Peerless 830668 10"s bi-amped music only system - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 19th November 2012, 07:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wintermute View Post
Hi Milke are you going to put any cross bracing in there? You will get panel resonsonces with a box that big without something tying opposite sides together
Nope. The box is glued together with no shelf brace. I used boxnotes to calculate resonances and I though there was no resonance below 300hz. I will run it through boxnotes again and check.

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On the stuffing, there is an active thread at the moment in multiway discussing that very point
Awesome. I guess I should have checked here first.

Thanks Tony, I appreciate the feedback!
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Old 20th November 2012, 01:00 AM   #12
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ok I forgot about this being a sub, what frequency are you going to run it up too? You might still need to consider harmonics, as I haven't ever done a box that is purely a sub I've not ever thought about that..

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Old 20th November 2012, 01:11 AM   #13
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ok I forgot about this being a sub, what frequency are you going to run it up too? You might still need to consider harmonics, as I haven't ever done a box that is purely a sub I've not ever thought about that.
The old sub was crossed at 125hz @ 24 db/oct.

Almost done! Installing the 2nd driver.... photos soon.
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Old 20th November 2012, 01:33 AM   #14
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First impressions...

1. Lower efficiency- had to turn down the amp that runs the tops.
2. Less boomy

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Old 22nd November 2012, 02:43 AM   #15
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Well, I am a bit disappointed. I find myself playing the system much louder trying to get the same effect.

So, I hooked up the old crappy 15" woofers again and I prefer them (much warmer at the 100hz region). Sure, the Peerless drivers are more probably way more accurate but far less fun.

I might try a pair of Dayton Audio 10" Titanic Mk III that I own in these enclosures.
Dayton Audio TIT280C-4 10" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-414

I'll probably run the T/S parameters through Win ISD Pro Alpha... since it is quire a bit of work to pull the Dayton drivers from the HT sub and bedroom system sub. Then again modeling only goes so far and since no wood needs to be cut, swapping drivers is probably the most definitive test.

The other alternative is to remove some of the stuffing or even port these enclosures... but the part I am missing seems to be in the upper bass.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 03:18 AM   #16
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nevermind.

I pull all the stuffing out of the speakers and they sound a million times better.

I might add some back, maybe not.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 06:09 AM   #17
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Interesting, I had a similar experience with my 5" drivers stuffing (possibly over stuffing) tended to kill the sound.

another thought as well, Is the gain on your sub amp the same as the gain on your other amp? forget about the levels you are setting with the crossover, if the gain on the sub amp is lower than on the main amp when you turn it up your bass will get weaker... if you set it at lower levels.

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Old 22nd November 2012, 11:42 AM   #18
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nevermind.

I pull all the stuffing out of the speakers and they sound a million times better.

I might add some back, maybe not.
Going Linkwitz route is much better. DEQ allows sufficient control to smooth out and extend bass as desired. Box you are using is too big and too light to avoid panel resonances.

Do you have measurements of results?

Regards,

Andrew
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Old 22nd November 2012, 02:45 PM   #19
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I listen to electronic music, 80s, techno... so, I don't think I need to go down to 20hz. (i like a bit of boom and a "popular sound")
I haven't tried the 830668 but my guess is that being a subwoofer, it is probably more optimized for the lower frequencies like in the 30-40Hz region. Great for movies but I find such drivers unsuitable for music. There's no punch and definition in the midbass.

For music, my preference is to use a woofer instead of a subwoofer. With the right woofer, it's possible to achieve a good balance between the low bass (40-50Hz) and the midbass (90-200Hz).

One such woofer is the 8" Usher 8137A. I have it in a 25L 3-way ported box. Very dynamic, punchy bass. If you prefer 10", check out SB Acoustics. I haven't tried them but judging from the specs, they have some models that look promising.

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Mike
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Old 23rd November 2012, 01:09 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by wintermute View Post
Interesting, I had a similar experience with my 5" drivers stuffing (possibly over stuffing) tended to kill the sound.

another thought as well, Is the gain on your sub amp the same as the gain on your other amp? forget about the levels you are setting with the crossover, if the gain on the sub amp is lower than on the main amp when you turn it up your bass will get weaker... if you set it at lower levels.

Tony.
The bass amp does not have input level contols. So, I set the bass level and then bring up the input level on the amp for the tops. The levels seems to track together pretty well.
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