1.5" baffle thick enough for TC Epic 10" with 500W? - diyAudio
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Old 11th November 2012, 02:54 AM   #1
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Default 1.5" baffle thick enough for TC Epic 10" with 500W?

I plan to make a sub enclosure with a 1.5" baffle that will be routed in ~0.65" to allow for a flush mounted Epic 10"...so I will be left with less than 1" of MDF to screw this beast to...will that be enough and is the 1.5" baffle thickness enough?

THX
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Old 11th November 2012, 03:26 AM   #2
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Can't use bolts into threaded inserts?

The thickness isn't the problem it's the MDF itself I wouldn't trust.
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Old 11th November 2012, 03:31 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m R g S r View Post
The thickness isn't the problem it's the MDF itself I wouldn't trust.
MDF is a sucky material for subs. if you use good plywood, no problem.

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Old 11th November 2012, 05:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kooshball View Post
I plan to make a sub enclosure with a 1.5" baffle that will be routed in ~0.65" to allow for a flush mounted Epic 10"...so I will be left with less than 1" of MDF to screw this beast to...will that be enough and is the 1.5" baffle thickness enough?

THX
Depends on the size of the baffle, 3/4" is perfectly adequate for a 12" square with a 10", while a 1.5" unbraced baffle in a refrigerator size cabinet would be floppy.

Why are you planning to flush mount the driver?
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Old 11th November 2012, 06:27 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by weltersys View Post
Depends on the size of the baffle, 3/4" is perfectly adequate for a 12" square with a 10", while a 1.5" unbraced baffle in a refrigerator size cabinet would be floppy.

Why are you planning to flush mount the driver?
Baffle is 1.5" thick, the rest of the components are .75"

I plan to flush mount since I think it will look better.
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Old 12th November 2012, 06:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kooshball View Post
Baffle is 1.5" thick, the rest of the components are .75"

I plan to flush mount since I think it will look better.
I won't argue aesthetic points, but the baffle, presumably having the least area to flex, will not be the weak point, the rest of the .75" components are.

That does not imply that properly braced .75" is inadequate.
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Old 12th November 2012, 06:35 PM   #7
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Even my 8" RS sub makes my 3/4" X 9" X 17" baffle profusely vibrate.
Even with a brace in the middle of it to the back board and it resonates at around 200hz to 250hz.
It sounds really bad with a sine sweep test.
But it is not as noticeable with music playing.

I also used particle board instead of some good plywood as it is very expensive to use.

FWIW

jer
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Old 12th November 2012, 06:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weltersys View Post
I won't argue aesthetic points, but the baffle, presumably having the least area to flex, will not be the weak point, the rest of the .75" components are.

That does not imply that properly braced .75" is inadequate.
There will be lots of 3/4" ply bracing and the sides of the cabinet are curved so that should improve stiffness as well...

Cabinet height is ~18" and will have two braces horizontally from front to back.

I am more concerned with the weight of the magnet pulling the fasteners out of the MDF...that is what was included with the sub so maybe i am over thinking it.
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Old 12th November 2012, 07:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Kooshball View Post
I am more concerned with the weight of the magnet pulling the fasteners out of the MDF...that is what was included with the sub so maybe i am over thinking it.
For home use pull out due to driver weight won't be a problem, but T-nuts would definitely be needed on the road with a heavy driver mounted to MDF.
A drop of glue on the screw tip and head can help prevent spin-out from vibration.

If the fasteners do strip out, you can always add T-nuts later .
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