is about -10dB (when not showing off), so I doubt it crosses 50-60W output ever.
The only reason for the massive parallelling was to ensure the chips didn't self-destruct when driving such a low load.
Sweet, must be a custom chip made chimp hair, eye of newt and 99.99999% pure pyrite
Nope, just 4 chips in parallel per 4 drivers, for 2 ohm driving capability. Nothing fancy.
See a far more extreme example here:
7x TDA7293 in Parallel 555W Mono Power Amplifier Board Assembled | eBay
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