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Old 10th March 2012, 05:19 AM   #1
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tallinn
Exclamation Hard to make choices with DIY subwoofer

Hey guys,

This is my first time posting here (I joined just a bout a week ago )

Anyways, soon I'm going to start my first DIY subwoofer project. I have never done anything like this so I'm very nervous. My dilemma is that I have to choose from a 12 inch ported subwoofer being powered by 300w rms or a 15 inch sealed subwoofer being powered by 500w rms. The drivers that are in question are the Dayton reference HF (12 and 15 inches). This sub will be used 40% for music and 60% HT. The boxes will be 5.4 cu feet for the sealed and 5.7 cubic feet for the ported. THe f3 of the ported is 19 hz and the f3 of the sealed is 30hz. My living room is where the sub is going to be and it is very large and open. I already have a polk audio psw125 (12 inch ported) and that couldn't fill the room with bass properly. Common sense tells me to use the ported because of the crazy f3 but I'm afraid that my speaker building skills aren't sufficient and I will mess it up. However, I will get the wood panels and such cut by someone else because I don't have the tools or skills. Also, I found this tangband subwoofer:

Tang Band WQ-1858 12" Aluminum Subwoofer 264-897

I calculated a f3 of 17 hz in a 5.89 cu feet box but I don't know if this subwoofer has a good SQ. These calculations are all from the diyaudioandvideo calculators. I just got winISD, however, it is hard to understand what I should do. I will play with it and figure out the software soon enough.

(BTW guys I live in europe so will parts express ship here? And will the BASH amps work with the 230v 50hz electric output we have here? if not can i use a transformer?)

What do you guys think? Hopefully soon I'll get to making sketches on google sketch
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Old 10th March 2012, 05:16 PM   #2
epa is offline epa  Netherlands
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for a sub plate-amp in europe try hypex.
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Old 10th March 2012, 05:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epa View Post
for a sub plate-amp in europe try hypex.
Thanks for the recommendation! But, European amplifiers are waaay too expensive compared to what I can get from the states. I'm on a budget of about 500 dollars for the driver and the amplifier. The less, the better
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Old 10th March 2012, 08:12 PM   #4
bjorno is offline bjorno  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diystuff View Post
..Anyways, soon I'm going to start my first DIY subwoofer project... I have never done anything like this so I'm very nervous..This sub will be used 40% for music and 60% HT. I found this tangband subwoofer:

Tang Band WQ-1858 12" Aluminum Subwoofer 264-897

I calculated a f3 of 17 hz in a 5.89 cu feet box but I don't know if this subwoofer has a good SQ. These calculations are all from the diyaudioandvideo calculators. I just got winISD, however, it is hard to understand what I should do. I will play with it and figure out the software soon enough..
Hi,

Here is a suggestion that shouldn't be too difficult to start with as once the dimensions are established stuff it with speaker damping material counted from the closed end leaving~1/3 of the length empty.

b
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Old 14th March 2012, 08:47 AM   #5
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Thanks for the suggestions guys! But I have decided to go with the Dayton Reference HF 12" subwoofer with dual flared 4" ports. I have some graphs from unibox but I can't figure out how to attach images when I post? Anyways, The problem is that from around 25-35 hz the xmax of the driver is passed by about 3mm. The xmax of the driver is 14mm and at around 28 Hz the cone excursion is 17mm. Btw this is calculated using 400w as nominal power but I will be powering this driver with a 300w rms oaudio bash amp. Is this ok or is the excursion too much?
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Old 14th March 2012, 11:03 AM   #6
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well its ony going to pass the xmax when it is on full volume and a tone within that frequency plays. and even 3mm past xmax isnt much of a deal if its just happens in the odd explosion, not exeeding xlim, it should not realy be a issue.

the other option is to raise the tuning frequency, this causes the driver responce to be rolled off sooner to be replaced by the port output sooner. and as woofers always move more the lower they play.. tuning slightly higher will mean it moves less with the same imput. (in theory, but you may end up with 2 boomy higher bass)
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Old 14th March 2012, 04:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaVeInFoRm View Post
the other option is to raise the tuning frequency, this causes the driver responce to be rolled off sooner to be replaced by the port output sooner.
And the speaker will unload (go over Xmax) at a higher frequency also.
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Old 14th March 2012, 04:36 PM   #8
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See, the amp power is 300w rms and probably 600w peak. However, the driver's power handling is 400w rms and 700w max. So what value should I use in Unibox? 300w, 600w, 400w? So you guys are saying that the driver will only unload if the volume is on max? Also, on unibox it gives me three different port lengths and diameters, and like 2 different subwoofer box volumes. Which one should i follow? Standard design or Design by Vb, Fb and Q?
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Old 14th March 2012, 09:54 PM   #9
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for example... if 87db=1watt 97db=10watts 107db=100w 117db=1000w

depends how loud a signal is , the low rumble may be 10w but a explosion may be more. depends how loud you have it
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Old 14th March 2012, 10:20 PM   #10
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diystuff View Post
See, the amp power is 300w rms and probably 600w peak. However, the
driver's power handling is 400w rms and 700w max. So what value should I
use in Unibox? 300w, 600w, 400w? So you guys are saying that the driver will
only unload if the volume is on max? Also, on unibox it gives me three different
port lengths and diameters, and like 2 different subwoofer box volumes.
Which one should i follow? Standard design or Design by Vb, Fb and Q?
Hi,

You should use the amplifier RMS power and rather than using
standard alignments optimise the alignment to your requirements.

Compared to a maximally flat vented alignment I prefer either
reducing box volume for a suggested low tuning frequency,
leaving the tuning frequency the same, or the same box
volume and reducing the vent tuning frequency for a
suggested high tuning frequency, both are valid.

rgds, sreten.

rgds, sreten.
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Last edited by sreten; 14th March 2012 at 10:34 PM.
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