Sub help - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th July 2012, 09:20 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Merseyside
Default Sub help

I have recently put some excellent component speakers in my campervan.
They are excellent but the base is a bit lacking so I need a sub, buit as I am very stuck for space I was thinking could I make an isobaric sub?
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2012, 05:21 AM   #2
mdocod is offline mdocod  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Black Forest, CO
Send a message via AIM to mdocod
You'll get much better help if you can provide specifics about your space limitation (give dimensions), budget limitation, desired bandwidth and SPL capability.

  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2012, 05:32 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Merseyside
Thanks Eric, I didnt think of that.
Realistically I would be looking to use 6" drivers as I would have to incorporate the sub in to the furniture, band with and SPL capacity sorry I dont know what these are?
I was thinking of buying a set of used speakers for the drive units to keep costs down
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2012, 11:17 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
TBH you'd probably be better off looking at one of the numerous "self-powered" subwoofers available:

Underseat Subwoofer - Car Audio Centre
most of these sound surprisingly good over the bottom octave or two.

Bandwidth is the frequency range you aim it to play 20-60Hz for example
SPL capacity is how loud it needs to go-100dB should suffice (about as loud as most head unit powerd systems will go on factory speakers)

If you are planning on builing your own enclosure you really need to get familiar with a decent bass box design programme-bbpro is a good one.

ISOBARIC used to be common place in car audio, but isn't really needed any more as modern drivers have stronger motors, heavier cones and less distortion-making the benefits of isobaric redundant.

What motor home is it? Have worked on quite a few and could give you some tips. Also what equipment do you have so far?-model numbers please, "Pioneer stereo" leaves me a lot of guess work!
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2012, 01:05 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Merseyside
Thanks for the link I didnt know about those, but a bit out of my price range at the moment, on a very small budget thats why I was thinking of having a go at building some
Its a Mazda Bongo so no room under the front seats
Head unit is Panasonic CQ-c1303NW
Panasonic CQ-C1303NW - Radio / CD / MP3 player - Full-DIN - in-dash - 50 Watts x 4 at Backoffice
Speakers are Blupunct ODC132
Soundmaster Scotland - Blaupunkt odc132 top of the range
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2012, 01:11 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Merseyside
Forgot to say.
Whilst they do sound good I have to turn them up quite a bit would an amp help?
I just have one pair in the front doors at the moment
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2012, 02:06 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Amping the speakers will help the output, it would also allow you to filter the lowest bass frequencies from the drivers-resulting in better SQ in the ranges they are designed to deliver.

The underseat units can be mounted pretty much anywhere, not just under a front seat.

If you plan to go ahead:
4ch amp with the spec you need: In Phase IPX1004 4 channel 1200 watts amplifier - IPX1004 from In Phase
or a cheaper alternative with fixed HPF and LPF points (not ideal, 80Hz too low for your mids and too high for a sub IMO): Kenwood KAC-6405 4 Channel bridgable power amplifier 4/3/2 channel configuration - KAC-6405 from Kenwood

For a subwoofer you'll need to look at 2x 8ohm drivers or a single 4ohm driver to run off ch 3+4 bridged. As said before a single sub will do just as well as isobaric these days, plenty of little 8" on the market, some decent 6.5" too-though you'll probably find these will cost as much if not more than the equivalent 10/12" as economies of scale cannot be ignored.
  Reply With Quote


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:00 PM.

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2017 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2