Finally got my custom splitter cables made up to go from the USB interface (1/4" TRS) to the sub amp (XLR) and eq for the mains (RCA), so all the electonics for the system are setup. Ran the single sub, however, I have no way to combine R/L channels into one output channel, there's no way to do it in the amp. Overall sounds very, very good, quite powerful without overloading anything, clean etc. Box seems to be handling the woofer quite nicely - it's a light box (sitting on a blanket right now), so the whole thing moves/vibrates a bit, but the panels themselves don't really flex. It will be more solid with proper feet and main speaker pole mounted on top of it, but I may consider a way to add a weight on top. The port seems to flow quite well and has only minor chuffing going full tilt at tuning, the air is moving quite quickly for a vent that's equivalent to a 7" pipe.
Ran some sweeps and set a 26hz 8th order high pass based on observed woofer excursion, I'm getting usable response to a bit below 30hz. Max excursion so far in the passband looks to be about 8mm-ish each way, at around 28-30 hz and 45-50hz, so the woofer is not maxed out but neither was the amp, was getting the 3rd indicator light to flash on. Woofer cone got a hair above ambient.
Now I just need to build another box, add a few more braces inside the baffle, mount the grill, internal damping, paint, hardware, get some poles.....and modify the main speakers. So about half way in the build phase, but it should go a bit quicker now because I've pretty much made all design decisions by now.
Ran some sweeps and set a 26hz 8th order high pass based on observed woofer excursion, I'm getting usable response to a bit below 30hz. Max excursion so far in the passband looks to be about 8mm-ish each way, at around 28-30 hz and 45-50hz, so the woofer is not maxed out but neither was the amp, was getting the 3rd indicator light to flash on. Woofer cone got a hair above ambient.
Now I just need to build another box, add a few more braces inside the baffle, mount the grill, internal damping, paint, hardware, get some poles.....and modify the main speakers. So about half way in the build phase, but it should go a bit quicker now because I've pretty much made all design decisions by now.
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rubber baby buggy bumpers
I ended up using 4 rubber feet mounted with 1/4"-20 hurricane nuts.
These McMaster-Carr
I used stock number 8926T21 (the first one listed) mainly because I had 10 of them sitting around.
The sub still vibrates a little but it doesn't make any bad noises from doing so.
Dave
I built a sub that although had a very stiff box it was moving aroung.
I ended up using 4 rubber feet mounted with 1/4"-20 hurricane nuts.
These McMaster-Carr
I used stock number 8926T21 (the first one listed) mainly because I had 10 of them sitting around.
The sub still vibrates a little but it doesn't make any bad noises from doing so.
Dave
I have five penn-elcom F1687 rubber feet for each sub which should be pretty solid, they are 1.5" x .375".
Penn-Elcom F1687 Rubber Cabinet Foot 1-1/2" Dia. x 3/8" H 260-777
I'm also thinking about adding a lip below the slot port that will directly contact the floor. This will provide better floor coupling by not letting sound radiate directly out of the port to under the sub.
Right now I have them paired to some klipsch cf-1's that are pretty much stock except for some added internal bracing. Mains are on top of the subs, roughly physically aligned driver accoustic centers. Sub low pass is first order around 150hz, mains have the bass cut with a parametric EQ set to minimum Q, maximum cut and ~40hz center.
The PA mains are peavey impulse 100 I got NOS off ebay. Have them apart, going to dynamat them internally, add some braces, better stuffing, speakon connectors, seal the baffles etc.
Cool man
please post what you will do with your impulses, i am getting some PR12's from peavey also
and want to do your mods to them
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...ets-improving-internal-bracing-damping-2.html
The stock impulse 100 seem to fall apart quickly as volume increases due to cabinet flex and leaks from the baffle, at lower volume they are great. I'm hoping that with the mods and a high crossover point, they will play clean and loud enough to keep up with the subs.
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Bit more torture testing tonight. Had to pull the klipsch's off the subs because one was getting a really bad vibration in a spike foot around 60-70 hz, I just couldn't get rid of it. Moved the subs, cleaned the wood floor and feet, wiped on a bit of aquanet hairspray to the feet to effectively glue them to the floor. Also blutact'd a 25lb barbell weight on top of each sub. This seems to entirely keep the subs from moving around. Going hard with over 110 db spikes 15 ft away in a modestly sized living room, seems to have pretty good headroom above that. Only very occasionally can I get the 3rd light on the sub amp to flash, excursion seen so far maxes at about 8mm each way. They are VERY loud, and sound VERY clean.
Last night I plugged up the ports with towels and added about 12 db of low end boost with a shelf filter and PEQ in the in dsp on the amp, and watched a movie at moderately loud volume. Very impressive overall, but seemed to be going beyond xmax on some ~20hz thumps. Xmax is 12mm, xmech is around 20-22mm. Plenty satisfying for normal movie watching, enough to rattle everything in my modestly sized living room, but about as hard as I would want to push a pair of these sealed.
I have to say, having the eq and DSP built into the sub amp is a huge bonus, it's quite flexable and easy to work with. I haven't even used the computer software even though it's been installed. For the roughly $50 steet price premium, it's a must.
For a $500 budget sub, you could do a single 15" ref HO in a larger ported box with a bridged nu1000dsp, and have anough left for the materials and cables.
I have to say, having the eq and DSP built into the sub amp is a huge bonus, it's quite flexable and easy to work with. I haven't even used the computer software even though it's been installed. For the roughly $50 steet price premium, it's a must.
For a $500 budget sub, you could do a single 15" ref HO in a larger ported box with a bridged nu1000dsp, and have anough left for the materials and cables.
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There has been some recent discussion of the Danley CS-30 as a pretty well rounded compact sub:
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/danley/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/CS30-Spec-Sheet.pdf
No measurements yet, but I am going to claim that this 15" HO design is 15% smaller, ~30lb lighter, similar sensitivity, lower extension and higher potential output.
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/danley/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/CS30-Spec-Sheet.pdf
No measurements yet, but I am going to claim that this 15" HO design is 15% smaller, ~30lb lighter, similar sensitivity, lower extension and higher potential output.
Thanks! It's party time!
nu6000dsp on the subs and a first gen adcom gfa-555 on the tops. Seems to be pushing the subs to around xmax with 3 lights on semi-solid with some EDM, no idea what sort of power that amounts to, have been meaning to put a DVM on the amp to check volts vs. the level lights.
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