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#41 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Funny study, thanks for the link. Art |
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#42 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Denmark
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I think at those frequencies we hear with the full body, so while the ears may be less sensitive, we feel the pressure and sound anyway. I am confident that there's actually a lot on info IRL that we miss on recorded material compared to live events.
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#43 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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For the US, NIOSH 98-126 specifies A weighting. Last edited by Don Hills; 18th November 2012 at 11:10 AM. |
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#44 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Quote:
You, sir, are speaking my language. I built a pair of PA's for myself using a tapered horn very similar to the technique pictured in your build (which was very well done, I might add). My current most likely option, depending on wood costs, is to do something like this. I've been a bit intimidated though, because of the gigantic proportions needed to reach 10 Hz. If you say your build got down to 16 Hz reasonably well, I'm sure a little adjustment could get me down a bit farther and I am willing to compromise. I was actually planning to compose mostly with Max/MSP, actually. However, I don't quite understand what you mean when you mention using a patch to manage dsp? Could you explain a bit further? |
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#45 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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I am pretty sure that I will have to compromise and make my targe frequency above 10hz. I was thinking perhaps somewhere between 12 and 16. Things are a bit more manageable in that area. Do you have plans for that build, btw? |
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#46 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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#47 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
In room, cabin gain can make up for some of the roll off. Tom Danley gave away the Labsub (Live Audio Board) sub design when he came up with tapped horns. The Emminence Lab 12, designed for the Labsub, also works very well in low tuned tapped horns. A tapped horn can go far lower per size than a front loaded horn, it does not depend on a huge mouth to go low and loud. This is evident in that the Gjallerhorn is not much larger than the LabSub, but goes considerably lower and louder. Art |
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#48 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: München, Bavaria, Germany
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Quote:
__________________
Regards, James |
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#49 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: München, Bavaria, Germany
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I should be working on a presentation right now, which is why I'd much rather doodle subwoofers on my notepad - here's a quick sketch of something I have in mind:
![]() This one is sketched with efficient usage of 4x8 foot sheets of plywood in mind - I'm assuming you are based in USA like your flag suggests, and this is the size of wood available to you. The two biggest sides are 4x8 foot sheets, and the internal width of the horn is 2 feet. My markings on the doodle are metric though - all in cm. Should be buildable using 5 sheets for the box, plus maybe 1 whole extra sheet (or any scrap wood you have) for bracing - a big box like this is going to need to be very well braced. Here's how hornresp simulates the output, at maximum (100Watts / 3Ohm) with the box placed in a rigid room corner:
__________________
Regards, James |
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#50 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Does only 100 watts make the drivers hit Xmax (13mm)? One note, though a 2 food depth is great for wood use, the Lab 12s are 12.25" and would either need to be put at a bit of an angle, or a divot chiseled (or routed) out at the top and bottom of the speaker mounting location. For a cabinet that big, I'd want to put at least four or even eight 12", 129, 136 dB at 15 Hz in room... Don't try it full tilt boogie in a plaster and lath constructed house unless you plan to rebuild .Art |
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