Do I really need a stiff enclosure??? - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 14th November 2012, 10:34 AM   #1
djn is offline djn  United States
diyAudio Member
 
djn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Waterford Michigan
Default Do I really need a stiff enclosure???

Hi All, I've been looking at all my option for two sub drivers I have. One option was to use two cabs I have already and just convert them. The other option is to use a small storage space that is built into the wall already. It measures approx. 4' x 6' x 3' and the opening is 24" x 24". I was thinking of framing in a very stiff baffle board into the opening and mounting the two subs there.

I already have two subs in the room so this one would be for smoothing.

Here is my question. The enclosure walls are 2x4 and sheet-rock construction but most of it is not in the room so does it matter that it is flimsy by sub cab standards?
__________________
My "Art" website http://home.comcast.net/~djnagle/site/
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 12:42 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
That's similar to an infinite baffle setup. It could work just set a high pass and go easy on the volume to avoid bottoming the drivers.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 01:12 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Well, that's 72 cubes, so unless it's some really odd drivers, they should act like a IB, aperiodic, or very low Q setup. Sheetrock is pretty stiff and damp, just not very strong, should be ok.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 01:21 PM   #4
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Hi djn,

Drivers have been mounted directly into doors (solid core) with foam weatherstripping at the door jamb, leaving the closet usable for storage.

Regards,
__________________
Oliver
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 01:26 PM   #5
Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
 
Cal Weldon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Near Vancouver
Consider lining the space with plywood and Green Glue (or equivalent)
__________________
Next stop: Margaritaville
Some of Cal's stuff | Cal Weldon Consulting
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 02:32 PM   #6
jrenkin is offline jrenkin  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver, Colorado
Don't forget about who will hear the thumping from the other side...
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 03:52 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
5th element's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: England
If this is only for smoothing then technically two independent subs, in different locations would give you better results. The subs only need to extend as low as the room has room modes too, so absolute extension isn't required. If you are mainly doing this to get more 20Hz output though, and smoothing is just a nice benefit, then by all means go with the monster in the wall.

Perhaps the wall sub would end up being the main sub, with your other two being used as fillers.
__________________
What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz!
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 08:55 PM   #8
djn is offline djn  United States
diyAudio Member
 
djn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Waterford Michigan
Thanks all. I have two very good subs up in the front corners behind the speakers. I just happen to have these two sub drivers, an amp, 30 foot ICs and a cavity in the wall. I don't do HT and I don't have much pipe organ so going down really really low is not an issue. I just like to have good solid bass down to 30hz or so and want to be able to sit anywhere in the room and have the same output.

SO why do people brace the crap out of cabs???? is it because they are in the room and will cause cancellation if they can resonate?
__________________
My "Art" website http://home.comcast.net/~djnagle/site/
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th November 2012, 02:16 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
Because people don't normally build 77cf boxes. Smaller enclosures have more stress/pressure.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th November 2012, 02:46 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
^? The larger, unbraced panels will flex more than a shorter panel
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need HELP! Speaker cone stuck stiff? phillfyspoon Multi-Way 20 19th November 2013 01:27 AM
Why are boxes stiff but cones not? bentoronto Subwoofers 20 24th October 2011 04:28 AM
Stiff Woofer? Bobby Dipole Multi-Way 8 24th December 2010 05:44 AM
stiff anulus no gas Multi-Way 1 17th October 2010 04:21 AM
Just discovered stiff, dead material for cabinets hardrider Multi-Way 116 1st May 2006 01:42 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:49 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2