Best size box for Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hey all.
If anybody has some time can you calculate me the best size box for a Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF. I already own the sub and would like to get as close to QTC .707 as possible. Size of the box doesn't matter and the amp is a 500w BASH.

Here are the specs:
Specifications: • Power handling: 350 watts RMS/600 watts max • VCdia: 2-1/2" • Le: 1.05 mH • Impedance: 4 ohms • Re: 3.3 ohms • Frequency range: 22 - 1,000 Hz • Fs: 26 Hz • Magnet weight: 100 oz. • SPL: 87 dB 2.83 V/1m, 84 dB 1W/1m • Vas: 1.59 cu. ft. • Qms: 3.26 • Qes: 0.51 • Qts: 0.44 • Xmax: 12.3 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 10-1/2", Cutout diameter: 9-1/4", Depth: 5".
Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-460

Thanks in advance!
 
I don't have access to Bass Box Pro anymore. Something like this look good for this driver?
Thanks!

sb.jpg


OR

pb.jpg
 
Last edited:
IMO, The closed box is OK but the ported box would have port severe issues.

I doubt it would be audible. My 10" HT sub is vented at a lower Fb with a smaller diameter, but flared, vent, and you really have to crank it, and be playing ONLY a tone at or near Fb, to hear any noise. Previously I had it tuned to 30 Hz with the same diameter flared vent. Again, no noticeable issues with music.

A TL would be nice, but likely larger than what the vented box calls for.
 
I doubt it would be audible. My 10" HT sub is vented at a lower Fb with a smaller diameter, but flared, vent, and you really have to crank it, and be playing ONLY a tone at or near Fb, to hear any noise. Previously I had it tuned to 30 Hz with the same diameter flared vent. Again, no noticeable issues with music.

A TL would be nice, but likely larger than what the vented box calls for.

Does anybody sell TL boxes ready made?
 
I doubt it would be audible. My 10" HT sub is vented at a lower Fb with a smaller diameter, but flared, vent, and you really have to crank it, and be playing ONLY a tone at or near Fb, to hear any noise. Previously I had it tuned to 30 Hz with the same diameter flared vent. Again, no noticeable issues with music.

A TL would be nice, but likely larger than what the vented box calls for.

Hi Brian,

I guess your BR is a different animal as tuned lower but this one, with the suggested 1:5 port diam./length would IMO sound bad... like many commercial subs or tube-like long ported car-subs Ive heard (when the Car-engine is off) with a distinctive port resonance artifact that only disappears at a low SPL volume.

I find this very annoying but don't mind when distortions 2:nd and 3:rd artefact's appears, with the volume knob turned up( If to loud just turn the volume down when sounding too harsh), and falls within within BER 1, i.e. musically fused.

When port resonances appears outside the passband in Critical Band BER2 or in ~BER 3 at a too high level its always heard separated, ..annoying, IME even at lower listening SPL with Music but may for HT use be blameless.

Here is a simple test anyone can do using a good closed sub box (f3< 40 Hz) XO = 12dB/octave min at 80Hz.. to 120..145Hz 24dB/octave:

Add a 2-3 dB third octave bump(or even a deeper dip) at 60-70 Hz. Play a Recording you are familiar with.

I never hear any difference..if the listening level is at a reasonable SPL. Sound coloration can only be heard when the Peak (dip) is made broadband . If switching over to a design with resonances:

The hear-ability is IME very different when in additional adding a resonance(s) to the in-band bump(s) >~90-100 Hz away(above the limit for a Critical BW):
The ringing tendency remains even if trying to use a steep LPF XO, IME all speakers showing quarter wave resonances can only be cured with aid of adding damping material.

Sound coloring in resonant un-stuffed enclosures is soon occurring as music is dynamic in nature.
The impact from the resonance can pop in and out depending on the probability of energy level of the resonance frequency or caused from other nearby frequencies that are triggering the same phenomenas.

The effect of simple FR amplitude anomalies is much lesser than from pipe resonance(s) and especially when the resonance amplitude decay time is long..as always are for long ports with no sufficient stuffing in the airways path.
To be effective the damping material must reach into the pipe and not only in the main box volume or to be as well damped as TL:s/T-TQWT:s or T-QWP:s are immediately provide an energy sink for sustaining resonances.

Note: The culprit is not the tone itself that if below a certain level would always disappear if having in the enclosure a decay-time-duration
<= the source signal decay).

b :)

PS: Adding simulations to back up my arguments..The OP suggested BR is not a design I would suggest to anyone to build.
 

Attachments

  • 1-Dayton_RSS265HF-4_ported-Bell-box.JPG
    1-Dayton_RSS265HF-4_ported-Bell-box.JPG
    645.8 KB · Views: 524
  • 2-Dayton_RSS265HF-4_Ported _versus_TL.JPG
    2-Dayton_RSS265HF-4_Ported _versus_TL.JPG
    321.1 KB · Views: 314
I was hoping some of the engineers folks on white horses would ride in and design a TL.

If its anything like the TQWTs I built with the $8.00 6.5" woofers....I want one.

The one on sale is 8ohm, okay with me, can bridge an stereo amp.
 
Last edited:
I was hoping some of the engineers folks on white horses would ride in and design a TL.

If its anything like the TQWTs I built with the $8.00 6.5" woofers....I want one.

The one on sale is 8ohm, okay with me, can bridge an stereo amp.

Well, I'm certainly not an engineering type, but I have downloaded myself a copy of Hornresp. I bought myself a pair of RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF drivers a little while ago thinking I would put them both in sealed boxes to smooth out room modes and then build myself a big t-tqwt to cover the bottom octave. I'll probably still do that, but I couldn't help downloading hornresp, just to test the water. Anyways, this is the first t-tqwt I've ever tried designing so I'm sure there are some issues... still looks promising though. 20Hz-80Hz @ 114db without exceeding x-max. 200 watts. I'm open to criticisms from any real engineering types...
 

Attachments

  • Screen shot 2012-07-05 at 8.50.07 AM.png
    Screen shot 2012-07-05 at 8.50.07 AM.png
    16.3 KB · Views: 729
  • Screen shot 2012-07-05 at 8.50.32 AM.png
    Screen shot 2012-07-05 at 8.50.32 AM.png
    16.6 KB · Views: 712
  • Screen shot 2012-07-05 at 8.51.10 AM.png
    Screen shot 2012-07-05 at 8.51.10 AM.png
    14.5 KB · Views: 698
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.