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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bristol
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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How do you get it to be isobaric?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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The depiction appears to be of the push push variety with the bowls connected at the bottom. Push push being a force cancellation strategy would not require the granite...
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Regards, Dan |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bristol
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Yes they would run push pull. If im right in thinking this allows the cabinet size to be half of the recommended size.
My hi fi racks and orb like speakers all sit on granite (kitchen counter savers sm £4 lrg £9) these help to isolate vibrations and give a sturdy base thats cheaper than the oak, really flat and really stable. For £20 on metal spun bowls, £9 granite, £4 spikes and £6 oak with a small sheet of mdf, £45 +/- I think I could be a great sounding and looking enclosure. Looking at the peerless xls 10". Any have any idea how to model this? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bristol
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Ps. This design also only needs two holes cutting in a round piece of mdf. With a good router it could be constructed within a hour or two.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
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Quote:
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/26w-4558t00.pdf |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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"If im right in thinking this allows the cabinet size to be half of the recommended size. "
Sorry, that's not isobaric. The drivers will have to work in whatever size the bowels are. I would run them Push-Pull and use a Linkwitz transform.
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Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author. |
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#8 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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To be isobarik the drivers need to be couple together driving the same volume (with a small coupling cavity between the 2 drivers (ie 2 drivers act as a single compound driver). I can dig out pictures to illustrate if necessary.
I would go push-push over push-pull (cancelling 2nd order without doing anything about 3rd order creates a non-monotonic series of harmonics). Besides, push-pull probably wouldn't fit this configuration of half-spheres. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bristol
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Ok thanks Dave, let me try and be clear, as my understanding seems to be way off.
My goals were to try and design a sub, using two drivers to cancel/dampen each others forces, making a non-vibrating cabinet (within reason). And I believed that you could use two large drivers running in push-pull our isobaric to allow for a far smaller cabinet than if run normally (or a far bigger driver) These bowls could be two separate sealed units, however joining them seemed to make more sense, a larger overall volume of air and the rear pressure form each driver canceled or balanced by the opposite movement of the other, as a passive radiator would work. ![]() I saw these on the Voodoo thread, and thought they looked amazing, just didn't want to have to cut the metal, and thought this would lead to a more interesting design. Am I right in thinking my sub would be omnidirectional? As its not got a baffle but is coming from a small slot. Does anyone know how to model this? |
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#10 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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All subs are omnidirectional.
Isobarik will halve the volume needed for the same box Q, but one has to account for the overhead of the coupling chamber (or live with a magnet sticking out). A smaller coupling chamber is better. ![]() A single pair of drivers in an isobarik cannot be push-push -- well they can, but the complexity & end volume makes the point moot. To do isobarik and push-push you need 4 drivers (top figure). ![]() dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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