Thanks for your replies chaps
I appreciate your points of view.
Bearing that in mind should i cover all internal areas? will the sound be improved further than just lining the face opposite the speaker cone (inverted) or would it be overkill? would it have any detrimental effect on output volume even if it DID improve quality?
From my place of work i can get waste packing foam that seems to be very similar to the stuff used in studios,etc, as sound deadening material, corrugated and two inches thick approx, do you think this could work? if not what sort of thickness would you suggest?
Cheers
Kev.
I appreciate your points of view.
Bearing that in mind should i cover all internal areas? will the sound be improved further than just lining the face opposite the speaker cone (inverted) or would it be overkill? would it have any detrimental effect on output volume even if it DID improve quality?
From my place of work i can get waste packing foam that seems to be very similar to the stuff used in studios,etc, as sound deadening material, corrugated and two inches thick approx, do you think this could work? if not what sort of thickness would you suggest?
Cheers
Kev.
Personally I think it depends on the cabinet dimensions. If the cabinet is small enough compared to the wavelengths that the driver will be reproducing then you're unlikely to get any standing waves forming inside. Stuffing the box is also going to have only a minimal effect on reducing any cabinet wall vibrations. Stuffing the box will however increase the apparent volume of the box and also reduce the effectiveness of any reflex loading should it be present.
Right!
The difference in sound, when using wadding in a bin as opposed to leaving it empty will depend on how large of a bin you are using, in addition to the TS Parameters of the loudspeaker.
If the bin is not large enough to accommodate the loudspeaker to achieve a relatively flat response, the end result is having an oval curvature. Such a curvature tends to offer a good amount of gain over 0 dB, and tends to offer this type of gain within the upper bass (60 – 200 Hz) region. This tends to have the bin ring at frequencies residing above 0 dB.
If the bin is very large the side panels will resonate at certain notes.
Wadding dampens the offending frequencies to achieve a more even response. It reduces the chances of the bin adding it’s own influence to the audio signal.
Some professional manufactures will sacrifice an even response for an uneven response for the sake of more SPL. Considering the amount of SPL can be achieved from an enclosure resonating, it is not surprising some companies will not add wadding to increase their sales.
The material used as a means of damping will offer it’s own characteristics in the end result based on its properties. My experience is more to wards the traditional wadding used when building homes.
I tend to cover all walls except the baffle board due the magnitude of the enclosures I design. You may need to dabble around to find which works best for you under the given conditions.
Thanks to all for your thoughts and explanations.
Cabs contain 15", 8 ohm 375 watt subs. (only cheap and second hand,but dont sound too bad)Do not know any specs I`m afraid. Drivers fire INTO empty chamber (not tapped) (btw what is the correct name for this design) out thru cab-width port at bottom rear,using scoop to push forward. Not sure if its worth lining.
ta
Kev.
Cabs contain 15", 8 ohm 375 watt subs. (only cheap and second hand,but dont sound too bad)Do not know any specs I`m afraid. Drivers fire INTO empty chamber (not tapped) (btw what is the correct name for this design) out thru cab-width port at bottom rear,using scoop to push forward. Not sure if its worth lining.
ta
Kev.
That is a horn - don't line or stuff it. You could put some lining in the sealed chamber if you want.
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