can you spice up a cheap sub ?

[tvrgeek]

The Peerless XXLS drivers are widely available. Mine are the older paper/carbon ones.
They are in just a 60L box made of 3/4 plywood and stuffed with fiberglass and spray can black. You could build them with a hand saw and a bottle of Titebond. There were two published articles on this driver, one was something like "low Q sub" and the other is the "Thor" on Linkwitz's site. These are home music subs.

Now, you say this is for a portable PA system. That could be a totally different use case. EXACTLLY what are you going to use them in? How big a room? Outside? What kind of music/signal? Just PA or are you going to try and pump a piano or upright bass through them? (Actually, if not, then what do you need subs for?). What are the main speakers?

[maxo]

i

Originally Posted by turbodawg

Since you have already bought the sub, try it as is and see how it works. Then try bracing it internally and otherwise enhancing the cabinet. Then consider replacing the woofer.

internal brasing is like the SS15 design ?
brasing will help to prevent the plywood deflection and high volumes ?
and what woofers you suggest for it

i will measure the thickness of the "wood" that came with it
and report back also will remove the driver to see what cheapo thing it is

it will arrive on Wednesday
i get it at my local Guitar center but they ordered as they dont carry it
locally

they tried to sell me a 599 harbinger 15" sub , but i said no

[maxo]

Originally Posted by tvrgeek

The Peerless XXLS drivers are widely available. Mine are the older paper/carbon ones.
They are in just a 60L box made of 3/4 plywood and stuffed with fiberglass and spray can black. You could build them with a hand saw and a bottle of Titebond. There were two published articles on this driver, one was something like "low Q sub" and the other is the "Thor" on Linkwitz's site. These are home music subs.

Now, you say this is for a portable PA system. That could be a totally different use case. EXACTLLY what are you going to use them in? How big a room? Outside? What kind of music/signal? Just PA or are you going to try and pump a piano or upright bass through them? (Actually, if not, then what do you need subs for?). What are the main speakers?

if you post links to the projects i will appreciate it,
i have a crown xls 2000 power amp that , that i will use one channell full range , the other channel for the subs
i will start with one sub and one full range speaker , later i will add another sub and another full range speaker
to load the amp at 4 ohms instead of 8 ohm on a single cab per channel, my full range speaker is an old peaver DS1502 15" cab with a compression horn driver ( 22xt )
so i get the nady 15" sub to augment the low end
i will play in restaurants ( inside ) and homes and also home patios and porchs
and outside decks, i have a trio band, we play with 2 acoustics guitars and piano with a drum machine, on some songs i play the bass with the left hand
so with the drum machine and the bass i want to have some really punchy low end going
if the XLS2000 do well with that setup i plan to get another one and get another 2 subs and full ranges
in the end i will want to have 8 subs to put 4 on each side of the stage and 4 full ranges
for now , i can move with a car, but later i will need to have a truck to load all the stuff

so right now only one sub and one full range

XLS2000 can
The PureBand™ Crossover System provides a variable state Linkwitz-Riley 24dB/octave fi lter allowing you to choose a point
between 50Hz and 3kHz on 1/12th octave centers. The following points are available for choice:
50Hz, 53Hz, 56Hz, 59Hz, 63Hz, 66Hz, 70Hz, 74Hz, 79Hz, 83Hz, 88Hz, 94Hz, 99Hz, 105Hz, 111Hz, 118Hz, 125Hz,
132Hz, 140Hz, 149Hz, 157Hz, 167Hz, 177Hz, 187Hz, 198Hz, 210Hz, 223Hz, 236Hz, 250Hz, 265Hz, 281Hz, 297Hz,
315Hz, 334Hz, 354Hz, 375Hz, 397Hz, 420Hz, 472Hz, 500Hz, 530Hz, 561Hz, 595Hz, 630Hz, 667Hz, 707Hz, 749Hz,
794Hz, 841Hz, 891Hz, 944Hz, 1.00kHz, 1.06kHz, 1.12kHz, 1.19kHz, 1.26kHz, 1.33kHz, 1.41kHz, 1.50kHz, 1.59kHz,
1.68kHz, 1.78kHz, 1.89kHz, 2.00kHz, 2.12kHz, 2.24kHz, 2.38kHz, 2.52kHz, 2.67kHz, 2.83kHz, 3.00kHz

and the watts specs are as follows
Specifications
- Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): < 0.5%
- Intermodulation Distortion (IMD): (60Hz and 7kHz at 4:1), From full rated output to -30dB: <0.3%
- Damping Factor (8 ohm): 10 Hz to 400 Hz: > 200
- Crosstalk (below rated 8 Ohm power): At 1kHz: > 85dB, At 20kHz: >55dB
- Input Impedance (nominal): 20 kOhm balanced, 10 kOhm unbalanced
- Load Impedance: 2 to 8 Ohm per channel in Stereo, 4 to 8 Ohm in Bridge Mono
- AC Line Voltage and Frequency Configurations Available (+/- 10%): 120 VAC 60 Hz, 100 VAC 50/60 Hz, 220 and 240 VAC 50 Hz
- Ventilation: Flow-through ventilation from front to back
- Cooling: Internal heat sinks with forced-air cooling for rapid, uniform heat dissipation
- Air Volume Requirements (per minute per unit): 80.15 ft

