I use Weldbond.
Thin it out with water and use several coats. I coat the whole surround with it too. If there is a gap you can't bridge with it, use some rice paper to patch things.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thin it out with water and use several coats. I coat the whole surround with it too. If there is a gap you can't bridge with it, use some rice paper to patch things.
Thanks.
I was going to use a two part epoxy, I'm in love with it, but Weldbond or a PVA based glued is the way to go if you have paper and cloth (cellulose) to glue together.
I added water to it, to thin it and help the glue seep into the cracks and spaces.
Works really well. I'm impressed. I also put sock between the basket and the bottom of the cone to hold the cone up, so the cracks were exposed more. Then I took the socks out to let it dry. A lot of JBL 2241 and 2226H 2226 have these problems with the surround and cone coming apart. In fact I have a GTI 1500 (similar to 2226 2225 ) with the same problem. Some one just glued the back of the surround and cone joint with silicone.
Gluing rubber to aluminum I have had success with (Loctite) two part epoxy for plastic.
I was going to use a two part epoxy, I'm in love with it, but Weldbond or a PVA based glued is the way to go if you have paper and cloth (cellulose) to glue together.
I added water to it, to thin it and help the glue seep into the cracks and spaces.
Works really well. I'm impressed. I also put sock between the basket and the bottom of the cone to hold the cone up, so the cracks were exposed more. Then I took the socks out to let it dry. A lot of JBL 2241 and 2226H 2226 have these problems with the surround and cone coming apart. In fact I have a GTI 1500 (similar to 2226 2225 ) with the same problem. Some one just glued the back of the surround and cone joint with silicone.
Gluing rubber to aluminum I have had success with (Loctite) two part epoxy for plastic.
I had a set of four 2225 that were cracked about 80% around the cone edge, mostly the cracks were in the cloth roll itself near the cone edge, and not between the cone and the cloth.
I was able to get another five years of use out of them with Weldbond.
Weldbond is also good with foam edges.
It is not good with rubber.
I was able to get another five years of use out of them with Weldbond.
Weldbond is also good with foam edges.
It is not good with rubber.
I used a flowable silicone rubber for such cracks around the foam and on the foam.
This worked very nicely all that was needed was a very thin layer.
The stuff I used can be had at most any hardware or autoparts store.
It is for the repair of windshield seals.
The one I have is from VersaChem part no.75009.
I have posted this before in another thread with some pictures here,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/203597-ess-woofer-repair.html#post2842877
Cheers !!
jer
This worked very nicely all that was needed was a very thin layer.
The stuff I used can be had at most any hardware or autoparts store.
It is for the repair of windshield seals.
The one I have is from VersaChem part no.75009.
I have posted this before in another thread with some pictures here,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/203597-ess-woofer-repair.html#post2842877
Cheers !!
jer
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i used this in combimation with glue
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Does PVA remain flexible for awhile? I know silicone does. I don't know what to use.
What about this KLH is redope of surrounds needed? - Page 2 - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums :
"Permatex (diluted with lacquer thinner) was the first material we experimented with over at CSP a number of years ago, as it contained a butyl compound similar to what we were looking for. Although it remains tacky for awhile, the gasket sealant eventually forms a membrane....which is the problem with virtually all of the compounds discussed in this forum. Once a membrane forms and stiffens, even to a slight degree, fs increases (sometimes dramatically) compromising the design basis of the acoustic suspension woofer. I have tested and measured many compounds over the past 5 years, and negative results have been consistent.
(Actually, a thin application of Permatex is not bad compared to most other materials mentioned along the way.) It is very often better not to apply anything at all, especially if the speakers are not being pushed to higher volume levels.
After input from a number of knowledgeable sources, including Roy Allison (early AR and Allison speakers...who is in his 90's now), I was able to come up with something much like the original compound. It is nasty to make, and is essentially the same tacky stuff manufacturers used to use to treat ("dope") driver cones and domes to modify response characteristics. It is a non-drying butyl compound diluted in toluene.
Due to the high percentage of toluene, and little demand for this kind of compound today, a commercial product of this type is not readily available.
Vintage AR/Larry Lagace is the only "retail" source of the stuff. AK and CSP forum members are welcome to send me a PM for more information."
-RoyC
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