Ultra compact ported 15" Dayton Ref HO

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So I've finally made some good progress on this in the last few days, got the port mounted, the bracing scheme worked out and installed, and the top panel mounted. Could possbly make and mount the baffle tonight.

Ended up with 3"x1/2" braces, extending straight back from the woofer, across the middle of each panel. The top and bottom brace are tied together at the back by a vertical 3-1/2' x 1/2" brace against the back wall which has an angle cutout for the slot port entry. The side braces are tied together by another 3x1/2 that is out from the wall 3-1/2", glued to and crossing the back wall brace. All braces rounded/sanded. May put small 45's in the back wall corners.

Each brace is cut at 45 degree by the baffle to allow space for the woofer, and mounting the woofer will actually screw through baffle into the braces. I will put angled braces inside against the baffle to further reinforce and to catch the other mounting screws.

It's looking exceptionally nice so far. The internal bracing should be very stiff while adding minimal mass and not restricing air flow to the port.

Need to order some hardware and paint. Not sure how I'm going to coat the inside, I was thinking resin, or mastic, and/or sound absorbing coating, dynamat or some sort of combo.

Pics coming soon.
 
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Please Please !!! PICS !!!!

Ok! Hope this helps...

Inside end of the slot port inner wall, has an extra slat of wood for a larger 180 deg round over, picked up this idea from someone making high output slot port boxes with various rounded transitions...

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Port wall mounted, 45 degree angle in place, should make for a reasonably smooth transition. I may bondo or add wood to the 45 to smooth it a bit further...

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Inside of port, minimal braces, still need to add a port brace to the front...

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Back of box without top, cross brace ties the side braces together making one very stiff section, but off the back wall, which will hopefully allow better flow to the port. The panels are very stiff here because the bracing is exceptionally stiff, even though the unsupported panel span is ~8"...

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Box as it sits so far, need to fit baffle. Roundover on port is not glued in yet. Front face is 20x16". You can see where the woofer will screw into the braces. The baffle will be 1/2" ply also, recessed from the port face 1", giving space for a square grille around just the woofer area, the port will have no grille. Will probably do 45 degree bracing behind the baffle that will catch the other mounting screws. Need to internally dampen the box with coating or dynamat, because it certainly has some higher frequency resonances....

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Have yet to decide if the box will be used the way it's shown, or placed on it's side. Will put a pole mount on them to put mains above. Like it's shown would look better, but I'm worried about stability. Will install handles, corners, rubber feet, a grill, duratex paint.

Woofer sitting against braces, screw holes not lined up, gives a good sense of scale....

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So I take it by the lack of comment, everyone is being kind about my modest construction skills, or thinks this is a really bad idea for various reasons.....LOL.

hey so do you painted it already and added a grille to cover the driver ?
added the foam and the subsonic filter ?
or you will drive it very conservative ?
were are the graphs of your design
 
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hey so do you painted it already and added a grille to cover the driver ?
added the foam and the subsonic filter ?
or you will drive it very conservative ?
were are the graphs of your design

Nope, no other progress on the cab so far. Ordered a bunch of stuff today - a second 15" HO ($150 on sale right now!), cabinet hardware, cables, duratex cab paint (white! mains are already white) and acoust-x damping paint, focusrite scarlet 2i2 usb interface/preamp (on sale $109 shipped at b&h!), and a behringer nu6000dsp ($450 at amazon).

On the sub amp, I decided on the nu6000dsp because of the huge amount of power, headroom, and tuning it could provide for the price and weight. Tested at 1700w RMS both channels driven into 4 ohms, it's a beast, see link. For only $100 more than the nu3000dsp model, it provides triple the power, easily one of the best values in pro audio out there. Will use the on board dsp for a 8th order high pass, low pass (1st order?) and PEQ. Should easily drive the pair of subs to xmax+ without clipping.

Behringer inuke NU6000 vs KAM KXD7200 bench tested - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1

The system will be the following:

- Laptop
- Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 USB (will be main volume knob, very good A/D, has mic in)
- Custom TRS to XLR and balanced RCA splitter cable
- xtant p500a parametric eq for tops, balanced rca in. Amazingly clean and well built car audio analog PEQ I've had for many years, have used in home systems and as a headphone amp/eq. Runs off a laptop PS. Will use this to cut the bass sent to the tops (no true high pass for the tops) and of course normal PEQ
- Adcom GFA-555 for tops, had for years, rack mount
- Peavey Impulse 100 tops, modified cabinet, add speakon connectors
- NU6000DSP sub amp
- Pair of 15" HO subs with pole mounts for the mains
- Custom speaker cables, 13g parts express pro audio cable with speakons, spades for the adcom
- Rack cases for the electronics, TBD
- Car amp(s) and SLA batteries for non-AC use, TBD

Overall, this should make for an amazingly loud, bassy, good sounding, and readily transportable house party/light dj setup. I particularly like that the mains and subs will be a major step up from standard pa fare, the A/D will be good quality, and the tops will have a good quality analog chain with no dsp.
 
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Nope, no other progress on the cab so far.
Overall, this should make for an amazingly loud, bassy, good sounding, and readily transportable house party/light dj setup. I particularly like that the mains and subs will be a major step up from standard pa fare, the A/D will be good quality, and the tops will have a good quality analog chain with no dsp.
Cool, is getting all alogn good, hey i see that the impulse are like the same as the
PR line but they used neodymium magnet so they are less heavy
high freq drivers i think is the same on both
not sure

i got a crown drive core XLS 2000
but it only have simple DSP not as nice as the inuke...crown have the xti line
but the price is overkill
next time i will get an inuke dsp or sell this one and get an inuke

keep us posted on the progress of your sub bins

hey so you opted for a more easy design to make than folder horn like the SS15 from Jbell
that are hell difficult to make for woodworking newbies like me :D
 
Cool, is getting all alogn good, hey i see that the impulse are like the same as the
PR line but they used neodymium magnet so they are less heavy
high freq drivers i think is the same on both
not sure

Looks like the PR10 uses an rx14 tweeter while the impulse 100 has a 14xt, both are peavey models of unknown origin. I've heard the pr's use some sort of neo driver, but the spec sheet doesn't confirm that for the PR10. The ~10 year old impluse 100's I have use an eminence labeled woofer that looks exactly like an old style delta-10, you have to assume it is better than what's in a pr10. They both share the same cab. Here is my thread on modding the mains:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...inets-improving-internal-bracing-damping.html
 
Great build, very beefy.
I have my eye on a 6000DSP as well, but not planning to buy in the first weeks... have to build sub first... I even have to draw it first in SketchUp (which gives me a hard time, can't find a way to cut off a corner off the enclosure, anyone? .. please?:eek:)
Looking forward on your build and findings on the Behringer!

- -lurking- -:magnify:
 
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