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Old 8th January 2013, 07:52 PM   #21
GM is offline GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonfly View Post
Then 135 litre cabinet tuned to 20 hz will give you about 105db flat to about 20hz with 100 watts. 45 litres is too small. Is 135 litres to big (I suspect so), what sort of cab size do you want.
Hmm, with its high inductance, there's no way it will be flat to 20 Hz in a simple reflex unless room boundary gain happens to be just right to mirror the speaker's falling response adn/or eat up power handling with EQ.

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Old 8th January 2013, 08:21 PM   #22
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So you don't think it's worth spending maybe ~$150 for a new set of cabinets for these woofers?

In worst case scenario there's a pair of used ScanSpeak Revelator 26W/8861T00 for sale for ~$352 excluding shipping which will be another ~$50 or so. But that's like the very upper end of my total budget.

Edit: Remember, if needed I can measure the in-room response with the subs and EQ down peaks with a MiniDSP.
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Last edited by Rullknufs; 8th January 2013 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 8th January 2013, 08:36 PM   #23
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Hmm, with its high inductance, there's no way it will be flat to 20 Hz in a simple reflex unless room boundary gain happens to be just right to mirror the speaker's falling response adn/or eat up power handling with EQ.

GM
Well that disagree with the simulation, which actually shows an elevate peak at tuning with a 20hz tune in that cabinet. Dont forget that the larger cabinet is much more efficient and needs less power, which plays into this drivers hands a bit as its more suited to that design.
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Old 9th January 2013, 01:40 AM   #24
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So you don't think it's worth spending maybe ~$150 for a new set of cabinets for these woofers?
$150?! I thought decent wood was cheap in Scandinavia.

Regardless, I only know what the published specs imply, which is it theoretically should go down to a ~18-20 Hz Fb with decent performance overall in a MLTL whereas a simple reflex of a similar net Vb will ideally need a very long, well damped vent that will negate at least some of the large cab's LF gain BW in the process.

1st sim is an end loaded ~93” path-length [48” o.d. high] MLTL, 2nd sim is same with offset driver, vent. 3rd sim is same net Vb, tuning in a golden ratio reflex. All these sims use the same stuffing density. 4th sim is heavily damped reflex.

Of the four, the end loaded MLTL is somewhat better damped than the damped reflex and other MLTL and ~ an order of magnitude better than the reflex, so would be my choice on principle, though no clue how audible any differences may be, if any, once any driver specs variance combined with the XO and in room acoustical conditions are accounted for.

Note that some would argue that the 4th sim is probably the best for a typical room’s gain curve, but personally, I like to have as much acoustical gain as practical and attenuate if need be, lowering any potentially audible distortion rather than boosting/increasing it, or worse, running out of dynamic headroom.

You can probably attenuate the reflex’s peak with digital EQ, but it’s not the same as doing it acoustically, though down this low it may not matter, but then I’m a believer in acoustical solutions for acoustical problems, so prefer to ‘err on the side of caution’ just in case.

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Old 9th January 2013, 01:46 AM   #25
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Well that disagree with the simulation, which actually shows an elevate peak at tuning with a 20hz tune in that cabinet. Dont forget that the larger cabinet is much more efficient and needs less power, which plays into this drivers hands a bit as its more suited to that design.
See my 3rd and 4th sims, neither are flat to 20 Hz as you claimed and the 3rd sim is pretty much useless IME, so we for sure disagree.

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Old 11th January 2013, 07:36 PM   #26
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If keeping my current woofers is a horribly bad idea, then what else would you recommend?

I found the Dayton DVC385-88 for $309 with would fit well in a ~100l sealed box. -3dB at ~37Hz but since it has quite a lot of xmax I can EQ it down to 30Hz without problems.

Maxspl at 30Hz is 108dB.

If I manage to sell my current woofers for $150, buy the dayton for ~$320 including shipping, a Behringer iNuke3000 for $360 and a MiniDSP for $180. Cabinet material another $150 and it's a total cost of $860 which is... Quite much for me actually.
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Old 11th January 2013, 11:12 PM   #27
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£400, plus cabinet, without selling your current drivers.

DVC385-88 - Dayton 15 inch DVC Shielded Series Subwoofer - Europe Audio
Behringer NU3000DSP Inuke 3000W Power Amplifier with DSP Control: Amazon.co.uk: Musical Instruments

Shop around a little.


Going all the way back to basics, instead of throwing random driver/amp configurations around.
How low?
How loud?
How much money?
How big?
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Old 12th January 2013, 09:44 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris661 View Post
£400, plus cabinet, without selling your current drivers.

DVC385-88 - Dayton 15 inch DVC Shielded Series Subwoofer - Europe Audio
Behringer NU3000DSP Inuke 3000W Power Amplifier with DSP Control: Amazon.co.uk: Musical Instruments

Shop around a little.


Going all the way back to basics, instead of throwing random driver/amp configurations around.
How low?
How loud?
How much money?
How big?
I want rock-solid down to at least 30Hz. Thinking of putting the XO at either 60 or 80Hz.
~108-110dB or more 30Hz and above. I want headroom.
Maximum 5000-5500SEK or ~$800 or ~£500.
About 100-120l is the largest I want to deal with. Driver size not so important as long as it can do what I stated above, but I guess I need at least a 12" driver.
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Old 12th January 2013, 03:38 PM   #29
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Or there is a pair of Pioneer s-w250sw for sale for $1080/pair not too far away from where I live. That's the very upper limit and then it's just plug and play.

Anybody has any experience with that model? 12" with a 12" PR.
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Old 12th January 2013, 03:49 PM   #30
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No experience with that Pioneer. See if you can have a listen. IMHO, you could probably get better sound for less money, but those have a rather nice form factor that's hard to argue with. A pair of them would, I expect, be able to do what you ask of them.
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