Minimum Guaranteed Power (per channel, both channels driven)
- Stereo, 2 ohms: 1050W
- Stereo, 4 ohms: 650W
- Stereo, 8 ohms: 375W
- Bridged mono, 4 ohms: 2100W
- Bridged mono, 8 ohms: 1300W

[NEO Dan]

Maxo,
The Nady is not something I would not buy even for temporary use.
It looks like you have long terms plans for the band/PA so I'd recommend you think in terms of performance and longevity. You can DIY some truly amazing stuff, that if you had to buy as a commercial product would be WAY out of the average budget. If you can't build it, ask and we can find you some help.

[maxo]

Sorry for the duplicate post above ( there is no delete option and i cant edit either )

Hey Neo
Sounds great

i think for now the 18" subs enclosures are out of the plan because i dont have a truck , so 15"s or even 12"s would do
a single 15" or a dual 12" or single

so what would be my options
Thanks Man
Max.

[NEO Dan]

For "acoustic" style live sound JBell's SS15 is probably best bang for the buck/size if you are going to build out to a bass stack.

I went and had a look at the manual for this amp... I don't think I'd use it on subs there is no way to create a bandpass filter to high pass the sub to protect it from over excursion below tuning and then also filter off the highs. Kind of a dumb omission for an amp with modern DSP. The Behringer iNuke DSP series NU3000DSP/NU6000DSP have really good DSP if you can get past the name.

[maxo]

Originally Posted by NEO Dan

For "acoustic" style live sound JBell's SS15 is probably best bang for the buck/size if you are going to build out to a bass stack.

I went and had a look at the manual for this amp... I don't think I'd use it on subs there is no way to create a bandpass filter to high pass the sub to protect it from over excursion below tuning and then also filter off the highs. Kind of a dumb omission for an amp with modern DSP. The Behringer iNuke DSP series NU3000DSP/NU6000DSP have really good DSP if you can get past the name.

Ohhh great so where i can find the stuff for the SS15 sub
i got the xls2000 because it was at a very good price in mint used conditions i get it 240, new they cost 499
and yes you can split in in to high pass low pass , i pasted this from the manual

Crossover Mode
When using the “Crossover Mode”, the amplifi er is confi gured to use a LowPass
Filter on Channel 1 and a HighPass Filter on Channel 2.
Before you get started ensure that you:
1. Connect signal source to Channel 1 only using either the XLR, ¼ Inch, or
RCA connectors.
2. Connect a speaker to each channel output using Speakon®, Banana Plugs,
or bare wire.
Follow these quick steps to confi gure the amplifi er for “Crossover Mode”:
1. Hold the “Mode/Menu” button down for 3 sec until the LCD screen displays
“Amp Mode <More>”.
2. Press the “Mode/Menu” button to begin confi guring the Amp Mode.
3. Press the “Next” button until the LCD screen displays “Input Y”. Now press the “Mode/Menu” button to confi rm.
4. Now press the “Next” button until the LCD screen displays “XOVER” and press the “Mode/Menu” button to confi rm.
5. Now use the “Previous” or “Next” button to select your desired crossover point.
6. Once you have selected your crossover point, press the “Mode/Menu” button to confi rm your selection. The LCD screen should now read “Input Y XOVER”.

only thing is that it dont have the bandpass for the lower section where i can for example say... cut all the crap below 30hz
so i guess i will need to use a minidsp or some pasive box that will do a high pass at 30hz , kind of Subsonic filter

[NEO Dan]

Look for a Behringer MIC2200 it's cheap and the parametric high pass filter can be dialed in to whatever you need.

[NEO Dan]

I see you've already been to JBell's thread

[maxo]

Originally Posted by NEO Dan

Look for a Behringer MIC2200 it's cheap and the parametric high pass filter can be dialed in to whatever you need.

what you think about this thing
PFMOD HP-Sub

but this have a 18db slope so i thinh the cut is more sharp
http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=11 and cuts at 37Hz

this one looks nicer but i think it will cost more
http://www.sound-better.net/Support/...s%20Manual.pdf

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5251...Crossover.html