Hi,
Post #29: "Should I double the front face?..."
I would, and add at least some bracing. (You don't have to get carried away as I did in this sketch.)
Regards,
From the bracing cutout and the double wall on the left of the enclosure, it looks like that's a Ported cabinet. (Hence the BR naming)
I'm doing a 225L sealed enclosure, braced, double (36mm) front face. So bracing Will look slightly different. I just opened the sub, the thing is a beast! Pics in a few...
Clamped another panel on, everything nice and square!
have yet to cut the bracing or the second front panel...
heavy sub....43 lbs
for size reference. placed the full soda can on the dust cap and the suspension didnt move at all
basket looks very nicely made, cone is super stiff, spider looks nicely and evenly glued on, terminals are nice etc. venting under the magnet looks adequate as well, i think that this sub is a winner for home theater for $250!! i wouldn't feel comfortable using the soft surround for pro sound, and venting looks like it could be a little better for pro sound as well. this is just going by looks thou, no solid evidence that this would be a poor choice for a touring enclosure...
have yet to cut the bracing or the second front panel...
heavy sub....43 lbs
for size reference. placed the full soda can on the dust cap and the suspension didnt move at all
basket looks very nicely made, cone is super stiff, spider looks nicely and evenly glued on, terminals are nice etc. venting under the magnet looks adequate as well, i think that this sub is a winner for home theater for $250!! i wouldn't feel comfortable using the soft surround for pro sound, and venting looks like it could be a little better for pro sound as well. this is just going by looks thou, no solid evidence that this would be a poor choice for a touring enclosure...
Could be a conservative figure? The way The pro speakers have Xmax then xmech figures almost 4x the Xmax..(18sw115 has 14mm Xmax and 60mm xmech peak to peak)
I know HT drivers are usually rated the opposite, they list an absolute Xmax figure and no xmech...
I have a qsc mx1500 bridged it'll do 1500 watts at 4 ohms, but it's only rated for 1000 watts with
"* 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.1% THD, both channels driven" at 8 ohms.
It's a great LF amp for home theater, when you don't have to move it around. It's power supplies are big and bulky, and weigh a ton.
I know HT drivers are usually rated the opposite, they list an absolute Xmax figure and no xmech...
I have a qsc mx1500 bridged it'll do 1500 watts at 4 ohms, but it's only rated for 1000 watts with
"* 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.1% THD, both channels driven" at 8 ohms.
It's a great LF amp for home theater, when you don't have to move it around. It's power supplies are big and bulky, and weigh a ton.
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I have been playing with one of these for a few days. The Xmax is geometric calculation. Overhung motors typically will operate quite a bit past that. The xmech on this driver is a little past 30mm inward where the coil taps the plate. Perhaps even 35 mm. Useful excursion is somewhat more than the Xmax would indicate and 20 mm or so one way is fairly linear and useful. Just keep it under 2" peak to peak and it will be well out of danger.
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