Multilple Peerless XLS 10" Sub

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I will be coming into at least 4 Peerless XLS 10" subs. Are there any plans available to use 2 of these in a single box for "better" performance? Or in some other way to use more to get more?

Also, I'm a bit intimidated by the idea of equalization. Is there any way I could use the frequency controls on the sub out from my processor to do the job?
 
Multiple drivers in the same box can be arranged to provide decent benefits. The first is to mount one driver on the front and one on the back, this means as one pushes forwards, the other pushes backwards, as the motions are equal but opposite you get force cancellation occurring.

The second is to mount the driver on the rear backwards, that is the magnet faces outside of the box. When doing this you have to wire the rear driver out of phase with the front driver, so that when the driver on the front pushes forwards, the driver on the pack pulls its cone backwards. This is called a push-pull configuration because one driver pushes as the other one pulls and visa versa. What this means is that for every positive wave motion you get the forward motion of one driver and the rearward motion of the other adding together. Then for every negative wave motion the same thing occurs, you get one forward going motion of one cone and the rearward going from the other. This causes even order distortion to cancel out lowering the overall distortion.

So in other words, with two drivers per box, you can mount them on opposite sides for force cancellation and push-pull for even order distortion cancellation. I can't really see any benefit to having more then two per box and would strongly advocate building two subs for stereo subs, rather then having one huge box with 4 drivers in.

EQ isn't particularly scary although implementing it can be a pain if none of the system is modifiable to add in a simple active stage. Most sub plate amps do have a bass boost option so this might be all you really need. If your processor can do this depends entirely on what setup options it has.
 
So in other words, with two drivers per box, you can mount them on opposite sides for force cancellation and push-pull for even order distortion cancellation. I can't really see any benefit to having more then two per box and would strongly advocate building two subs for stereo subs, rather then having one huge box with 4 drivers in.
adding on to this, dual subs help to even out room response such that listener location is not critical. After all one usually does not want to sit their a$$ in one place and listen. Also rooms can tend to have orders of magnitude more of distortion than what the enclosure could be putting out.

Does either of these do anything for deep base response and/or SPL? How does one decide how big a box to use for whatever results
Usually larger drivers tend to go deeper, with slower transient response times - tight and quick bass. You might want to explore for a larger driver sub. I think there are designs, when designed right, can go deep using not so large drivers.

I am currently exploring a sub myself and have been looking at a dual opposed driver in phase config.

Some links that helped me.
Audioholics Home Theater Forums - View Single Post - Subwoofer...Why DIY?
HOW TO.......CHOOSE AND DESIGN THE RIGHT SUBWOOFER BOX. - uk-mkivs
Audio Innovation - by Dan Marx www.danmarx.org
 
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Two drivers in one box are a total waste of the potential advantages of two boxes. ( or 4) You can move the smaller boxes around to even out the rooms issues. The boxes can be smaller so they can still be sturdy but lift-able and are easier to fit into a room.

Pico,
Damping is a matter of the box design, not how many drivers.

If you have 4 drivers, and you want smaller boxes but not more bass, you could do isobaric. I have often wondered, if iso, and the drivers are cone to cone, do you get the advantage of second order distortion cancellation like side by side PP? That may have to be my next test.
 
I only reported what I read on a mag , and the author is a nice one .
I forgot to say that those 2*XLS 10 in push-push in tha box were the final
project of a study on how to DIY a Sunfire style sub . Needless to say the
amplifier should be very muscular , like a 300 W class D from Hypex , and that
should drive very low Z loads .
 
with two speakers each.

A cabinet I have here that works well is a tall-ish box that's designed to sit in the corner with one front facing driver and one side facing one. There's two of these cabinets, 4 drivers total (when they have drivers).
 

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