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Old 18th September 2012, 08:09 PM   #21
OscarS is offline OscarS  United States
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Yup...a HPF at 30 hz doesn't mean that the response starts to get rolled off below 30Hz, it starts happening well above 30Hz for filters with typical slope.

I'm not saying this is the solution to you wanting "chest pounding" bass, but what I am saying is that the combination of tuning frequency and HPF frequency isn't the smartest choice here.
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Old 18th September 2012, 08:18 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by OscarS View Post
Yup...a HPF at 30 hz doesn't mean that the response starts to get rolled off below 30Hz, it starts happening well above 30Hz for filters with typical slope.

I'm not saying this is the solution to you wanting "chest pounding" bass, but what I am saying is that the combination of tuning frequency and HPF frequency isn't the smartest choice here.
Makes sense to me. Damn..

Any remedy you can think of? Increase box frequency, turn off hpf (or is that a big no no), external hpf



I don't need chest pounding, it's just what I expected comparing to what my little BIC 12" put out. As it sits right now, something just seems off... it's hard to describe. It seems generally empty/flat with many songs.

Last edited by bobbobobbo; 18th September 2012 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 18th September 2012, 08:22 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by bobbobobbo View Post
He recommended 30hz or 35hz, with the hpf set at 30hz, I went for the middle.
Your box is already down around 9 dB at 30 Hz, you need a much bigger box to get it flat to Fs. 9 dB is a big difference, 30 Hz sounds less than half as loud when 9 dB down.
A 24 dB Butterworth filter (likely what your amp uses, though the manual does not say) should only be 3 dB down at 30 Hz, and would have little effect at 33-34 Hz, your box Fb.
The filter is not the problem, and even if you had proper DSP, I'd suggest a 29 Hz 24 dB BW filter for use with that Fb, only 1 Hz lower.
Don't turn off the filter when you are playing loud, there is lots of content going down into the low 20s that could cause your speaker to bottom out or tear up the surround or spider.
Tuning the box higher will give you more "chest pound", but less low bass.
The real solution is a bigger box, and if you want around another 6 dB over a bigger BR box, make it a tapped horn.

Art

Last edited by weltersys; 18th September 2012 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 18th September 2012, 08:34 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by weltersys View Post
Your box is already down around 9 dB at 30 Hz, you need a much bigger box to get it flat to Fs. 9 dB is a big difference, 30 Hz sounds less than half as loud when 9 dB down.
A 24 dB Butterworth filter (likely what your amp uses, though the manual does not say) should only be 3 dB down at 30 Hz, and would have little effect at 33-34 Hz, your box Fb.
The filter is not the problem, and even if you had proper DSP, I'd suggest a 29 Hz 24 dB BW filter for use with that Fb, only 1 Hz lower.
Don't turn off the filter when you are playing loud, there is lots of content going down into the low 20s that could cause your speaker to bottom out or tear up the surround or spider.
Tuning the box higher will give you more "chest pound", but less low bass.
The real solution is a bigger box, and if you want around another 6 dB over a bigger BR box, make it a tapped horn.

Art
Got it. Also makes sense. Thanks art. Well that being said... is there an 18" that would model well in this 5.5 cube box you'd recommend? Or anything that would work in 5.5 cubes for a big party sub (I can even retrofit two 12"s/15"s..)

I can still return this driver, yet I don't want to lose/rebuild the box right now.. unless I'm out of luck and have to.

Last edited by bobbobobbo; 18th September 2012 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 18th September 2012, 09:11 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by bobbobobbo View Post
Got it. Also makes sense. Thanks art. Well that being said... is there an 18" that would model well in this 5.5 cube box you'd recommend? Or anything that would work in 5.5 cubes for a big party sub (I can even retrofit two 12"s/15"s..)

I can still return this driver, yet I don't want to lose/rebuild the box right now.. unless I'm out of luck and have to.
Check out the Dayton Reference HO 15" I'm talking about in the other thread I've got going right now. You could either use one and go really low with good output, or 2x and somewhat low with massive output.
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Old 18th September 2012, 09:42 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by turbodawg View Post
Check out the Dayton Reference HO 15" I'm talking about in the other thread I've got going right now. You could either use one and go really low with good output, or 2x and somewhat low with massive output.
Damn... I have an RSS390HF-4 that I still have to return. If only it was the HO. The HF seems to need a massive box...
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Old 18th September 2012, 09:53 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by bobbobobbo View Post
Damn... I have an RSS390HF-4 that I still have to return. If only it was the HO. The HF seems to need a massive box...
I didn't know the difference either until I started looking into them recently. The HO seems quite rugged and capable of high output in small boxes, with very good quality, and good value. They model very different.

Though now that you mention it, you may want to try the HF in your current box, it could turn out well. Model it and see.
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Old 18th September 2012, 10:31 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by turbodawg View Post
I didn't know the difference either until I started looking into them recently. The HO seems quite rugged and capable of high output in small boxes, with very good quality, and good value. They model very different.

Though now that you mention it, you may want to try the HF in your current box, it could turn out well. Model it and see.
Yeah the HO seems nice.. I'll look into using this HF.

I'm not sure what everyone is using to model, WINisd's database is so old, I can barely find anything. Aside from manually entering each driver I want to test.
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Old 18th September 2012, 10:38 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by bobbobobbo View Post
Yeah the HO seems nice.. I'll look into using this HF.

I'm not sure what everyone is using to model, WINisd's database is so old, I can barely find anything. Aside from manually entering each driver I want to test.
Just cut a board and put it over the exisitng baffle to try out the HF. Model it first. Then possibly return it?

You may be able to fit 2 15's going diag across the front if you replace the baffle and remove the slot port, go to tube ports.

Some comments on tube vs slot ports:

Vent Length WinISD - Speakerplans.com Forums
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Old 18th September 2012, 10:53 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by turbodawg View Post
Just cut a board and put it over the exisitng baffle to try out the HF. Model it first. Then possibly return it?

You may be able to fit 2 15's going diag across the front if you replace the baffle and remove the slot port, go to tube ports.

Some comments on tube vs slot ports:

Vent Length WinISD - Speakerplans.com Forums
The slot port is not easily removable... could I place a 15" in the front spot, then a 15" in the rear? Or would that cause some type of cancellation or sound wave issues within.
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