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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
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Hey guyz! i am peparing a samll sub for my home which contains 5 inch driver. Its an active sub powered by TDA2030 and NE5532 as low pass filter. The enclosure type is ported with T-Line design. Now, my question is about, what type of damping material should i use to make it sound better and how to apply fiber glass/glass wool on T-line design . does it really helpful? I read it that damping material acts like having a large enclosure for driver. what should i do? do i install damping material or just it ok as it is? please guyz help me to sort it out soon.
Regards Girish Rai Vasuja |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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T-Line design. Some people have some more experience. Try to follow projects in other threads. I'm more used to the BR or sealed box.
Generally speaking "internal absorption using absorptive materials (often called "damping"), such as glass wool, wool, or synthetic fiber batting, within the enclosure". Loudspeaker - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Try to avoid using glass wool and use rockwool instead. Wool it's a very "high quality" damping material, very efficient. Try using a website for various ideas (materials) of what you are doing (go also to the main TL websites). Click below to go to TL example: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/download/ATR25.pdf |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I believe in a line you want to use very light material, not rockwool, standard fiberglass or even Acousta-stuff Polyfill ETC..
Although the very lightest fiberglass is about right.(I believe R-19, 6" thick wall batts) Something between 0.4 and 0.5 lbs. per ft.^3. . A very good material is long hair wool. This will do about 2 ft.^3 The Madisound Speaker Store Dave
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<---My Transmission Lines from a prior life Top one Tweeter...Bottom one definitely a Sub Last edited by Shadydave; 3rd January 2013 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Speilling again |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I use fiberglass ceiling tiles with the plastic peeled off. Easy to cut with a razor knife. Glued on with spray adhesive.
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#6 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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You can do what Scott says and leave the plastic on. Just glue the plastic side to the cabinet.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
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Thanx alot guys for helping... but do i really need damping material as my sub is only 5.25 inches??
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
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Dampening is normally done in the top half (nearer the closed end) to smooth ripples caused by the line. This is above the bass frequencies. Fill doesn't help much at lower frequency. It becomes less effective as frequency goes down. Some TL modeling programs can model this.
To much fill can cause loss of bass output. This is often adjusted to help adjust the speaker to a room. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Md
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My tests showed fiberglass to be great, but I don't use it in any ported enclosure as I don't want the speaker pumping tiny pieces of glass into the air. So, I use wool or the expensive boutique Daycron. (Acoustastuff) The craft store polyfill is totally useless.
Even if you don't progressively damp the TL, I would stuff the chamber behind fairly firmly to smooth out the reflections. My big panel absorbers are made of damaged discounted ceiling tiles. Got them for about half. Three layers, layer of cotton batting, and wow! I don't have a easy way to get full sheets of OC panels. Just wondering Grv, how do you expect a 5 inch driver to act as a sub? Even if the chart says it can be tuned that low, it would have to move inches. About a 10 is the starting point. Maybe 8 for an under desk low level fill. You just plain have to move more air than a 5 can do. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Vlaanderen
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Interesting to read you say polyfill is useless. Is that the stuff I find in pillows and filter the water in the aquarium with?
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