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mikemarion 14th November 2012 12:42 AM

Peerless 830668 10"s bi-amped music only system
Hi All-

I've been lurking for quite awhile but this is my first post here.

I bought a pair of Peerless 830668 10" subs for my bi-amped home audio (music only) rig.

I am replacing a pair of 15" PA speakers (with the tweeters unplugged) crossed at 125hz or so with the Rane MX22 active x-over.... so, I think fidelity should improve.

In the past I have built ported enclosures, but as this is a music only system I'm thinking of going sealed.

The amp driving the subs is a Soundcraftsmen S860 that does 205 at 8 ohms.

The box that seems to fit the space comes out to be 1.76 cu ft (not figuring for driver displacement). At 22 inches tall, it is 3 inches shorter than the current subs. I think that is ok, since I angle up the speakers. I could make the tweeters ear level but the WAF will suffer.

I listen to electronic music, 80s, techno... so, I don't think I need to go down to 20hz. (i like a bit of boom and a "popular sound")

I solicit your feedback on:
-Enclosure type (sealed vs. ported)
-Volume of the enclosure
-Tweeter angle vs. level

Thanks in advance!

Here are the current plans:

This is how the system looks currently:

Electronics (close up):

The satellite speaker build:

42l sample box:

wintermute 14th November 2012 01:23 AM

Hi Mike and welcome :) If you haven't already done so I would suggest downloading one of the sim programs and putting the T/S specs of the woofers into it and looking at what you get with sealed/vented.

You have a fair amount of power available so running sealed with a Linkwitz transform may be an option.

I personally use unibox for modelling (needs microsoft excell) a lot of people use winisdpro which is a standalone app.

I'm not experienced with using tilt rather than height to get tweeters essenitally "on axis" at the listening position (mine are at ear height when seated). I would think the main trade off with tilting up would be changes to ceiling bounce (which may work out well) floor bounce would I guess be reduced.


mikemarion 14th November 2012 03:10 AM

Thanks Tony.

I have used WinISDPro Alpha before. So, I'll try that.

Here is the driver T/S using the specs from Madisound:

Here are two plots. The yellow line is the default (unacceptably large at 6.7 cu ft) and then my desired size (in green) at 1.75 cu ft. F3 is 44.3Hz:

So, this backs up what I've seen online... The question is: Will I be happy with a speaker with an F3 of 44Hz or should I look at a ported design?

Drew Eckhardt 14th November 2012 03:30 AM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by mikemarion (Post 3240795)
So, this backs up what I've seen online... The question is: Will I be happy with a speaker with an F3 of 44Hz or should I look at a ported design?

You should loose your fear of Linkwitz transforms and gain the ability to pick box size and extension mostly independently where box size can be used as a tool to make the amplifier clip before the driver bottoms.

Ex: Linkwitz Pluto+. Peerless 830668, .5 cubic feet, second order high pass response with F = 20Hz, Q = .5, F3 = 30Hz.

Pluto + subwoofer

mikemarion 14th November 2012 09:29 PM

I have the DEQ2496 that has five band of parametric equalization available... would that work to provide the the necessary subwoofer equalization so that I can avoid the Linkwitz transforms that I am afraid of.

mikemarion 17th November 2012 01:47 PM

The design goals that won out were:
(1) I am building a speaker stand as well as a sub
(2) The 3/4 MFD I purchased was cut roughly into quarters
(3) I only want to measure to a 1/4" and then use a router to clean up the edges once assembled

Here are the plans:

I won't start cutting until later today or tomorrow so feedback is still appreciated.

mikemarion 18th November 2012 02:58 PM

Yesterday I cut all the panels. Starting assembly today.

The screws you see are all internal, just so I didn't have to clamp the glue blocks in place while they dry.


mikemarion 18th November 2012 10:47 PM

I bought a 50oz pack of POLY-FIL at Walmart to stuff the speaker enclosures. Any guess how much I should use?

Here is the progress:

mikemarion 19th November 2012 03:05 PM

Online I see people recommend stuffing with .5 to 1.5 pounds per cu ft.
If I use all 50oz that I bought I am at about .8 or .9 pounds per cu ft.

Tonight I can clean up the edges with the router and sand the enclosure.

Here us is what it looks like now:

wintermute 19th November 2012 07:15 PM

Hi Milke are you going to put any cross bracing in there? You will get panel resonsonces with a box that big without something tying opposite sides together :)

On the stuffing, there is an active thread at the moment in multiway discussing that very point :)


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