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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I'm after some input on subwoofer box construction for a box I want to be very inert.
The finished product I would like to look something like this: http://www.geocities.com/etude316/audio/wip.html I'm most interesed in the middle version but with an added plinth with a down-firing flared vent which can be plugged. 1. Constrained layer damping - who has used that technique or has comments on its use. In particular I'm after some ideas on what to use as a barrier between the inner and outer boxes 2. Anti-vibration mounting - if the box is not heavy enough to stop the whole box moving (highly likely), then I think I will need anti-vibration mounting to prevent vibration being transferred to the floor. Is this a good idea? Who has attempted this? 3. Materials. To get the curve I'm planning to bend 3mm sheets of MDF and glue them together. The curved part will probably be about 25mm thick with a damping layer in the middle. The flat parts of the box will be probably about 30mm thick. I'm thinking of using materials other than MDF. plywood, masonite, etc Any suggestions, comments, recommendations are welcome thanks in advance cheers, Paul
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Red Spade Audio Blog | Writer for: Hifi Zine S3 Synergy horn + 18" active woofers + T20 horn sub + B&C active surrounds + Custom Acoustic Treatment |
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#2 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Schwyz
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Quote:
b) Hawaphon c) Very High Density Cork (1mm) d) Lead (0.5 to1mm) other materials are: e) Sand (layer of approx. 10mm) f) Pellets (layer of approx. 10mm) excellent layer combinations are (outer to inner layers) 1) Multi-ply Plywood - Hawaphon - Idikell 2) Multi-ply Plywood - High Density Cork - Multi-ply Plywood - Idikell 3) Corian - Idikell Quote:
b) Very High Density Cork (10mm) c) RDC = Resonance Deadening Components, Clearlight Audio layer combinations are: 1) Box - Carbon - Marble - RDC - Floor 2) Box - HD Cork - Marble - RDC - Floor 3) Box - Marble - RDC - Floor Quote:
Datasheets and examples: http://home.tiscalinet.ch/cooltune/P...s/Menhir01.htm advance |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Schwyz
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A very interesting articel in german:
http://www.picosound.de/D_gehmat.htm#Funktion H.D. Harwood & R. Matthews BBC - Factors in the Desgin of Loudspeaker Cabinets: http://www.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/reports/1977-03.pdf advance |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Piestany, Slovakia
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Quote:
It looks like you know a lot about it. I would like to extend my JMLab Electra 905 bookshelf speakers to semi-active 3-way using active x-over at 380Hz and building the 3rd bass section with a driver Focal 11v7511. Enclosure will have about 90 litres, bassreflex tuned to 30Hz and there will be 2 channel power amplifiers on the back wall of every bass enclosure. I plan to use some sandwich material for the enclosure - e.g. 18mmMDF, 4mm cork, 18mm MDF, or to use something like bitumen roof tiles instead of cork. Why do you mention VHD cork? And why just 1mm? Is VHD cork same as floor cork tiles? What about softer wall cork tiles? Is there a chance to have resonancies on higher frequencies in such bass encosure (>1kHz)? Should I apply some damping material such as Idikell to the inner walls? Thanks Daniel |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Schwyz
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4mm MDF // 5mm bitumen roof tile // 22mm MDF // 1mm Cork // 3mm Multi-ply Plywood (the speaker should be fasten to the 22mm MDF layer and also the bracing) or 2 x 5mm Bitumen Roof Tile // 13mm Corian Quote:
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#6 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Then all your box needs to do is not have walls that move from the pressure changes inside the box -- and a low pressure box such as a TL or aperiodic box make this problem easier to tackle. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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