Extension Subwoofer for Lowther TP1 - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 22nd February 2012, 01:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tb46 View Post
I once modelled the Lowther TP1 with a Fostex FE206E, and ended up with 112db 1W/1m from about 100-300Hz, the model was ~3dB down @ 75Hz / ~6dB down @55Hz / ~10dB down @49Hz (obviously, this is @ 0.5 x Pi / corner loading). Do you have any measurements?

How low do you want this new sub to go?

Regards,
That's an excellent question. I have some anadotical evidence. I had a pair of Chili Changs that seemed to go lower than the TP1 and I have a Jordan JX92 two way that is ported and definitely doesn't. Your measurements look plausible.

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Originally Posted by GM View Post
This ~132 L net DSL DTS20 concept using the same two 8" TB W8-740P should have enough peak SPL capability and might can be folded up to fit or at least give you a starting point to modify.

GM
Interesting, thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris661 View Post
I don't find the low sensitivity a problem. The Hornresp sims are (IIRC) in half space. Put them against a wall in a room and sensitivity increases somewhat. Even so, I'd advise active crossovers with the option to change the relative levels.
I think I'd rather build and design my own active crossover and spend my energy there. At $350 shipped for a pair of the Insubnia is very hard to pass up. I could spend my resources on the crossover and second amplifier.

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Originally Posted by littlemike View Post
The T-6 is a fair bit larger, and gives up a couple Hz of extension when compared to the Insubnia, but is definitely worthy of mention because of the efficiency. With the Tang Band W8-740C drivers I am using in my T-6s (84 dB/1W), I measured 93 dB at 2.00V, 1 meter, groundplane, from one cabinet, and peak SPLs of over 115 dB at 15% THD as I approached the power handling limits of the driver.

It can be made narrower to properly load a smaller driver, but at 11.75" internal, several 8s and 10s work well in it, and it only takes a single 4X8 sheet of 1/2" ply per cabinet. With a capable 10, bracing would be a good idea, I have not braced any of mine, but I have only built them loaded with 8s so far.
wow, thanks for weighing in! Those do in fact look much better.

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Originally Posted by tb46 View Post
Hi luvdunhill,

Here is a Hornresp model taken from a drawing that fits your space requirements. Drivers are two of the MCM 55-2421 in series. Does that look like something you might be interested in?

Regards,
... as do these!

I think this is something I'd like to revisit after I have a chance to put together my first active crossover. Doing thing on the digital side doesn't really have appeal to me, so I'd like to make something to suit my peculiar setup (balanced preamp delivering lots of volts to a pair of balanced mono First Watt F4 power buffers). I think I'd rather approach this problem again once I have some measurements and have settled on a amp and crossover design. The Insubnia design (and kits) let me more or less check that off the list and go pursue the two other pieces to the puzzle.

Sounds reasonable?
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Old 22nd February 2012, 01:47 PM   #12
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Hi luvdunhill,

"...(balanced preamp delivering lots of volts to a pair of balanced mono First Watt F4 power buffers..."

Would be interesting to see what you come up with for a balanced active subwoofer crossover. Maybe you can post your results here. Personally, I'd just tap the preamp to poweramp connection, and leave the TP-1s alone, I also recommend multiple subwoofers distributed in the room.

Regards,
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Old 15th March 2012, 03:31 AM   #13
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I got the Exodus Anarchy subs built and the crossover at least simulated for 1kHz crossover point and now to make sure it will work for something other than this. So, I have a 6, 12, 18, 24db/octave slopes to work with, I assume I want as steep as possible here. So, assuming 24dB/octave how high could I cross this over? What is a more reasonable value to also try? I'd like to model the active crossover with a few values to make sure it's robust.
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Old 15th March 2012, 04:38 AM   #14
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Old 15th March 2012, 07:47 AM   #15
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I used 24dB/oct filter set for a -6dB point of 80Hz. That way, the peaks further up are suitably attenuated (though the measurements suggest they're not so bad).
You could probably go with lower order slopes, but I'll leave that discussion for people that have tried it.

Chris
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Old 11th June 2012, 09:05 PM   #16
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Hi!

Perhaps the answer to this is to go to the TP1A which paired with DX4 in the PM3 saucepan does not need a sub at all. Bass drums are powerful enough through it to be quite disturbing!

Best wishes

David P
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Old 8th August 2012, 09:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlemike View Post
I've got several other "large" designs that will certainly replace them in the works, but nothing has been built and tested yet.
anything using a 12" driver (or pair of 12" drivers)?

I'm tempted to play with this H-frame design:

Dipole protos

It would be a bonus to use the drivers in a TH as well, down the line.
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Old 9th August 2012, 12:23 AM   #18
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Hi luvdunhill,

The TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer seems to be a very versatile driver:
TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer 293-650 .

Regards,
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Old 6th November 2012, 02:00 PM   #19
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Things are slowly moving along.
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