Bless,
Im looking to upgrade my set by adding 4 folded horn bass boxes with peavey lowrider or 18" kilomax eminence since i can get them $50-$60 cheaper than PE prices. Which of the two are best for reggae dancehall both clubs and outdoors. I will be driving them with rms 5050 for all 4. All comments welcome. Bless
Im looking to upgrade my set by adding 4 folded horn bass boxes with peavey lowrider or 18" kilomax eminence since i can get them $50-$60 cheaper than PE prices. Which of the two are best for reggae dancehall both clubs and outdoors. I will be driving them with rms 5050 for all 4. All comments welcome. Bless
True, but scoops also have a power handling weakness right at that one note that reggae tends to send to them. A lot of output = a lot of excursion. That was fine when the biggest amp available was a CS800 and anyone on a budget didn't even have those. And RMX5050, OTOH, will result in blown drivers.
Neither of the proposed drivers are the right one for this application. The Kilomax just has too high a Q and will sound line ****. The Lowriders model very well, and sound fine... at low power. In practice they won't withstand the stress of modern amps can produce in horn cabs. In the applications info, PV specifically warns against it.
Neither of the proposed drivers are the right one for this application. The Kilomax just has too high a Q and will sound line ****. The Lowriders model very well, and sound fine... at low power. In practice they won't withstand the stress of modern amps can produce in horn cabs. In the applications info, PV specifically warns against it.
SKI, i've heard some mini scoops with eminence betas and i was supprised with the sound that came out of them, of course there was Rikter scale ensuring the bass was right. So i felt the kilowatts would be much better.
If none of the woofers i mention are not the correct drivers for horn boxes, what do you recommend for reggae.
If none of the woofers i mention are not the correct drivers for horn boxes, what do you recommend for reggae.
I have 2 marathon 2x18 boxes and i dont like them. I dont understand how they work. I have made ceiling dust fall off ceiling and broken a few plates and shakened wine bottles of place, but i want to feel the punch the way i do when i hear other set running scoops and horn boxes. Funny thing happened a while back, my friend had 2 front facing horn boxes loaded with RCFs set at small lounge powered with qsc mx 2000, they sounded great, i set up my marathons the following month using his rack with the mx 2000. I couldn't feel the bass like his but the kitchen and bars had problems they didn't experience with the scoops. i want to redo my set with horn boxes for my bass and use the marathon for mid bass. Any suggestions are welcome
Your 18's probably go lower than the horns, but with less output in the 50-70Hz region. Most horns don't go down spectacularly low, but there are exceptions 
. And all horns have directivity, which means less problems in the kitchen.
As far as which drivers to use - I think you've already figured that one out. RCF and B&C make some killer drivers, but the price of admission is $300-$600. Cheaper drivers are a compromise in one way or another. Omega Pro's run out of excursion. The PV's cones will shred. LAB12/15 overheat. If you do cheap out on drivers you may as well use 15's not 18's, and keep the power down under 500W. 15's tend to be a better match for a 40-50 Hz cutoff horn (scoop, TH, or FLH) and the cones are less fragile. Since you'd be power-handling limited anyway you may as well use what's "best" for the horn.
Using the 18's for mid-bass or low mids is a waste of space. I built front loaded horn mid bass bins (22.5x24x29, same as a 1x18) with Kappa pro 12's that will eat a 2x18 for breakfast above 90 Hz.
. And all horns have directivity, which means less problems in the kitchen.As far as which drivers to use - I think you've already figured that one out. RCF and B&C make some killer drivers, but the price of admission is $300-$600. Cheaper drivers are a compromise in one way or another. Omega Pro's run out of excursion. The PV's cones will shred. LAB12/15 overheat. If you do cheap out on drivers you may as well use 15's not 18's, and keep the power down under 500W. 15's tend to be a better match for a 40-50 Hz cutoff horn (scoop, TH, or FLH) and the cones are less fragile. Since you'd be power-handling limited anyway you may as well use what's "best" for the horn.
Using the 18's for mid-bass or low mids is a waste of space. I built front loaded horn mid bass bins (22.5x24x29, same as a 1x18) with Kappa pro 12's that will eat a 2x18 for breakfast above 90 Hz.
"normal"scoops start to rol off gently@45hz.
excursion minimum is at 37hz so plenty of room to eq the low end(if you got the power and the speaker that can handle that power!)
104db/2.83volt single,110db/2.83 volt with 2 of them.(depeding on driver)
hard to beat.
the question is how much are you willing to spend.
you could always bild some subs with the lowriders and model them in such way that you can upgrade to a better driver in the future.
ive just designed a 30 hz flh for the b&c 18 tbx100.
verry big 48"x48"x 27,5"
excursion minimum is at 37hz so plenty of room to eq the low end(if you got the power and the speaker that can handle that power!)
104db/2.83volt single,110db/2.83 volt with 2 of them.(depeding on driver)
hard to beat.
the question is how much are you willing to spend.
you could always bild some subs with the lowriders and model them in such way that you can upgrade to a better driver in the future.
ive just designed a 30 hz flh for the b&c 18 tbx100.
verry big 48"x48"x 27,5"
Epa, I like your thinking... except how in the heck do you expect to get the driver in and out? I've been thinking of the "next step above the labhorns" for a couple months now. TBX100... SW115.... 30 Hz, 4 feet on a side.. maybe a six-pack. But I'm seriously considering a system with an *external* driver unit - where the driver and compression chambers are one unit, and the horn is separate. I was hoping to stay in 45x45x28 and that seems to be the ONLY way to do it with the need for a 200+ liter rear chamber and a pressure-equalized throat for an 18. Not to mention each piece being lighter which facilitates a vertical stack.
@kid: I don't think EVs are as good - they just haven't kept up. B&C seems to be the ticket these days for new design at these power levels.
@kid: I don't think EVs are as good - they just haven't kept up. B&C seems to be the ticket these days for new design at these power levels.
The boxes at the bottom are the low mids. Just one with only 200 watts will produce one hell of a kick. The unpainted boxes show the detail better but the completed stack is more intimidating
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