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-   -   Im looking for some quick/basic subwoofer box design guidelines/ideas. (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/210555-im-looking-some-quick-basic-subwoofer-box-design-guidelines-ideas.html)

60ndown 11th April 2012 01:36 PM

Im looking for some quick/basic subwoofer box design guidelines/ideas.
 
I have 2 (a pair) of these,

Tang Band W6-1139SI 6-1/2" Subwoofer 264-832

id like the smallest box (portable boombox) with deepest and loudest output *optimal* no higher then 41hz.

i tried this and dont really like it because i can bottom the drivers out quite easily

Cerberus

im happy to try sealed/ported bandpass/hybrid... anything

i thought maybe some of you might have an interesting/fun idea ??

sreten 11th April 2012 01:49 PM

Hi,

What sub amplifier are you using ? Does it have a low pass filter ?
If its doesn't that may be your problem. does it have a manual ?

Many commercial HT subs include built in limiting to prevent overload,
unfortunately this is very difficult to provide in a general purpose amplifier.

rgds, sreten.

There is nothing much wrong with the vented box design used.

60ndown 11th April 2012 01:59 PM

im using 2 channels of this via a x-over


4x100W @ 4 Ohm TK2050 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board 320-302

chris661 11th April 2012 03:50 PM

Have you included a high pass filter set to just below port tuning?
This would stop over-excursion as the driver unloads, giving you much more mechanical power handling.

They're currently in a box about as small as it can be to get to 41Hz, unless you wanted to go isobaric (a waste for these drivers - the cabinet is already tiny).

Remember Hoffman's law: Small size, bass extension, efficiency. Pick any two.

Expanding a little: you can never get loud, low bass out of something portable. Ever.

Here's the options:
- get some high efficiency drivers, put them in a small box and make sure it peaks around 80-120Hz. This'll give the impression of having lots of bass, while keeping efficiency (therefore battery life) up.
- use your current drivers in their current alignment, power them with something modest (battery life...), and enjoy the fact that it'll go far, far lower than anything else similar. Won't be that loud, unless you fancy changing batteries every few minutes.
- build something big that's efficient and goes low, but be prepared to add wheels.

Chris

60ndown 11th April 2012 04:08 PM

good point ^

i dont have a SSF on it.

hmm?

might have to give this a shot

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FMOD-cable-2...ht_2210wt_1305

60ndown 11th April 2012 04:17 PM

although im reasonably sure removing the port/s and making the box a little smaller would also solve my issues?

sealed subs are good right ?

sreten 12th April 2012 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 60ndown (Post 2981446)
although im reasonably sure removing the port/s and
making the box a little smaller would also solve my issues?

sealed subs are good right ?

Hi,

Not really but here is something you could try :
Find some porous foam 6mm to 8mm thick, cut to 3 x port
diameter x port length, fold and insert into the port. This will
drop the frequency the driver unloads a lot and can work.

rgds, sreten.

60ndown 12th April 2012 01:56 PM

ill give that ^ a shot

head_unit 14th April 2012 05:19 AM

Probably you are just getting what you can out of those 6.5s. Going sealed wouldn't help unless your ports are tuned higher than you think (check by sweeping/stepping a since wave) or you're playing rare music with a lot of sub-bass.

I'd recommend some kind of a folded (Bill Fitzmaurice) or tapped (Tom Danley) horn.

Can you specify more what you mean by "Boom Box"? 2 Cerberus is not that tiny, unless you mean a hoist-onto-your-shoulder "Ghetto Blaster" :p

Brian Steele 14th April 2012 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 60ndown (Post 2981222)
I have 2 (a pair) of these,

Tang Band W6-1139SI 6-1/2" Subwoofer 264-832

id like the smallest box (portable boombox) with deepest and loudest output *optimal* no higher then 41hz.

i tried this and dont really like it because i can bottom the drivers out quite easily

A 4th order bandpass alignment might address that. I ran into the same problem with a cheap 10" driver I purchased years ago. It would bottom badly in a vented alignment. The sealed chamber of a 4th order BP alignment designed for a few dBs of gain fixed that problem. I did have to give up a little low frequency extension however.


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