The SPL chart in the second image in my previous post is charted at 250W input, which would be about where both drivers run out of xmax in that particular box size/tuning (see first image).
Here's WinISDs estimation for both Xmax and Pe limited SPL...
Attachments
diystuff,
I've used the Daton 15" and its an awesome driver. This sub is part of a surround system I'm building. It will definitely shake you.
Build details at PaulWanamaker.Wordpress.Com
I've used the Daton 15" and its an awesome driver. This sub is part of a surround system I'm building. It will definitely shake you.
Build details at PaulWanamaker.Wordpress.Com
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Alright guys...I'm staying with the 12 inch Dayton reference. It seems to be better built than the 18 inch dayton and it has better reviews. Now, if I order this driver from amazon, do you think it will arrive here in Europe without any physical damage? I have some relatives in the states and I could possible send them this driver and they could pack it better and then send it to europe. Also, one more question, I will have a 150 liter box for this sub...will it lack in the 'punch'? The f3 will be like 17hz.
I have the dayton 12"HF sitting right in front of me in a 170L box tuned to 15hz and it in no way lacks 'punch'.
I posted my in-room measurements here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/197238-my-little-build.html#post2805528
The port is 20in^2 (~129 cm^2) via. 2.5"X8" opening, 34" Long and has no chuffing issues. Two 4" round ports would give you ~25in^2 so you should be good.
Tuning "ultra low" (below most program material) actually has a lot of benefits.
I have the dayton 12"HF sitting right in front of me in a 170L box tuned to 15hz and it in no way lacks 'punch'.
I posted my in-room measurements here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/197238-my-little-build.html#post2805528
The port is 20in^2 (~129 cm^2) via. 2.5"X8" opening, 34" Long and has no chuffing issues. Two 4" round ports would give you ~25in^2 so you should be good.
Thanks man! And you have a CRAZY build there. The numbers are just wow!
Hopefully by this weekend I will get some calculations and a design on google sketch done.
Eminence LAB-12 (LAB 12) ONLY 149.94 IN STOCK (20 Mar 2012)
BSBP275
Hi, There is more than e-pray, rgds, sreten.
Sure no problem
Driver- Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm High Fidelity Reference Series 295-464
Amp- O Audio - 300W BASH Subwoofer Amplifier
Oaudio ships the amps to basically the whole world.
new driver
hey guys, since i don't live in the states, getting the dayton audio driver will be more expensive than getting plastic surgery I was thinking of this driver: Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
It says it is possible to use this woofer in a high powered sub but what do you guys think? This driver is sold locally and it seems to be my only choice.
I also have a frequency curve of it:
- tuned to 20hz
- tuned to 23hz
is this driver ok? what frequency should i tune the box to?
hey guys, since i don't live in the states, getting the dayton audio driver will be more expensive than getting plastic surgery
I was thinking of this driver: Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and AccessoriesIt says it is possible to use this woofer in a high powered sub but what do you guys think? This driver is sold locally and it seems to be my only choice.
I also have a frequency curve of it:
- tuned to 20hz
- tuned to 23hzis this driver ok? what frequency should i tune the box to?
The W 300 S 4 OHM is more of a woofer than a subwoofer 7mm Xmax is a limiting factor.
If you don't want under 30Hz it would be nice in 150L tuned to 27Hz. Although... you would be limited to 65w. In 300L tuned to 24Hz with a HP filter at 23Hz the F3 is at 27hz Xmax limited to 55w but should get 108db at XO. ( if XO at 80Hz )
If you don't want under 30Hz it would be nice in 150L tuned to 27Hz. Although... you would be limited to 65w. In 300L tuned to 24Hz with a HP filter at 23Hz the F3 is at 27hz Xmax limited to 55w but should get 108db at XO. ( if XO at 80Hz
)
you can get dayton from germany https://www.intertechnik.de/Shop/Loudspeakers/Dayton/Dayton-Subwoofer/1768,en,7053
Thanks for the advice guys! However, the dayton is way too expensive in germany (sorry for being so cheap ). Anyways I have a relative from the states coming to visit me in the summer. And i'm probably gonna get him to bring the driver for me. However, he will check the driver before he brings it to me for defects. He's an elder and he doesnt know much at all about speakers and stuff. So what visible things should I ask him to look for? I know that if the speaker is bent anywhere then that is bad...is there anything else that needs to be checked?
The oaudio bash 300 watt amp will be shipped from the states to me by oaudio the shipping is pretty cheap. The rest of the stuff (port tubes and damping material etc.) will be bought locally. I have finally finished my calculations and the sub size will be 520 mm x 570 mm x 720 mm (width x height x depth). And the subwoofer will include pretty extensive bracing. I will also have 3, 70cm long , 80mm flared ports. I made a google sketch of the enclosure without the bracing and its pretty sick!
). Anyways I have a relative from the states coming to visit me in the summer. And i'm probably gonna get him to bring the driver for me. However, he will check the driver before he brings it to me for defects. He's an elder and he doesnt know much at all about speakers and stuff. So what visible things should I ask him to look for? I know that if the speaker is bent anywhere then that is bad...is there anything else that needs to be checked?The oaudio bash 300 watt amp will be shipped from the states to me by oaudio the shipping is pretty cheap. The rest of the stuff (port tubes and damping material etc.) will be bought locally. I have finally finished my calculations and the sub size will be 520 mm x 570 mm x 720 mm (width x height x depth). And the subwoofer will include pretty extensive bracing. I will also have 3, 70cm long , 80mm flared ports. I made a google sketch of the enclosure without the bracing and its pretty sick!
front baffle
the thickness of the mdf that will be used to make the enclosure is 20mm (0.78 inches) and I want to make the front baffle 30mm(1.18 inches) by adding another 10mm(0.39 inches). Is it better to double up the thickness at the front or is it just fine? I'm gonna flush mount the driver so the 10mm mdf panel will have a larger cutout.
the thickness of the mdf that will be used to make the enclosure is 20mm (0.78 inches) and I want to make the front baffle 30mm(1.18 inches) by adding another 10mm(0.39 inches). Is it better to double up the thickness at the front or is it just fine? I'm gonna flush mount the driver so the 10mm mdf panel will have a larger cutout.
Hi,
Take at look at Monolith+ DF+ and FF+
~ 100L tuned to ~ 20Hz will be good for the LAB12.
rgds, sreten.
Its precursor : http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/Monolith Review.pdf
Take at look at Monolith+ DF+ and FF+
~ 100L tuned to ~ 20Hz will be good for the LAB12.
rgds, sreten.
Its precursor : http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/Monolith Review.pdf
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