It was designed more for movies, I would say 90% of the time
So far it sounds great. I intend to measure the frequency response of the sub + room. As soon as I have the results I will post here.
If you want more photos take a look at.
http://fotos.terra.com.br/album.cgi/451922
The password ("senha" in Portuguese is htforum)
Fabiano
So far it sounds great. I intend to measure the frequency response of the sub + room. As soon as I have the results I will post here.
If you want more photos take a look at.
http://fotos.terra.com.br/album.cgi/451922
The password ("senha" in Portuguese is htforum)
Fabiano
Congratulations Fabiano, fine work.Fabiano said:Yes, it is a down-firing sub ...
... Yes, It does rattle thing!
I'm interested in how you couple the sub to the floor as I make down-firing deep-bass units too.
I find that as there is no real likelihood of backward/forward movement, spikes are not necessary. Therefore, rather than couple to the floor I tend to isolate.
I'm currently using door-stops bolted to the bottom of the bass speakers and these are supported on 'superballs' (childrens' toys). This is a low-cost solution but works well. I don't glue the superballs to the door-stops but tend to just slip them under in situ.
The floor doesn't vibrate as much and this gives a cleaner bass.
Just to repeat though, I recommend this for downward or upward firing subs. With others the results may vary.
Hi Steve.
Very nice speakers you make. I wish I could, someday, listen to one of them.
Interesting. I always have been told that spikes are necessary in downfiring subs. Do you have a simple sketch or a photo of the system you use in your subs?
In my DIY project I did not use real spikes, I used some rounded nuts that act like spikes due to the small contact area. This solution works fine, at least everything else except for the contact points of these nuts and the floor rattles with the low deep frequencies produced by the sub, I guess.....
Fabiano
Very nice speakers you make. I wish I could, someday, listen to one of them.
I find that as there is no real likelihood of backward/forward movement, spikes are not necessary. Therefore, rather than couple to the floor I tend to isolate.
Interesting. I always have been told that spikes are necessary in downfiring subs. Do you have a simple sketch or a photo of the system you use in your subs?
In my DIY project I did not use real spikes, I used some rounded nuts that act like spikes due to the small contact area. This solution works fine, at least everything else except for the contact points of these nuts and the floor rattles with the low deep frequencies produced by the sub, I guess.....
Fabiano
Many thanks Fabiano. Perhaps one day you'll get an opportunity to listen.Fabiano said:Very nice speakers you make. I wish I could, someday, listen to one of them.
I haven't found spikes necessary. They just rattle the floor boards. I've attached an image of the bottom of one Little Awesome which is on top of another one. The same applies when they are on the floor though.Interesting. I always have been told that spikes are necessary in downfiring subs. Do you have a simple sketch or a photo of the system you use in your subs?
Attachments
Thinking about this a little ...
It's cheap enough to try an arrangement like door-stops and superballs. You could just place the door-stops on the floor with the superballs on top and the sub on top of that. I suggest four of these supports.
Then you can listen and compare the sound to your rounded nut supports.
Whichever sounds better to you after a reasonable trial IS better.
PS: One further advantage of the decoupled rather than coupled approach is that there is a reduction in the transmission of bass throughout your house (and sometimes beyond). This may be important if you have young children or others you don't want to disturb.
It's cheap enough to try an arrangement like door-stops and superballs. You could just place the door-stops on the floor with the superballs on top and the sub on top of that. I suggest four of these supports.
Then you can listen and compare the sound to your rounded nut supports.
Whichever sounds better to you after a reasonable trial IS better.
PS: One further advantage of the decoupled rather than coupled approach is that there is a reduction in the transmission of bass throughout your house (and sometimes beyond). This may be important if you have young children or others you don't want to disturb.
-7VI'm currently using door-stops bolted to the bottom of the bass speakers and these are supported on 'superballs' (childrens' toys).
Socks, superballs, just whatever's lying about I suppose. Which reminds me, in your picture you're not wearing socks. I guess we know where they went.
Ouch, you really now how to hurt a guy. Good comment about the socks though. "LOL" as we forum-types say. Actually of course I wasn't allowed to wear shoes when standing on the backdrop in the photo studio.Timn8ter said:Socks, superballs, just whatever's lying about I suppose. Which reminds me, in your picture you're not wearing socks. I guess we know where they went.
I'll use whatever's lying about as long as it works acoustically and looks ok (or is hidden).
I could get items machined from a suitable rubber material with a round indentation to take a superball and a bolt hole through the middle. These would probably cost £5 each (or so). Or ...
I could use door-stops - they're perfect for the job.
Incidentally, the door-stop/superball combo is worth trying as equipment supports too and BTW, this was not my idea. It was given to me by a friend in the States who originally discovered the support properties of superballs when he was called in to steady an electron microscope that wobbled every time a truck went by the road outside. However, using superballs as supports for up/down firing subs was my idea.
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