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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Hey there,
I'm looking for a 6.5inch woofer/subwoofer driver at the moment for 3.6L sealed enclosure (with active eq). I have tried TB, Peerless/Tymphany, Wavecor, Monacor and a few others with nothing has fit the bill so far. I was wondering if any of you can recommend a manufacturer I haven't tried yet? Looking for something in the $10-$20 price range (250-1000 of). Stamped steel basket, ferrite magnet, rubber surround, paper cone with fs around 40hz, 85-90db efficiency and decent xmax over 4mm. Nothing special really, just a solid simple driver. Oh, and in 4 ohms! Let me know if you can help! Cheers
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Surely some of you must know of a manufacturer I haven't tried yet?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Aurasound NS6-255-4A 6" Paper Cone Woofer 4 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store
Hi, Fs is irrelevant without specifying Qts and Vas. Real bass sensitivity of the above seems 84dB/W. In 3.6L : (optimum stuffing = 5L)) Q= ~ 1.0, 1 dB peak at 160Hz, F-3dB 100Hz. Some low bass active EQ will definitely be needed. Numbers are consistent with efficiency / box size. It is a bass/mid rather than a sub/bass. Excursion is good but with with a near equal coil / gap length you'll get more distortion than long coil / short gap, but you don't get the hard distortion characteristic the latter has when its overdriven. It might suit. $6.50 each for 90+, very good driver at that price. rgds, sreten. FWIW the 8" version which is a genuine subwoofer works a lot better in the same box, Q= 0.75, - 3dB at 80Hz, with good +/- 5mm linear excursion and a whopping overall excursion capability of well over +/- 10mm. Lower sensitivity though. http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...5-4a-8-woofer/ $15 each for 8+, again very good driver at that price.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow Last edited by sreten; 18th April 2012 at 04:24 PM. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
PE has some other 6.5" speakers that may work for you, but at a higher price. Woofer Selection Guide at Parts Express Tang Band and Peerless would be the likely suspects, but you say those are not what you are looking for. Last edited by weltersys; 18th April 2012 at 04:07 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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sreten: Yes I've looked at that Aura driver, fs is too high. It sims with a Fsc of 143hz. almost 5db down at 60hz from my current favourite
weltersys: We saw those and bought 10.... however they turned out to be rubbish and distort as soon as you drive them with more than 15W. I think the xmax figure is wrong and it is actually 3mm. they are identical looking to a Dayton Audio sub driver with 3mm xmax. I'm currently using the TB W6-1139SA... it does great sub and xmax but the price too high and efficiency too low. Optimal driver I have so far looked at is something like this: Qts: 0.4 Vas: ~18L Fs 39Hz bl 9.1 Sd 131cm2 however xmax is only 3.75mm which limits output. Thanks for the replies!
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Sorry, the Aura driver wasn't 5db down... more like 2.5db. It might be worth trying. What is the xmax?
but yes, perhaps best to state that I'm hoping for an enclosure fs of around 90-100hz and a q of 0.8-1.0
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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"efficiency too low"
Trying to break Hoffman's Iron Law? Good luck. A 2 cu ft 2nd order sealed box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.18% efficient (84.55dB). A 2 cu ft 4th order vented box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.36% efficient (87.56dB). A 2 cu ft 6th order vented box with an F3 of 30hz can only be 0.90% efficient (91.54dB). By my calculations you could get -3dB at 120hz in 3.6L with 90dB/W/1M.
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Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Quote:
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
That sort of driver doesn't have clearly defined Xmax. One of Klippels papers compares a equal coil / gap to a long coil / short gap. The short version is the former produces at lot more distortion up to the latters Xmax, but then the latter is worse above above its Xmax, producing nasty higher order harmonics the former doesn't. FWIW I think it was KEF that showed / argued the area with the most energy demands on the bass is 100Hz to 200Hz. So I think a somewhat higher Fbox than 100Hz would probably help a little regarding battery life. Arguably the less than clean bass, could also be an advantage, I've noticed for valve amplifiers mild distortion makes bass lines easier to follow, YMMV. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi,
For a battery powered (portable) system, forget the bass below ~100Hz. Go for a fairly high Q alignment (~1) so it sounds like there's some bass there, then add an active low cut filter at maybe the -6dB point. Bump in bass response brings efficiency up a little, and the active highpass reduces amplifier demand. Hoffman's Iron Law at work here: high efficiency, bass extension, small size - pick any two. How much amplifier/battery will these be running with? Chris |
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