hey guys, just built a tubular sub (8 inch sonotube enclosure)..dont ask..lol..anyway, i used a cheap 6.5 in driver for whick i could not find t/s specs,in .3 cu. ft....bass sounds very boomy..and not in a good way..
any suggestions??? fiberfill the inside? carpet outside? (i just painted cardboard tube) i know i'm not gonna get great SQ out of this setup..but it sounds like crap right now, so any help would help...lol..thanks in advance, mike
any suggestions??? fiberfill the inside? carpet outside? (i just painted cardboard tube) i know i'm not gonna get great SQ out of this setup..but it sounds like crap right now, so any help would help...lol..thanks in advance, mike
The length of the tube determines the tuning. If the 8" tube only contains .3 cubic feet, and is open one end, it is tuned quite high.hey guys, just built a tubular sub (8 inch sonotube enclosure)..dont ask..lol..anyway, i used a cheap 6.5 in driver for whick i could not find t/s specs,in .3 cu. ft....bass sounds very boomy..and not in a good way..
If it is closed, it rolls off the bottom, only leaving the "boom".
If ported, the size and length of the port determine the tuning, tuning for the specific driver parameters will result in a box without "boom".
A 6.5" driver could be a sub, a woofer, or a mid, without at least a picture of the driver, no way to know what cabinet size and tuning will give the best bass.
pyramid wx65x in sealed enclosure..not looking for boom.just a tad more punch at the low end..p.s. i can fairly easily decrease internal volume, but not increase it
hey guys, just built a tubular sub (8 inch sonotube enclosure)..dont ask..lol..anyway, i used a cheap 6.5 in driver for whick i could not find t/s specs,in .3 cu. ft....bass sounds very boomy..and not in a good way..
Hi,
FYI:A new invention:Upper-bass ported sub in a 8" cardboard tube:
b
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first let me say that i never said i invented tubular subwoofer, i just like taking the (sometimes to my detriment) road less traveled...and judging from a lot of the posts on these forums i am NOT alone..lol. i mean any idiot can take a mid to high end driver, stick it in a mfr recomended rectangular box and have it sound pretty good, or just bought a bazooka..i was trying to take a $6 driver with most specs unknown (and i'd like to know where you found that info..i couldn't) put in a seldom used enclosure and see if i could get decent sound out..and btw this is a sealed enclosure..so please give some thought to how i can reduce boominess..just want to add a little punch to the bottom end..not rattle anyones fillings..lol as always thanks in advance
first let me say that i never said i invented tubular subwoofer, i just like taking the (sometimes to my detriment) road less traveled...and judging from a lot of the posts on these forums i am NOT alone..lol. i mean any idiot can take a mid to high end driver, stick it in a mfr recomended rectangular box and have it sound pretty good, or just bought a bazooka..i was trying to take a $6 driver with most specs unknown (and i'd like to know where you found that info..i couldn't) put in a seldom used enclosure and see if i could get decent sound out..and btw this is a sealed enclosure..so please give some thought to how i can reduce boominess..just want to add a little punch to the bottom end..not rattle anyones fillings..lol as always thanks in advance
Parts Express has specs online for that one - http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/290-270-pyramid-wx65x-specifications.pdf
With an Fs of 69.5 Hz, a sealed box will only increase the frequency the driver rolls off at.
If your idea of "bottom" is more than a a couple notes below what an acoustic guitar plays, forget trying to get it out of your mid bass speaker, the low B on a bass guitar is 31.5 Hz.
Parts Express has a buyout 6.5” woofer, PN 299-114 for under $10 that works great in small ported or sealed cabinets, or larger tapped horns or reverse tapered TH.
Put a pair in my little travel trailer, they sound great, good response down to 30 Hz.
For an 8" "tube sub" I'd suggest slapping an 8" driver in it, and then using equalization (look up linkwitz transform) to flatten out the bottom end. Use raw amplifier power to overcome the small box size, pick a driver with reputable power handling claims (read: not pyramid or pyle) to do this.
Before doing that, you might try adding a ~2" x 10" port to the current box. The resulting gain in the bottom end might make it sound acceptably natural, but keep in mind that the system is Xmax limited to around 10-15W regardless as it stands currently, an 8" with more Xmax would make for a much better sub in this box..
In the simulation below, the white plot represents very roughly your current maximum SPL across the listening range. The light blue plot represents the maximum SPL if you add a port but you should ignore anything there below 40hz as it would be unloaded, the yellow line represents the maximum SPL if you use this woofer instead: [ Dayton Audio DCS205-4 8" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-200 ].. The 8" dayton sub there delivers about 7X the displacement capabilities and can pretty well and handle the full 150W thermal rating before running out of Xmax in that box size, which makes better use of available box space if you have the available amplification power and a way to EQ it flat.
Eric
Before doing that, you might try adding a ~2" x 10" port to the current box. The resulting gain in the bottom end might make it sound acceptably natural, but keep in mind that the system is Xmax limited to around 10-15W regardless as it stands currently, an 8" with more Xmax would make for a much better sub in this box..
In the simulation below, the white plot represents very roughly your current maximum SPL across the listening range. The light blue plot represents the maximum SPL if you add a port but you should ignore anything there below 40hz as it would be unloaded, the yellow line represents the maximum SPL if you use this woofer instead: [ Dayton Audio DCS205-4 8" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-200 ].. The 8" dayton sub there delivers about 7X the displacement capabilities and can pretty well and handle the full 150W thermal rating before running out of Xmax in that box size, which makes better use of available box space if you have the available amplification power and a way to EQ it flat.
Eric
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