Driver recommendation for home stereo use

[stan]

Hi,
I'm building two subwoofers for home stereo use.

Requirements:
- Play as high as 120Hz (12db/oct) with great quality.
- Very humble SPL.
- Maximum sound quality in terms of transient response and distortion.
- I listen to classical and jazz music, little bass content but distortion is very apparent.

Resources:
- Digital control of the source signal, can produce any filter easily.
- 150W per channel.
- $400-$500 for drivers.
- Two box options: Existing 1.3 cu. ft sealed boxes (preferable) or any size sealed boxes up to 3 cu. ft. if needed.

I am considering the following drivers:
- Vifa NE:
Vifa NE265W-08 10" Subwoofer Speaker 264-1140
- Peerless XLS:
Peerless 830452 10" XLS Subwoofer 264-1108
- Peerless XXLS:
Peerless 835017 12" Aluminum Cone XXLS Subwoofer 264-1114
- TC Sounds 'Epic':
TC Sounds Epic 10" DVC Subwoofer 293-656

Other recommendations are welcome.

I'm considering 10" or 12", I believe 10" will have better chance to fit my existing small boxes.

My questions:
1. What do you think of this arrangement?
2. Which driver is best for my current boxes (1.3 cu. ft.)?
3. Which driver is best for any box at all? (and how big should I make it?)

Thanks!

[jned]

Eminence LAB 12 Professional 12" Subwoofer Speaker 290-570

This is my next project driver, going to try and fit it to my sealed box

[tvrgeek]

I can't say enough good about my Peerless XXLS 12 inch subs. They are the older paper/carbon, but I hear the newer metal are even better. I run 60L sealed. As mine are SUBS, they sit remote from my mains and I cross over at 60 Hz LR4. If you are building a big floor-stander 3 way, they they are one of the few subs that is good to 200 for real, so I would not hesitate to try 120 LR2. If they are remote from the mains, then you will not like that high a crossover at all.

Model them in WinISL and see which do what.

[tb46]

Hi stan,

Post #1: "... Very humble SPL.
- Maximum sound quality in terms of transient response and distortion...."

How about the Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 8"? I might just fit into your 1.3 ft^3 current boxes,or you could get ambitious, and build a sealed dual driver PP box (one driver in the front, and one inverted in the back). Use a Linkwitz transform circuit to flatten and control the bottom end, and you might just surprise yourself.

Regards,

[stan]

I see the new 12" XXLS has nearly double the Qts as 12" XLS, so it's probably not suitable for the small box.

[bjorno]

Originally Posted by stan

I see the new 12" XXLS has nearly double the Qts as 12" XLS, so it's probably not suitable for the small box.

Hi,

If you choose the Peerless 830517 or P830517 driver and use a box volume of 2.2 resp 1.9 Cu.Ft. you will end up with an f-3dB of ~40 Hz and a Qtc of ~0.7.

IMO a far better design targeting SQ would be: The first picture:

If the sub must be a low distortion closed design: I recommend you to consider: The second of pictures.

QUINT | Subwoofer


b

[stan]

Originally Posted by bjorno

Hi,

IMO a far better design targeting SQ would be: The first picture:

b

I don't think my building is earthquake resistant, and I don't have a weapon permit anyway.

[stan]

Thanks all for advice.
I've bought Peerless XLS-12 woofers (830500) in 1.5 cu. ft. sealed boxes.
I find the sub-bass range performance very good, the sound is "tight" and articulate and suitable for classical music.

However I'm unable to achieve my original design goal, high crossover point.
When I cross them at 125hz (LR4), sub-bass output is reduced. It's as if the 125hz signal sucks the life out of them.
Crossing at 100hz (lowest I can go) gives ample sub-bass but doesn't let my mids play as loud as I wanted.

[bjorno]

Originally Posted by stan

Thanks all for advice.
I've bought Peerless XLS-12 woofers (830500) in 1.5 cu. ft. sealed boxes.
I find the sub-bass range performance very good, the sound is "tight" and articulate and suitable for classical music.

However I'm unable to achieve my original design goal, high crossover point.
When I cross them at 125hz (LR4), sub-bass output is reduced. It's as if the 125hz signal sucks the life out of them.
Crossing at 100hz (lowest I can go) gives ample sub-bass but doesn't let my mids play as loud as I wanted.

Hi,

You probably have a simple phase issue.

b

[bjorno]

Originally Posted by bjorno

Hi,

You probably have a simple phase issue.

b

Hi,

Correction: The picture posted in Post #9 is depicting a fictive sub-sub added to the supposed 1.5 cu. Feet. using the Peerless 830500 Driver I thought was more of a mid-bass..

Here-below is the picture I first made and used as a template for the picture here-above:

Sorry for posting in wrong order.

b