hi...
I need to build a Subwoofer box for car use. I already have a 10 in sub in hand.
It does well in a vented box of 60L 35Hz tuned for in home use(now using for my computer audio system. Now i want to build another subwoofer box based on this subwoofer driver for my car use
So any advice of what type of box should i use (i am currently driving a car with a small trunk size
.... toyota corolla AE111) ...
Thanks alot ....
I need to build a Subwoofer box for car use. I already have a 10 in sub in hand.
It does well in a vented box of 60L 35Hz tuned for in home use(now using for my computer audio system. Now i want to build another subwoofer box based on this subwoofer driver for my car use
So any advice of what type of box should i use (i am currently driving a car with a small trunk size
.... toyota corolla AE111) ...Thanks alot ....
i didnt really need high spl for this application ...just need maybe 1 sub 10 in is enough .... but just need to consider the box side .... (incase i need to access the spare tire) or need to put in luggage ....
what is the recommended cutoff frequency for sealed subwoofer box for car use ...
what is the recommended cutoff frequency for sealed subwoofer box for car use ...
Sealed boxes usually will yield the most accurate,"musical" bass.
Ported will give you a little more umph. (inaccurate boom)
The best box with a single 10" I ever heard was a bandpass box, kinda a mixture of both.
Harder to build, but IMO best sound vs output. Sounds great, will still vibrate your hair if your into that kinda thing.
Ported will give you a little more umph. (inaccurate boom)
The best box with a single 10" I ever heard was a bandpass box, kinda a mixture of both.
Harder to build, but IMO best sound vs output. Sounds great, will still vibrate your hair if your into that kinda thing.
The box does most of the filtering, although there is not much point on sending higher frequencies unless it simplifies instalation.
If you use a separate sub amp from a "sub out", adjust the gain with that, either in the head unit or on the amp. Set the cut off with the head unit. They sound pretty good with full range bass frequencies. (120,150)
If you use a separate sub amp from a "sub out", adjust the gain with that, either in the head unit or on the amp. Set the cut off with the head unit. They sound pretty good with full range bass frequencies. (120,150)
I always prefer sealed in my various cars and sub setups. There are many factors for designing a car subwoofer system, not as easy as just specifying 4pi X output required etc.
Most of the time the biggest compromise is made in order to get the subwoofer to fit in the location which you want which sounds best yet doesn't take up too much room.
Most of the time the biggest compromise is made in order to get the subwoofer to fit in the location which you want which sounds best yet doesn't take up too much room.
If you just want bass and are concerned about space go for a basic sealed box. Its easy to get right and takes the least amount of space.
If you have tuning capability its like all audio design a bit of skill and a bit of magic. Only you can decide what truly sounds best but it is largely dependent on what your speakers up front can do.
Id say if you dont want localized bass you can tune around 100Hz 80HZ or best 60Hz but you dont want too big of a gap as it can be rather noticeable in this range. For a sealed box you dont have to set the infrasonic filter, but can use it if you want to push a lot of power and want to limit excursion.
Problem with sealed boxes is that distortion sets in fast if you push the volume.
most cars have a peak around 35-45HZ (cabin gain) Some like it some dont...base boost makes it more obvious and its best to set your gains at about 1/2 bass-boost and be careful not to clip the signal.
If you have tuning capability its like all audio design a bit of skill and a bit of magic. Only you can decide what truly sounds best but it is largely dependent on what your speakers up front can do.
Id say if you dont want localized bass you can tune around 100Hz 80HZ or best 60Hz but you dont want too big of a gap as it can be rather noticeable in this range. For a sealed box you dont have to set the infrasonic filter, but can use it if you want to push a lot of power and want to limit excursion.
Problem with sealed boxes is that distortion sets in fast if you push the volume.
most cars have a peak around 35-45HZ (cabin gain) Some like it some dont...base boost makes it more obvious and its best to set your gains at about 1/2 bass-boost and be careful not to clip the signal.
what is your box tuned too? you will likely need to set the infrasonic filter if you go that route. ported boxes are more efficient which might be a good thing with smaller drivers.
Where in MYS are you located? Chances are im not too far off from you.
For yourself a small sealed enclosure should work best. Cabin gain can make a huge difference-F3 of my enlcosure is in the mid 70s, but plays flat to 30Hz with no EQ-and lower if I add some EQ, my box volume is 0.126cf for a 10"-though my car is a BMW mini so a bit smaller than yours. I'm basically using linkwitz transform principles but the car is doing most of the EQ work for me.
As others have said try and cross below 80Hz for reduced localisation-though the car audio fraternity normally will suggest 60 n down
As others have said try and cross below 80Hz for reduced localisation-though the car audio fraternity normally will suggest 60 n down
Finally get the system done (partially). Just because i am too lazy to build a box .... just went to local car accessories shop and get a 10in subwoofer box for RM48.
Went home today assemble everything this evening ... the system hooked up to the woofer out the passive crossover ... simple but i am satisfied with the sound..
the thing left to be done is to install an amplifier for this woofer ....
below are attached pictures of the current system ....
Went home today assemble everything this evening ... the system hooked up to the woofer out the passive crossover ... simple but i am satisfied with the sound..
the thing left to be done is to install an amplifier for this woofer ....
below are attached pictures of the current system ....
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