what kind of box should I have? I have a 12 inch DUAL
subwoofer in a fisher stv-6558 box that someone gave to me
It sounds good but the low end bass is almost non existent..
there is a lot of bass at slightly higher frequencies almost too much at 45hz+
but under 40hz the bass just drops out to nothing almost.
is there some kind of box that would be better or have deeper bass for my 12"?
or some kind of box under 50$
I want the box to be ported or some kind of simple t line is there any place i can get one specifically designed for subwoofers?
subwoofer in a fisher stv-6558 box that someone gave to me
It sounds good but the low end bass is almost non existent..
there is a lot of bass at slightly higher frequencies almost too much at 45hz+
but under 40hz the bass just drops out to nothing almost.
is there some kind of box that would be better or have deeper bass for my 12"?
or some kind of box under 50$
I want the box to be ported or some kind of simple t line is there any place i can get one specifically designed for subwoofers?
The ideal box is one that works for you. I prefer sealed subs with low Q as I feel they blend into the room easier. Others want the very maximum bass extension and do ported. My wife would say ideal was not ugly.
You design the box yourself. That is what DIY is all about. $50 will get you enough 3/4 inch plywood to do very well indeed.
Process: You need the T/S parameters for your driver. Published is you are lucky, or measure like we all do.
Then use a simulation tool as no one has a coppy of White's tables from Speaker Builder any more and you don't want to do the math from Dick Small's papers in AES. I use WInISL. Free.
You then can have it do a theoretical perfect box, and play with the size and tuning to see what happens. Then just cut up the plywood and glue it together. Nothing magic, just engineering. T-lines are a very advanced subject and not very useful for subs IMHO. Sealed is easiest and most forgiving, ported offers more tuning options.
What makes you think a different box will make your drivers go lower? The box is not magic, it just enables the driver to do what it was designed to do.
You design the box yourself. That is what DIY is all about. $50 will get you enough 3/4 inch plywood to do very well indeed.
Process: You need the T/S parameters for your driver. Published is you are lucky, or measure like we all do.
Then use a simulation tool as no one has a coppy of White's tables from Speaker Builder any more and you don't want to do the math from Dick Small's papers in AES. I use WInISL. Free.
You then can have it do a theoretical perfect box, and play with the size and tuning to see what happens. Then just cut up the plywood and glue it together. Nothing magic, just engineering. T-lines are a very advanced subject and not very useful for subs IMHO. Sealed is easiest and most forgiving, ported offers more tuning options.
What makes you think a different box will make your drivers go lower? The box is not magic, it just enables the driver to do what it was designed to do.
I have a very weird custom amplifier (home made) and certain frequencies play better in a different box (when i cover the port on my box the subwoofer acts differently and different frequencies play better than others.. and some frequencies are harder for the amplifier to play when i take my hand off of the port) and so I wanted a box where both freqencies play good.
it puts out at least 25-50 watts to power my subwoofer because it easily drives it a full inch or more at certain frequencies.) certain frequencies are harder to play in different boxes
(the amplifier has a harder time driving different frequencies than others in different boxes)
it puts out at least 25-50 watts to power my subwoofer because it easily drives it a full inch or more at certain frequencies.) certain frequencies are harder to play in different boxes
(the amplifier has a harder time driving different frequencies than others in different boxes)
All you are doing is seeing what changes in the box tuning does. I seriously doubt the amp knows the difference. If it does, time to build a new amp.
Seriously, I think you need to do a little background reading to get the basics of what a box does and why. You might also do a little reading on how amps work, or don't. Otherwise you will be chasing magic. Speakers are not magic, they are engineering. What you will learn is if the box does not properly control the driver at their resonance, then it will flop in the breeze at resonance. That is what you are seeing. It is not the amp, it is an incorrectly tuned box and driver system.
Seriously, I think you need to do a little background reading to get the basics of what a box does and why. You might also do a little reading on how amps work, or don't. Otherwise you will be chasing magic. Speakers are not magic, they are engineering. What you will learn is if the box does not properly control the driver at their resonance, then it will flop in the breeze at resonance. That is what you are seeing. It is not the amp, it is an incorrectly tuned box and driver system.
So if you have a model # you can look up its thiele small parameters and design and build a box. If your really wanting to jump into the rabbit hole get the woofer tester from parts express, measure the TS parameters, dump them into a modeling software, winisd eg. And then make sawdust!
rinse and repeat till youve enough boxes to live in or satisfaction plasters a silly grin on your face!
rinse and repeat till youve enough boxes to live in or satisfaction plasters a silly grin on your face!
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