Hi All, finally settled in the new house and working with a smaller room but still good size. I have two very good subs and all the bits to build two more. I know I have a standing wave at around 250hz so I plan on making good panels with OC703. Most likely 12 of them 2' x 4' x 3".
So I have this thought that I want to explore. I want to go with multiple subs to smooth out the nulls and peaks, BUT.....won't panels do that by absorbing the sound waves???
I can't seem to think this one through.
So I have this thought that I want to explore. I want to go with multiple subs to smooth out the nulls and peaks, BUT.....won't panels do that by absorbing the sound waves???
I can't seem to think this one through.
The one inch 703 panels won't do much below 500 Hz, the 2 inch absorbs some more down to 250 Hz, leaving a dead high end and little LF absorption, which may sound "dead/boingy".
At any rate, the panels will do little in the "sub" 125 Hz range, so don't let them stop you from adding multiple subs.
Art
Attachments
Take a look at this
GIK Acoustics: Room Setup
DIY Bass Traps - kits & Acoustic Panels: Ready Acoustics
Build a Better Bass Trap
Primacoustic Acoustic Solutions
Steven P. Helm: DIY Bass Traps
DIY Tube Traps
Do You DIY? | Acoustimac.com | Acoustic Panels | Acoustic Insulation | Soundproofing
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNGM7sP_Jge6kZ6CnWlZBMSXqv448Q&cad=rja
GIK Acoustics: Room Setup
DIY Bass Traps - kits & Acoustic Panels: Ready Acoustics
Build a Better Bass Trap
Primacoustic Acoustic Solutions
Steven P. Helm: DIY Bass Traps
DIY Tube Traps
Do You DIY? | Acoustimac.com | Acoustic Panels | Acoustic Insulation | Soundproofing
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNGM7sP_Jge6kZ6CnWlZBMSXqv448Q&cad=rja
Hi,
Don't get the room to "dead".
Another reference: http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
I'm attaching the data on OC70x panels.
Regards,
Don't get the room to "dead".
Another reference: http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
I'm attaching the data on OC70x panels.
Regards,
a square room with ceiling height at exactly half the room lengths.....
wow, that's about as bad acoustically as it gets...
You sure it's not 280hz?
OC703 in 6"x48" strips wrapped in acoustic fabric spaced 18" OC on the side walls.
OC703 2' wide floor to ceiling triangular across the back 2 corners for bass traps.
Bookshelves with varying depth books across the back wall to give a bit of 'diffusion'
OC703 2'x4' panels on the front wall directly behind the speakers on each side.
Tow your speakers 'in' about 10-20 degrees, with each speaker slightly different angle/distance from outside wall.
Never listen directly in the middle of the room.
good luck
wow, that's about as bad acoustically as it gets...
You sure it's not 280hz?
OC703 in 6"x48" strips wrapped in acoustic fabric spaced 18" OC on the side walls.
OC703 2' wide floor to ceiling triangular across the back 2 corners for bass traps.
Bookshelves with varying depth books across the back wall to give a bit of 'diffusion'
OC703 2'x4' panels on the front wall directly behind the speakers on each side.
Tow your speakers 'in' about 10-20 degrees, with each speaker slightly different angle/distance from outside wall.
Never listen directly in the middle of the room.
good luck
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at the bottom of this post is that data.
Thanks, that is all good reading.
I would rather do one or the other, but if I have to do both, oh well.
Yep, I know!!! This room is taking some getting use to. My old room was 26' x 34' and designed by Paul Klipsch for the owner who had contracted Paul to consult with him at Ford Motor Company.
Attachments
I don't trust acoustic data below 125hz for absorption.
Bonded acoustic cotton is absorption snake oil... it's really that good, but you have to be willing to go 3.5" thick to use ultratouch.
Don't over deaden your room, or it will go from weird to freaky. That's the magic of 6" wide acoustic strips on the side walls. It kills the standing waves without going dead.
If you have full creative control over the room surfaces (aka, you don't have someone that will overrule you on what you put in the room.....) Poly cylindrical diffusors are magic, and are about 1000 times better than the bookcase solution. You can make a wall "seem" 20' away. 12" home depot concrete tubes, cut into 3 sections, 1x pine endcaps. Spray it with ceiling texture, and then knock the texture down. The knock down texture looks good, and is full reflective. Paint to match your room. Rear wall only. 18-24" OC. If you have no drywall ability, you can usually contract with a drywall company to come in and shoot them. cheaply.
Again, good luck, you have a challenging room.
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Bass traps wont do anything about dips/nulls, and eq probably wont either, the only way to fix that is with multiple subs. Eq will help tame peaks pretty effectively. Bass traps can help with peaks, but you would be better off with multi subs and eq as its much easier to implement. Ringing in the room is what bass traps and acoustic treatments are most effective at reducing, and eq wont really tackle a badly ringing room.
Hi djn,
As jbell pointed out in Post #16 you would be best of to treat the room, and you need to vary between reflective and absorptive areas all around the room. I have made diffusors from 3/8" (cheap) plywood screwed to curved ribs cut from 2x6s and 2x4s (I like the sonotube idea, I would recommend a larger diameter, e.g.: 20".) I filled the back w/ fiberglass, and covered it with burlap (they make nice absorbers too). On the front (convex surface) I used wood stain. I also had them standing on legs so I could move them around easily. They were 3'x8' and 2'x8'. You can always adjust the sizes to fit your room height and decor. Once you get the room sounding the way you like it, you can work with the multiple subs to get the low end "perfect".
Regards,
As jbell pointed out in Post #16 you would be best of to treat the room, and you need to vary between reflective and absorptive areas all around the room. I have made diffusors from 3/8" (cheap) plywood screwed to curved ribs cut from 2x6s and 2x4s (I like the sonotube idea, I would recommend a larger diameter, e.g.: 20".) I filled the back w/ fiberglass, and covered it with burlap (they make nice absorbers too). On the front (convex surface) I used wood stain. I also had them standing on legs so I could move them around easily. They were 3'x8' and 2'x8'. You can always adjust the sizes to fit your room height and decor. Once you get the room sounding the way you like it, you can work with the multiple subs to get the low end "perfect".
Regards,
Yep, it is "my" room so no issues there. BUT. The back wall is currently all shelve needed for LP and such. I can't get rid of that for practical purposes. Acctually, the back wall is divided into 3 parts. There going left to right, there are stair going up 7 steps to the kitchen (trilevel), a door going to the storage area that currently is covered in accoustic foam cut in pyrimad shaps, then a 7' wide space that is resest 2'. That is where the 5' wide Ikea bookshelf is.
I agree about being too dead. I don't like that. I like the idea of 6" strips, I never thought about cutting the 24" panels down and those seemed too wide.
The problem with the corner panels is I effictively don't have corners in the back of the room. I do have two nice corners in the front wall, I don't like the looks of corner panels up there and wish I could do something about that look, but I don't know of an alternative to corners.
Good news on that front, a friend of mine offered me two more good subs so I can add those to the two I have and test the therior out before building two more of my own.
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